Anyone try using 10 to 15 mm wheel offset to fit 33s without a lift?

I'm a new Tacoma owner (2023 TRD Off Road, manual transmission). I would eventually like to upgrade the tire size to 33s. I've been down the rabbit hole of researching lift kits and trimming and realized that maybe this is something I can't really afford and questioned if I really want to do all that.

I also contemplated going down the pizza cutter tire route. This is actually appealing to me, except for the limited number of tires available (255/85 R16). Most of these are MTs, which look awesome and are great off road, but I need something better in the snow and ice when I'm not off road.

I stumbled across Tinkerer's Adventure on YouTube, which had a great explanation of how Toyota IFS works and the limitations and trade-offs of a lift kit. In https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_68Hc8GtLko&t=0s, @ 6:12, it is explained that a lift kit reduces down travel. To me, that seems important and maybe I really don't want a lift.

In part 2 of the series https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l1tTelhdEiM&t=0s @ 3:09, wheel offset importance is explained and it is indicated that 33s could potentially fit on the Toyotas he works on, FJ Cruisers.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LAYGdcKSA3o talks about steps to fitting 33s, and the conclusion is that they can fit on a FJ Cruiser with sufficient positive offset. Note that FJ Cruiser wheels have a +15 mm offset.

From what I've gathered, stock Tacoma wheels have a +25 mm offset and using 285/75 R16s will rub on the UCA.

Has tried using wheels with +10 mm to +15 mm offset and a 285/75 R16 tire without a lift?

Perhaps a used FJ Cruiser wheel, with +15 mm? Or maybe something like one of these:
https://www.discounttire.com/buy-wheels/tnt-wheels-nitro +12
https://www.discounttire.com/buy-wheels/dx4-terrain +10

Attached are the offset calculations from tiresize.com.

 

Stay with the stock OR rims and add the 255/85R16, use the lower control arm forward adjustments and no lift is needed. I have had both the BF Goodrich TA KM3s and Toyo Open Country M/Ts. My preference is the KM3s. Toyo is terrible on wet pavement. The KM3 is good in the snow.

 

It is a wise person who knows and controls spending. I am sure the above suggestion will provide some lift to start. There are so many little adds that can bring glee. Lights in the bed, upgraded lighting in the cab. Are a couple examples. Good luck with it

 

If you don't mind, I have some questions for you...

I currently have 285/75/16's Toyo AT3's and a 2.5" Toytec lift using 1.25" wheel spacers on my original Off-Road rims. I wish I had known about these 255/85/16 tires when I put it together and I'm REAL interested in changing as these wear out.

Here's my questions...
Since I need a 33" spare anyway, I thought I might buy a 255/85/16 MT and have it mounted on my OEM steel spare rim as a test:

1. Do you think I could install that spare set-up on a front corner WITHOUT the spacer?

2. What about WITH the spacer?

3. Do OEM steelies put the tire in the same place as the aluminum OR rims?

 

I bought one(1) KA3 and had it installed on the steel spare rim and moved it around from the front to the back, as I was also suspicious of the ability to run 33" without a lift or new rims. My test was without a spacer as I find those to be bad engineering. My understanding is you get into trouble with clearance the farther out the tire runs, something about the arc it takes in the turning. My old warn out KA3 33" spare fits in the factory location under the bed, much bigger will not. I will eventually be going to 35s.

IIRC the steel spare is about 5-10mm off in some direction of offset. In or out I don't remember. It is easy to measure.

Strongly recommend moving the lower control arm forward. You might ignore this last statement as I have no experience with how your lift affects this.

Any change to the vehicle and an alignment is absolutely imperative.

A previous post linked Tinker's Adventures YouTube channel - those videos are also imperative.

To reiterate, I do not know how your lift would affect any of the above. I kept things simple, also knowing I would be changing it in the future after I got some experience with the truck.

Your tires are 32.8" tall, while mine are 33.5" tall according to Tire Rack's web site.

 

Thank you for your input. Yes, mine are 32.8" but you know, I just call them 33's. They rub the rear side of the front fender wells when the outside tire edge is turned inboard there (imagine passenger side, hard right hand turn) just ever so slightly when completely stuffed off-road. Not enough to worry about at all (I don't even hear it) but we're talking about a slightly larger diameter tire but, the reduced width may pull the offending tire edge more toward the hub and avoid any rubbing but the diameter is greater.

You make a great point that, all bets are off with my non-OEM suspension.
I'm not really into working on cars and I don't anything about alignment geometry. I can tell you that the castor(?) was adjusted on the SPC uca's to move the wheel forward some.

Good info that the steel is DIFFERENT from the aluminum rims. I guess that's a no go option.

I think the only way then to test is to put the tire ($350+/-) on a spare OEM aluminum OR rim ($200 +/-) with mount/balance that's a $600 test!

So my current tire width is 11.3" and the 255/85/16 width is 10.2". That brings the tire's outside edge inboard about 0.5" (good) but, gain in radius with larger tire is about .350" (bad). My spacers are required for current tire to clear uca's I think? But if the 1.25" spacers are removed with the 255/85/16 I should expect gobs (technical term) of clearance where it currently touches and still clear the uca's. Does that sound reasonably correct?

I think that's an expensive test I can't afford. How can I find out for sure if a 255/85/16 will clear mounted on an original OR rim either with or, without my existing 1.25" spacers?
Could you tell with my alignment specs provided? Should I email Toytec? Post my question in the 3rdGen forum?

 

I’m not that versed in geometry either. What I can tell you is that with my stock OR rims and the KA3 tires I have described and moving the lower control arms forward the fit is just fine.

The steel is different, but not enough to make a difference in my opinion. That’s why I used it to test the fit. Toyota would not have used them if they created a problem for the stock configuration and a non-lifted truck is pretty much well stock.

I also have the SPC UPPER control arms, but I was referencing the LOWER control arms to be moved forward. It is not clear you understood that important step. This is the step that gets you tire clearance with the rear wheel well, too much and you can run into the front wheel well liner, if so do a Viper cut. After that the SPC UPPER control arms can be used to adjust both the Camber and to get an acceptable Caster angle. You must use an alignment shop that has experience with these procedures.

There are no assurances, but lifts are usually mis-associated with getting larger tire sizes, so I would not expect a problem.

I thought this was a 3rd gen forum post, I hardly go anywhere else.

 

Awesome first post dude. Send it!

 

I assumed similarly to you as far as Toyota making a steel spare with a full size tire. I was shocked that it is different at all!

You're right it is 3rd Gen forum, I bounce around a little and get confused sometimes.

I understand your mention of moving the lower control arm but, I was "told" my castor was adjusted to bring the wheel forward and I know it's different but, doesn't it also count for something? Perhaps not and, I should look into having lower adjusted? I didn't even know there was adjustment down there! I already have the viper cut and CMC so no issues there.

For now, I was hoping to put a 255/85/16 MT on an aluminum OR rim as a spare (anticipating a full set in the future) but I just don't think it's going to work with the 1.25" spacers which I need for the current tires. Shit!

Well anyway, when the current tires are toast, I'm pretty sure from what I've learned from your input and watching the previous videos that new 255/85/16 on my OEM wheels will fit when I remove the spacers.

Thanks for your time and input!

 

Thanks all.

I'm not looking to purchase new tires at this exact moment, just planning what I want to do when my factory GY Wranglers wear out or let me down sufficiently to justify a change sooner.

Unless someone else replies to this thread who has actually tried fitting a 285/75 R16 with a wheel with just enough positive offset to keep the tire close to the UCA without rubbing, I think I will need to skip this route. I don't have excess cash to try this without knowing it will work. I live near Toytec, but I doubt they would attempt trying this without purchasing tires and wheels first. It's also not in their best interest since they make lift kits.

My safest bet would be to use a 255/85/ R16. It's actually my preferred choice for its simplicity, cost (OE wheels), and the opinionated benefits of a skinny tire. I will research the KM3s. I'm a little picky with tire snow capability. I've had too many wintery close calls in my last truck, a 2011 Suzuki Equator (rebadged Nissan Frontier). I inherited this truck and so had no say in its initial configuration and tire choice and I didn't want to put a lot of money in it since I knew I would eventually get a Tacoma. Honestly, my Miata does better on packed snow and ice than that truck did with its cheap Big-O brand tires.

I might also just have to be happy with a 32 inch tire instead of a 33. There are a lot of tire choices for 265/75 R16.

 

Normally in the factory configuration "down there", i.e. the LOWER control arm is used to adjust camber and caster since the UPPER control arm is stationary; so "down there" is the factory adjustment location for everything but Toe. With the SPCs in the picture the upper control arm also can be used to do a lot more adjusting in both camber and caster. I understand this can be very confusing and time consuming for the alignment tech if not experienced with the SPCs. My first alignment was a complete failure by the local Schwab Tires (yuk).

If, in your prior alignment after the lift and SPC installation, they only moved the upper SPCs forward then that would mean they reduced your CASTER. Sure, that will give you a tiny bit more clearance, but the lower control arms are where you can make up the best clearance gain. Also, many believe that with larger tires you should add more caster, not take it away.

I was told by the successful alignment tech he had used the lower control arms only to gain clearance without the use of the SPCs on other Tacoma(s).

I really don't understand your problem with your spare tire plan; if you have a use for the spare just remove the spacer, if in the unlikely event you find it necessary. People drive with mismatched spares all the time just take it easy, don't be stupid. Sure, you won't want to be going 70 MPH down the freeway, but it should be sufficient to get you off the trail.

My total current configuration: no CMC; a Viper Cut, (just liked the look and I wanted to get some practice cutting things before I cut most of the stock bumper off); SPC upper control arms; mud flaps are in use for now; plus a 3/4" spacer lift, this came afterwards, just practicing seeing how I like things. I believe when I don't know what I want to take things slow. The SPCs were the only real costly thing, I think I spent $25 on the 3/4" spacer.

 

I cant find a 255/85/16 A/T tire that fits my needs, with the 3 peak snow designation. I really wish they made the Duratracs in the 255 33" size.

I'll soon be buying 17" rims and will go 33" 255/80/17 Wildpeak AT3 A/T tires. The knockoff TRD rims I am looking at are +5 Offset. Mind you, I currently have a 2" lift. Good luck

 

Toycoma2021 you said, "I really don't understand your problem with your spare tire plan; if you have a use for the spare just remove the spacer, if in the unlikely event you find it necessary."

You do, in fact, understand my problem with the spacer in the event I need to use the spare. It is the removal of both the flat tire AND the spacer that I find objectionable. But apparently, removing the flat tire AND the spacer wouldn't bother you. That's okay...to each their own!

Thanks again for your time and input!

 

@electricsam If you answered this already then I apologize for missing it. Are you going to take the truck off road at all? Or do you want to do the 33”s more for looks and it will stay on the road?

I’m not asking in a rude way way at all, I may have a solution for you depending on your answer.

 

@Road_Warrior I plan on taking the truck off-road, but I also want it to be competent on-road in bad weather. I understand that I might not get the best at both. KO2s or WILDPEAK A/T3Ws were at the top of my list since they are 3 peak mountain snowflake rated.

 

Ok gotcha. I was going to say that I used to have a 2” spacer lift up front and a ready lift 1” block in the rear. I fit 33” Yokohama g003’s with no problem. No cutting or trimming and they didn’t rub even at full lock, but that was only on road. Wheels were 16x8 with a -10mm offset. This was the truck then:




I have a much different setup now but my point is that’s a relatively cheap way to fit 33”s if you’re planning on staying mostly on the road.

 

I should have checked a different wheel size. I don't know why I didn't think of that. Maybe I was just focused on using the 16'' OE wheels with a skinny tire. That might be another option. I would be losing the additional sidewall that the 16'' wheels provide, but it sounds like most solutions will have a tradeoff.

 

Take a look at the wheel offset calculator You'll be able to fit more tire with less trimming the closer you get to the factory wheel specs assuming your tire isn't so wide it rubs on the upper control arms or springs.

 

That was my thinking. My original post had some screenshots of the offset calculator, comparing stock 265s to 285s. A 285 with a wheel with +15 mm is offset is almost the same distance from the suspension as the OE wheel with +25 mm offset running the stock 265 tires.

The screen grab of the offset you grabbed seems more like -15 mm. That would definitely require some modification!

I recently found out that the OE Tacoma TRD Pro wheels have a +13 mm offset. Knowing this, I did some more searching and found this thread, and this post in particular sums up my theory / question about using an offset that keeps the wheels tucked in as much as possible: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/stock-trd-pro-with-285-75-r16-mts.536754/page-4#post-20833654

There are claims on this thread that seem to indicate that it works. I'm taking this with a grain of salt though. These are TRD Pros, which have a small lift. This might make it seem like there is more space during normal on-road driving, but in reality there could be rubbing at other places in suspension travel when off-roading.

 

This thread needs a lot of guidance it seems.

Your lift DOES NOT impact what size tires you can run. We even have Tinkerer's videos linked in this thread, which describe this in great detail, yet the point is still missed. Unless you never want to rotate your steering wheel, or you never want to travel over the smallest of bumps, your lift doesn't mean anything when it comes to fitting tires that will or will not rub.

Here's my advice if you want 33's that require no modifications:

Get 255/85/R16's and run them on your OEM TRDOR rims. I run the Cooper Discoverer S/T Maxx in that size. They are a hybrid tire. There are no AT's in this size, fyi. They have excellent traction everywhere, including the snow. Plus they are plugged for studs from the manufacturer, if you really, really want some no nonsense traction on ice.

I've run them with, and without, 1.25" spacers. Lol at the comment about 'bad engineering'. Leave that idea at home.

I've run them with, and without, Rekgen mud flaps.

The truck does some serious work, and I have no complaints. I have the tiniest bit of rubbing (on the mud flap only, and only with the 1.25" spacer installed, which increases the scrub radius) turning driver, when that wheel is partially loaded, for maybe 25 degrees of steering wheel input.

_MG_4201 by Brent Prater, on Flickr

_MG_3730 by Brent Prater, on Flickr

_MG_4303 by Brent Prater, on Flickr