Are 18 inch rims on my 2012 Tacoma 2.7 liter , OK?

2012 Tacoma Access cab with a 2.7 liter engine just hit 200,000 miles and still running as good as can be. Stock rims went out as soon as I got the truck in 2019 I got 18 inch rims off craigslist and put 265/60R18 tires on it. My truck is always loaded with about 800 lbs of tools spread out over the bed. I like the 18 inch rims because they seem to handle the load and I worry any larger and my engine would strain so I think bigger is heavier and I don't need more weight driving around daily with 1,000 lbs. as it is up and down a steep mountain. My question is am I safe to buy new rims that are 18x8inch 5x114.3 hub everything is stock at the moment and use same tires 265/60R18. Is there a better set up or reason for bigger or smaller rims. I don't know if I'm way off here because Tacoma OEM rims are 15-16 inch? And 4 cylinder motor is weak compared to 6 cylinder.

 

Are you asking if it's okay to run the same size rims and tires that you were already running? People tend to run a smaller rim to have a larger sidewall on the tires for off-road use.

 

yes that's my question, Have I been driving on the wrong size rims all this time? I know I can put on any size I want but for example running 20 inch rims on shorter tires may look awesome and if I had a 6 cylinder truck I would do it. But a 2.7 liter engine with stock suspension and brakes and extra weight always. 2 wheel rear drive and street and Hwy. roads (bad roads). The truck struggles to go fast. Are 18 inch rims a good choice? I'm about to buy new rims, if I hear that 18 is bad because too big or too heavy or stock size is best and to go back to 16 inch then I will consider it but will likely not do it because I want the biggest possible with out causing problems or making the truck slower.

 

Are the 18s heavier than the stock 15s, yes. Enough so to be a problem for the engine or truck, no. Personally I run 20s with no issue, 255/35 low profile tires to keep the stock overall diameter. I've seen no change in MPG or acceleration from a stop light. The 4 banger doesn't exactly move fast in 1st gear anyway.

 

I've been running 18" wheels on my Tacoma's for years. I like the way they look and the way they ride. I happen to think you are leaving a bit on comfort on the table by running 265/60's. My first Tacoma I ran 265/65-18's on stock suspension without any problems. The taller sidewall makes a difference. So much so, that I put a 2" lift on the truck and for the past 80K miles I've been running 265/70-18's (and again with no problems).

 

Wheel size doesn't matter. You can get the same overall tire dimensions with 15", 16", 17", 18", or even 20" wheels by varying the tire size. Your 265/60/18's are almost identical to 265/70/16's or 245/75/16's. All of those are 30.5" tall and both 16" sizes are factory options. The 245/75/16's are the same height, just about 3/4" narrower.

The only difference between 15,16,17,18, or 20" wheels is the amount of rubber between the ground and the bottom of the wheel. Smaller wheels mean more rubber, a softer ride and better performance offroad. Larger wheels mean less rubber, a harsher stiffer ride, but allow you to drive more aggressively on pavement without getting as much lean when cornering.

An 18" wheel will weigh more than a 16" wheel, but a 16" tire will weigh more than an 18" tire. It sort'a evens out.

You won't have any issues with a 30.5" tire since that is what came from the factory. A 31" or 32" tire is still not a problem with the 6 cyl. I don't know about the 4 cyl engine. But once you get to a 33" tire its time to start thinking about re-gearing.

 

THIS HAS BEEN THE MOST INFORMATIVE INFO FROM EVERYONE, I SO MUCH APPRECIATE IT. So now I'm thinking bigger and better. I have everything stock at the moment except for the 18 inch rims I currently have w/ 265/60R18 and thanks for people letting me know they have similar set up is very reassuring. So next upgrade will be some 18 inch rims with same or one size bigger in the 70's size. While doing this upgrade I have a problem of my truck bottoming out. I drive around with 800 lbs. of tools spread out over the entire bed of the truck always. I drive up and down a mountain everyday and recently imposed speed humps invaded our roads everywhere. I hit 8 to 10 or more everyday they are unavoidable and I do what everyone does and speed over them but my front and especially rear suspension hit hard and I feel the dead hit of the failing suspension. First thought was to raise the springs and rear suspension by 2 inches. I never done this before and so looking for some info. or links to what kits I would need to do this. With all the weight I carry around I'm thinking adjustable shocks or struts or whatever it is I need to make the suspension stiffer. I don't want a hard suspension just one that will handle the load going over these damn speed humps with out bottoming out. I want to glide over them like I see 4 wheel drive lifted trucks do. So any help will be appreciated. My truck is 2012 Tacoma Access cab with 2.7 liter rear wheel drive, 200,000 miles all stock suspension and brakes. If I can do my wish list this year and I do plan to do it. It is 1)new suspension, with lift kit. 2)new conversion kit to change drum to disk brakes for the rear. 3)new chrome 18 inch rims with taller tires. About the rims which will be done first (18x8) is what I been looking at. Is this the right size or can I go (18x8.5) or (18x9). The only thing holding me back from going bigger or wider is the weak 2.7 liter engine. Wasn't planned and I resented getting the 4 cylinder instead of the 6 cylinder but now with gas being stupid high, I love my 4 cylinder engine. Thanks everyone for all the feed back, so glad I joined this community of Tacoma owners. I'm getting real useful info. Rims have 5x114.3 bolt pattern.

 

Am I doing this right I hit the "Like" means I like what's said. When I click on "Like" it it turns to "Unlike" . Hope I'm not doing this wrong?

 

"Unlike" means you want to "Unlike" the post, lol.

 

UNLIKE

generally yes the larger wheels will add more rolling weight further from the center of the hub and possibly add some “slowness” to the already slow 2.7, but some of this depends on the tires you’re running, heavy mud tires weigh more than stock too obviously. I’d prefer the smaller wheel and more fire sidewall on mine but it’s personal preference. Planning to paint my stock steelies gold/bronze and upgrade my tires when the current ones wear down.

 

LOL, you wouldn't catch me dead with those fugly rims & tires.

I just left mine stock with slightly taller sidewalls & wider, aggressive treads.

 

Is this a 5 lug or 6 lug? I didn't catch that....... 4wd or 2wd if 6 lug?

Look in your door jamb for the largest OE tire your model came with. That will give you a diameter.

Your best performance will come from a package that mimics that size, which you can experiment with using the tire calculator.

They type of tire and use of truck matter a lot for best performance, and I've missed that other than weight hauled, which was insignificant.

Of course you can up-size anything. Many people do. But it is sometimes for looks, sometimes to support their use of the vehicle.

Our little 2.7s are awesome trucks, but I have no reason to burden mine with too much unsprung weight. I have a 5 lug and did go from 215 75 15 to 235 75 15 and from Dunflops to Michelin Defenders. Rides and handles better with the larger tires, quiet and grippy with the Miches.

 

Why would you put 18”

 

What I'll say first is there are people who are much better sources for information than I would be when it comes to lifts. I did my homework though. I also verified everything I learned with the guys at DownSouth Motorsports. I've taken my truck offroad for work and other "needs" but I am not an offroad enthusiast.

Ninety percent of my driving is on the road. I've enjoyed, and still enjoy some pretty special cars. Everything from classics to luxury choices. For my truck, I wanted a firm, predictable, but compliant and comfortable ride. My setup is ICON on all four corners. I bought nothing fancy but their Stage 2 kit which is coilovers in the front and an Add-a-leaf in the back has given me what I was looking for. The AAL on the backend made a more of a difference than I was expecting (but in a good way). Overall I've been very pleased. I think the Tacoma handles well for what it is. I have basically ~2 inches of lift all around. The truck sits level.

I do think the Michelin 265/70-18's are also a meaningful part of the package. In foul weather, I can go anywhere without worry. Any other time, I enjoy what I have. By the way, I also pulled the interior out, lined the entire cabin with Dynamat Extreme soundproofing. It make a Huge difference

 

Everyone is great for sharing but I need advice for my specific Truck and what I want to do is not all that uncommon. So some advice from people with my same truck and set up. Although some great ideas and usable info from the bigger and more powerful trucks, I need relevant info for my truck so I can get it right with predictable results. I want to get a lift kit 2 inches should do it. But I see there are different kits available offering more and less parts to get it done. I want to do complete lift kit install to cover everything that is essential without unneeded extras so something that I can do that will cover everything for a complete 2 inch lift and then be done with it and it will last for the rest of my trucks life. Let's start with this as my first upgrade from stock set up. And the purpose of this lift is get more clearance on the suspension which is always carrying an extra 800 lbs to 1000 lbs of weight in the truck bed as compared to an empty truck bed. And the road out here are bad and irritating with speed hump on all streets and hwy's . Weight is distributed somewhat evenly over the entire bed as well as the back seat area which also carries tool boxes 50-100 more lbs. So the lift kit should be designed for a 2012 Tacoma Access cab 2.7 liter engine with 200,000 miles on it rear wheel drive with all stock suspension and stock brakes, truck bed is the 6 foot bed with hard bed cover and the heavy load I mentioned, and running 18 inch rims with 265/60R18 tires. I suspect this 2 inch lift for this truck is common for owners looking to upgrade their truck's. I don't know what I need or how much it will cost but $1000 I think would cover it. ( I hope).

 

I need more info. for the 2nd generation lift kits. 3 - 3.5 inch lift seem to be most popular and full kits in this size are abundant. I want to raise front and rear and so far I figured I need coilspring shocks for the front and struts for the back and new leaf springs with the 3 - 3.5 lift. Also the upper control arm for the lift and now what?
In an unrelated upgrade I got my Denso spark plugs and ignition coils today, will install those this weekend. Brakes are also next on the list . plan to do brakes with lift since removing tires anyway.

 

Everyone has their own style they want their truck.

I’m assuming you are never off-roading, and are a trades person who always sees…. Un-finished roads and poor road condition.

Just keep min mind less rubber = Harsher Ride.

If you are on a budget I would advise you keep your lift at maximum 2in.
If you go past 3in things start to get expensive.

• Spacers / Blocks = Cheap - But ride stiff on anything but perfect roads.
you also wear thru your balljoints for some reason.
• 2in Lift - Front Coilovers w/new leaf pack and rear shocks would be the way to go.

However if you never go off-road / FSR and you don’t mind the jarring ride on the gravel lot.

Based on what your use case is and what you explained. I would put in spacer blocks a sumo springs in the rear (to help the load) and call it a day. Save the money on other things.

I’ve had blocks and now I have new coil overs and no I’m keeping the stock UCA I still have my rear leaf blocks.