Anything welding

i haven't used it a ton yet, lots of other things going on..

but i did use it last weekend to build out the suspension mounting points on my trailer.


the triangular pieces in front of the mounts, i wanted to use at least 1/8" x 4", all i had on hand was 1/16" x4. so i cut up a 5" c-channel and used the center section, which is about 3/16" thick, but got me to the 4" flat stock size i needed. it was 5 total cuts with the only waste being the first cut to square up the beginning. being able to almost blindly throw the saw to the 45 degree lock, set my c-channel up with the clamps, and then cut 4 pieces back-to-back with zero scrap between steps, and have a dead-on accurate 0 degree and 45 degree was extremely worthwhile, and saved a ton of time and cutoff wheels-- i used up 2 half-good wheels cutting off the 'legs' of the c-channels. probably would've been close to 4-6 cutoff wheels if i had to cut it all by grinder...

time will tell how long the blade lasts, but so far, i'm very happy with the build quality, and the pivot locking mechanisms. it sets to the angle very precisely, with no wiggle room-- i've got a bad habit of checking it with a carpenters square every time just to be sure, coming from using saws that are either less-nice, or far too worn from use...

i do wish there were a few more options for clamping metal to the saw-- especially cutting at 45 degree's, many of the top-pressure clamping positions fall under the saw working space but important to note here that me being left-handed, i tend to feed the saw from the right to the left. the left side has slightly more clamping options, but i was already in-process, so didn't try rotating the entire metal piece to the other side. it's really just irritating to me that there's more options on one side than the other--i would prefer a saw that has symmetrical clamping options. there might still be a solution that i'm not aware of, but it's not included in the box at the very least, and also would require alteration to my workflow, feeding stock from left to right instead.

i'm extremely happy with the clamps and their grip design. all of them are easy to use one-handed, and large enough to easily tighten with or without gloves, but also not large enough to be cumbersome or feel like they're in the way.

that said, this is also the most i've ever spent on a tool, so my expectations might be slightly skewed. my personal use falls well into the low use category, so most other tools are discounted harbor freight or similar non-brands, which always tend to have lesser quality/sloppier tolerances for a lesser price.

overall, i feel the quality justifies the price point and exclusivity of it. it's a specialized tool that does really well at specialized work, and it does it faster than other metal-cutting options could do it at, outside of a cnc plasma cutting table.

something to consider, and what i did-- if you have the Amazon card, you can get it for 0%-for-12-months through the amazon card. at around $80/month, it helps make the cost a little less painful.

 

Yup it catches and then when it releases it's too fast. I basically used angle iron on one side and another piece I cut previously for the radius as my guide. Def had it too tight on that run. I think if I didn't have the stand off it wouldn't have caught. Maybe I'll try that for a practice run. I guess I am afraid of not being able to keep it too close to the work piece but not further than 1/8".

Yeah I read in the manual that pulling towards me with the tip also angled slightly towards me is the best way to cut.

 

I appreciate the info, I already have cold cut saw I have been using for a few years. I did not know this miter saw existed till seeing your post & was thinking about upgrading due to I do a couple of fairly large projects per year.

I decided to order it along with the stand after signing up for their email & getting 10% off, of course that discount does not apply to either this saw or the stand but now I have decided to buy it because they lured me in with the Great10% off so I ordered on Amazon & got the 5% points on prime card.

I had already finished cutting the parts for the current project but have a couple of small things I am working on so should come in handy.

 

Howdy all, i am looking for a bit of affirmation / guidance on my choice here, i am currently planning on stepping a bit into the welding world. my in-laws were using the tractor when we were out of town and the quick attach plate popped off the fork on one end when he was using it, bending the plates out of plane with one another. Upon research the popular recommendation i see (besides paying the $1700 i was quoted for a new quick attach assembly from kubota) is to cut the bar, get them planar again, and re-weld it. So it's honestly past due for me to invest in a small personal use at home welder. We are currently in Michigan for the forest rally over this weekend, which means we went through Duluth, providing me access to a harbor freight and a Northern Tool i can stop by on the way home. My current plan is the Harbor Freight Vulcan Omnipro 220 with some flux core, a weld mask and some decent gloves. Does this sound reasonable? thank y'all in advance.

 

See if I can beat @Kwikvette here & maybe get a commission

I have never used the Vulcan but for $350.00 less you can get a Primeweld MTS200 with a 3 year warranty, several of us can vouch that they are good welders & a Great company that stands behind their product.

Wire makes a big difference & I have had Fantastic luck with Yeswelder flux core wire I also like the Yeswelder hood LYG-800H both at your local Amazon.

The Vulcan is probably a good welder but anything that cost $1,100 that has a 90 day warranty I have a problem with.

Good luck

 

Ha, good recommendation

I saw the post, but was busy finishing up God of War

 

thank you! I too agree with companies that stand behind their product and would much rather put my money towards such a company. Can't deny the warranty and price! I will go this route. I appreciate your Recommendations and guidance on the matter

 

I welded today.

 

Check that guy for a bar code tattoo..
Those look like machine welds!

 

Just a little welding, no big deal.

Solid flex

 

Lol! Thanks guys. They don't always turn out that way haha

 

Like on these runners lol

 

I made this 4wd last year. It has $6 pneumatic tires from harbor freight and did amazingly well in the snow.

I'm in the process of adding a plow to it.

 

my co-worker uses a vulcan and has no issues. they've always ranked good in most of the reviews i've checked.

the biggest trick with flux core is that it must be ran in reversed polarity. the clamp will go to the positive electrode, and the welding gun lead will be connected to the negative. it's also dirtier, and produces more soot, so more post-welding cleanup is needed. the other trick is that because the flux is within the wire(duh, it's in the name), the wire needs to be heated up to release the flux, which then creates the shielding gas, which allows the weld puddle to do it's thing--quick tacks are basically non-shielded, which can produce porousity which can sometimes be difficult to get rid of.

overall, after personally starting with flux core, and then moving to mig, i've found that mig is far easier and cleaner, with better-looking welds that are easier to track how everything is working. but mig also has more up-front costs..

i suggest getting gloves, and a mask from harbor freight, they'll likely be cheaper, but be sure to price-check. but i would also suggest getting name-brand flux core wire from northern tool, despite the higher price. my experience with harbor freights flux core wire has been sporadic-- some spools are good, others are so terrible i've spent the entire reel cursing at my settings/hand adjustments, only for the next reel to use the same settings/adjustments and work perfect.

also, i highly recommend an auto-darkening mask. they're under $100 anymore and make it far easier to see what's happening when making sparks and not making sparks, all without lifting the mask. i really like my vulcan 10.1 sq. inch mask. it's a little pricier, and honestly not as nice as some genuine lincoln/hobart masks, but works plenty well for most situations.

as far as the multi-process welders, i don't fully agree with them. it's hard enough to learn one welding type (mig/tig/stick), with each having some very specific handling differences. if you're only using it for small steel projects, it can be cheaper and less fussy to stick with a mig-only welder, and then run the gasless flux core wire in it.

 

I agree for someone putting their foot forward into the world of welding, a multiprocessor is unnecessary.

But often times, they are rated a little higher so it won't be something they'll easily outgrow. Not to mention, the benefit of being able to try other processes on the same machine is a lot cheaper than buying a dedicated machine just to see if you'll like it or not.

I see more pro's than con's as far as that goes.

 

I have no need to try to master another welding technique.

I consider myself a skilled MIG welder. I also know I will never completely master that skill.

I just don't want to confuse myself with other forms of welding. I'm just fine being a good MIG welder.

The multi process machines are just another headache to overcome.

I get it, we all love gadgets and options, but in the case of welding, it really doesn't apply.

I guess if you want to figure out what style of welding works for you, by all means, grab a multi process unit to figure out where you want be.

Be aware: welding is a skill that must be practiced. If you think that you can weld every other month and expect the same results, you will be disappointed. You need to weld every week to maintain your skills...every day would be better, but that is unrealistic.

I am not going to practice 3 or more types of welding on a regular basis.

I found MIG welding is allowing me to maintain my skills the easiest.

Obviously, this is my opinion, but I'm sure many will find this to be pretty revelent to the conversation.

I do like the HF MIG welding units. I've used several and found them to be quite adequate. I like that the stores have a good warranty on the product...even though you will never need to use it.

 

Even if it's your own opinion, I can agree on several of those points.

 

I think it’s just everything together for some people. Not related to this convo.
Imagine being new and young, and having to install a 40 amp ish plug in the house to handle a better machine.

While conversely, you can get a little 120v flux welder from harbor freight and it will work off a 20 amp receptacle for the most part.

Then depending on the process, you have all the other little things to get. Consumables, PPE, maybe gas/cylinder. A place to put it all. Etc.

I think some guys not only get the cheaper stuff for the money savings, but also the simplicity.

Then one day they need to have control of the heat when welding a bung for a temp sensor in on an aluminum pan. Now they have to get another welder.

 

it's the old 'swiss army knife problem'.

i can have a dedicated tool that does one thing really well

alternatively, i can get a tool that does multiple things, at a similar price, but does each of those things moderately well.

during my younger years, i always insisted that the multiple things for the same price was the better deal, and always carried multi-tools with me. these days, i've migrated to only carrying a dedicated knife, because i don't need a moderate knife/can opener/tweezers/pliers/file/screwdriver, i need one good knife.



+1 on the practicing welding. i've been going at it almost every day/every other day with my new job, for about 3 years now, and only in the last 6 months have started laying weld beads that look like something worth showing off.

it reminds me of those old movies where an old indian feels the ground, grabs a handful of dirt, lets it fall with the wind, and then accurately points to which direction the people they're chasing ran off in. there's a ton of nuance to welding that's lost in the moment. having the gear is really only half the problem. the other major thing is developing that '6th sense' to understand how the weld works, and what personal adjustments need to be made for the selected material/settings to make it work as desired.



sidebar-ish... ok, this is far more gatekeeping than i intended-- to the original post--make sure you have some scrap metal to play with. flat material is nice to just weld across to see the technique differences, but being that you have a specific and somewhat immediate project in mind, if you have some scrap similar to the size/thickness you're welding, it's ideal to cut it apart and make the same planned welding the project requires.

more than likely, you'll need to play with v-notching the two materials, and then filling with weld.

 

hehe, it's so much easier than marking and grinding everything... 5" c-channel... and, the triangle cutoff's are so sharp i could literally make chinese throwing stars out of them...