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Anyone mounted a Vantech rack on their topper?

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by GratefulTaco, Jun 7, 2016.

  1. Feb 27, 2018 at 11:57 AM
    #21
    WhiskeyTaco

    WhiskeyTaco Well-Known Member

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    I purchased the M1000 racks from Amazon about a year ago. If i were to do it again, I'd spend more for the j1000 because it's lower profile.

    Pros:
    Heavy duty
    Affordable
    Good design
    Easy installation

    Cons:
    Heavier than other options
    Not aerodynamic
    Limited aftermarket support (I.e kayak racks, bike racks)
    Not adjustable
     
  2. Feb 27, 2018 at 12:53 PM
    #22
    Capt. Obvious

    Capt. Obvious Fearless Keyboard Warrior

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    6" body lift, LEDs errwhere, Jesus mural on the hood
    I bought the 59" bars, but I ended up cutting them down to 50" when converted the rack into a platform.


    Sorry, those are the only pics I have handy, no close ups at the moment.
     
    Jellero[QUOTED] likes this.
  3. Feb 27, 2018 at 1:34 PM
    #23
    WhiskeyTaco

    WhiskeyTaco Well-Known Member

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  4. Feb 28, 2018 at 4:38 AM
    #24
    Jellero

    Jellero Well-Known Member

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    A few....
    No worries! Thanks! Was it as big deal to cut the bars? Did the end caps work ok afterwards?
     
  5. Mar 8, 2018 at 8:22 PM
    #25
    Capt. Obvious

    Capt. Obvious Fearless Keyboard Warrior

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    The bars were really easy to cut, I just used a hacksaw. The end caps just popped right back on.
     
    Jellero[QUOTED] likes this.
  6. Mar 9, 2018 at 4:43 AM
    #26
    Jellero

    Jellero Well-Known Member

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    A few....
    Thanks!
     
  7. Apr 3, 2018 at 10:19 AM
    #27
    JiggyZ

    JiggyZ Active Member

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    Getting ready to do this, but installed on a track. Worked out the extra parts from a Sprinter Van Set I got on Craigslist.

    It looks like there is some sort of shim used for the direct mount to offset the curve of the topper, no? I am seeing this on mine and rather than shimming (couldn't figure out a way to do it without the bolts getting wonky or stressing the track or crossbar), I am looking at bending the vertical support member from the pivot point where it hits the "v" part of the support. When done and mounted, the vertical member should be straight up and down with the correct 90 at the crossbar connection, the "V" remains as is (for mounting clearance-nylock nut and washer will be up exposed-not much room there) and the support will sit flush on the rail.

    I like the system and it never even entered my thought process until I saw it on Craigslist...then I just had to have it. The system I got is with the larger supports (6" wide mount and 4" bolt to bolt), so I agree on the smaller 4" wide mount (3" bolt to bolt) for slightly lower clearance whatever that measurement is. 55" x3" x 1.5" Crossbars on top-which also accommodate the kayak mounts my wife got for her VW wagon but never used..ever...they have been sitting in the garage for years while I used a homemade lumber type rack for my truck, which is now of no use since I got the topper.

    The track I used is from a 2002 Ford Expedition which I got from the Junkyard and cut down a few inches. I had even purchased the new Rhino Rack track (which is pretty sweet), but I took it back because it is just not as robust as the Ford track and would also not accommodate the VanTech slider that goes in the track. I also pulled the track off of a 94 Pathfinder and it was extra super sturdy, but the end caps did not look as neat and it is pretty heavy-like 10lbs each side heavy, but fits all of the Vantech inserts and will never fail..ever.

    The Yakima and Thule tracks seem a bit more robust with a wider top flange than the Rhino and I think they accommodate VANTECH sliders. Proline tracks look like they would also work but not much of a top flange.

    For those concerned with topper capacity, look at the track option as it puts less point stress on the topper and offers the versatility on the crossbars.

    I have been at this for awhile. All told I spent or will have spent about $180 on the rack, plus a couple trips to the junkyard, and who knows how much time to this monument to inefficiency. i just didn't feel like being pigeonholed into a Thule or Yakima set up, which by the way are pretty hard to come by on Craigslist. The topper is a color matched (white) Snugtop cab high which I got off Craigslist for $600. Will post up pics when done.

    A lot of work but should be considered more and more v. Thule/Yakima/Rhino.
     
    gulzeb likes this.
  8. Apr 3, 2018 at 10:24 AM
    #28
    WhiskeyTaco

    WhiskeyTaco Well-Known Member

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    I emailed Vantec customer service and they sent out foam wedges (for free) to conform to the edges of the camper shell I found I didn't use them though.

    It did come with flat foam to place underneath the mounts which is in the picture
     
  9. Apr 3, 2018 at 10:58 AM
    #29
    SeanBonham

    SeanBonham Well-Known Member

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  10. Apr 3, 2018 at 12:57 PM
    #30
    JiggyZ

    JiggyZ Active Member

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    Any special support modification or did it fit right out of the box? Nice ride.
     
  11. Apr 6, 2018 at 6:42 PM
    #31
    tmangini2

    tmangini2 Well-Known Member

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    so what is the acutal weight limit on these camper tops, thnking about selling my rack and buying camper top but not sure now
     
  12. Apr 9, 2018 at 7:32 AM
    #32
    SeanBonham

    SeanBonham Well-Known Member

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    I mounted them to the pre-installed tracks that came on my cap. I had to order some T-Bolts and a few hardware store nuts etc.
     
  13. Apr 9, 2018 at 7:34 AM
    #33
    SeanBonham

    SeanBonham Well-Known Member

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    A few hundred pounds if you don't get the reinforced versions. Those can hold much more. I'd swing by your local cap dealer and ask them.
     
  14. Jan 9, 2019 at 10:58 AM
    #34
    Barrett5991

    Barrett5991 Well-Known Member

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    I’m super intrigued by you converting your rack to a platform. How did you do it?
     
  15. Jan 9, 2019 at 11:49 AM
    #35
    Capt. Obvious

    Capt. Obvious Fearless Keyboard Warrior

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    6" body lift, LEDs errwhere, Jesus mural on the hood
    I've never gotten around to taking any good pictures of it, but the gist is I used some angle steel to connect the two bars to one another (the ends are threaded, though I had to rethread one side when I cut them down). Then, for cross bars I used some unistrut.
    https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbil...in-Zinc-Plated-Slotted-Angle-800087/204325585

    It's quite sturdy and I've had a decent amount of weight on it without any issues. However, if I were to put a roof tent up there I'd probably want to add one more of bases in the middle, as the span between them is almost 4 feet.

    Here's another view of it, though it still isn't that usefull.
     
  16. Jan 9, 2019 at 11:55 AM
    #36
    Barrett5991

    Barrett5991 Well-Known Member

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    It looks pretty good in that picture, I'm going to give this project a go at some point. Maybe after I finish up my 100K maintenance.
     
  17. Jul 17, 2019 at 8:51 PM
    #37
    Beater_Bimmer

    Beater_Bimmer Well-Known Member

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    Matt
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    I just ordered a J1000 kit and it arrived today. It looks like it only has 1 thru hole to mount into my camper shell. Is that normal?

    All the photos I’ve seen and the instructions they provided depict 2 thru holes per mounting foot.

    6032088C-983E-4E82-846D-09FEE9DC8BC4.jpg B0CC249F-82FF-4E4B-9665-458F0EB01D9F.jpg
     
  18. Sep 27, 2020 at 4:16 AM
    #38
    rustyfromskowhegan

    rustyfromskowhegan Well-Known Member

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    Just bought a cap that looks to have m1000 racks on it. Any of you folks with the m series racks on your shell have any significant wind noise from the racks? Driving it home on the highway for the first time there was some pretty bad whistling. Possibly considering the vantech wind deflector/fairing. Anyone have experience with that?
     

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