ARB Air Locker - Install Just Unit or Replace Entire Axle?

An ARB air locker is around $1000-ish by itself. There is a company I found here that will sell me a complete rear axle with the locker already installed. I just have to swap the entire rear axle with the new one (that includes diff and locker), and send them back my old one so they can refurbish it for someone else.

I'm a fairly decent wrench, but I would have to learn the process of installing the locker into my current diff since I've never done anything like it before.

What would be best?

1. Buy just the locker and compressor and study and learn the process of installing it and do it myself? (In other words, it's not that hard).

2. Buy just the locker and compressor and pay a mechanic to install it into my current diff?

3. Go ahead and pay the $1500 and get the entire axle/diff replacement with the locker pre-installed that I can relatively easily swap and save myself the trouble of opening up the diff?

I assume the hire-a-mechanic method would end up costing me the same or more than the $1500 for the full axle swap, but I get to keep the parts I already have on my truck instead of getting someone else's refurbished axle/diff. And like I said, I could tackle the job myself, I just haven't done it before so I don't know how hard it's going to be.

I really would love t hear what you all have to say about this. I have already done my front suspension, but I've been waiting on the rear as I have to decide if I'm going to swap out the axle or not before I start work on the suspension itself.

Wheels and tires are in and waiting, so I kinda want to settle this locker thing before I proceed with those.

 

This is what I did years ago for the front of my old solid-axle 4runner.

I removed the diff from the front axle housing.
Took the diff to a local trusted mechanic who specializes in differentials.
I paid him to install the ARB locker (he obtained the correct locker at a wholesale price)
I picked up the diff with the new locker
I installed the diff back into the axle housing
I fabbed up a home-made electric compressor with regulator to run it.
I installed the switches, and actuator

I could have installed a cheaper 'lunch-box' type locker myself, but the ARB requires the carrier to be removed as well. I wouldn't trust this to anyone but an experienced professional.

 

Order a complete 3rd member from east coast gear supply or the like.

 

That. See. I'm confident with my wrenching, but to a point. I'm not so sure about this carrier thing. I could do more research, but it's really a bit out of my scope of skill at the moment.

Ah, see, that's the company I was talking about. Let me search this "3rd member" thing. I was under the assumption it was the entire axle swapped.

 

Found it: http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/c-62270-assembled-3rds-clamshells.html

Ah, so that's what I'm actually ordering when I do the swamp with ECGS? It's not the entire axle? It sounds like doing that for $1,500 including the locker (+ labor, me or a tech) would be worth it over buying the locker solo and figuring out installation of the whole thing.

So, overall, this is a good option even if you consider your current diff to be well taken care of?

I also wonder if I should consider regearing all in the same shot. I guess I'll find out because my 285/70R16 are going on well before I do locker. I guess I see if if feels like it could use regearing. Thing is I have 4x4 so I would have to do both ends if I want to regear. For now I'll concentrate on a plan for the locker and decide if regearing towards the very end before ordering.

EDIT: According to my configurations on ECGS's page, it looks like the cost of the 3rd member assembly and ARB locker is more like $1595, that's with a $45 solid spacer, no core change. Of course, I would have to add a compressor to that, but that's the case regardless of how I decide to do it.

 

Do you like steep learning curves? If so, do it yourself. That's what I did. Never had a diff out before but I am comfortable working in thousandths of an inch, and I have some inspection tools (and don't mind acquiring more). The front diff is more challenging.

Otherwise, I think the swap is a good way to go. You'll still have plenty to do.

 

Add in the cost of shipping a heavy ass third member.

 

^^^ True. But ground shipping USPS should be alright. Unless it weighs more than 70 pounds. In which case Fedex ground. I'll keep that in mind.

... I looked it up. It's too much for USPS. Would have to be FEDEX ground. The third member itself is around 70 pounds, but at packaging and you're well over 80#

 

Gear installs ain't nothin' to fuck with.

Personally, I like ECGS and their diff-swap program. Go with that.