Anyone have photos of how you carry 4x8 sheet goods?

Picked up 16 sheets of 7/16 OSB plywood’s this morning. Here is how I loaded it as I explained in my first post.

 

I'm going to throw this in here, even though I'm way late to the conversation. I put this together quite awhile back. Super cheap, and requires NO MODIFICATION TO ANYTHING.



https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/adjustable-tailgate-cables-on-the-cheap.477171/#post-14489293

 

Nice product and concept, but I would bolt some triangle cut Al plate on the 90's at the lower point and above where the T is.
I don't trust the welds on those things.
Some reviewers prove it.

 

Great idea and would work for toppers.
Edit-only concern would be strength of latch inside tailgate. The frame end looks stout enough for reasonable loads.

 

Just drop it in and tie it down

 

I'd bet the latch would hold with far more weight than the tailgate itself can handle before starting to bend/buckle.

The latch seems heavy duty, and it has two "notches", just like your car door does. Shove it in a lil and it locks in, but shove all the way and you get that second snap and it's in good.

 

fence panels just happen to be 43" in the middle and 48" on the ends, 10' long, it worked out well

 

I have one of those too, never had any issues. But welding a couple triangular steel braces down there is probably smart, thanks for the idea.

 

Well played.

 

That looks cool, but I don't like the moment of inertia of that tailgate. I looks to me that at that angle there would be a tremendous amount of force on those bolts and thus the bed walls.

Someone with actual grasp on physics weigh in..

 

I carry drywall & gypsum board in either the '69 or the '84, since they've got 8 foot beds. Then I can load them up and just close the tailgate.

 

Not to be a internet creeper but I noticed the Otter co-op bags. Are you in the Lower Mainland?

 

I do flat in the bed for heavy stuff, or up over my headache rack for somewhat lighter loads like ladders and 2x4s.

 

I think all the pressure would be in the chain area and something there would break before the tailgate bends or buckles .

 

All of these look like 350lbs rated. Amazon sells one by Erickson model 07600 that's rated 400lb and built better for about $45 more. Worth it imo.

 

VERY clever!!!Thanks for sharing

 

Since the gate itself is notoriously weak it's the sheet metal around the latch that concerns me but I like the idea enough to pull the cover and have a look before trying it. The loops are bolted to pretty stout metal, I'd just like to reassure myself that the parts in the gate are equally secure or can be made so. Normally, it only has to hold it closed against minimal force. I'm sure its fine for even a couple pieces of drywall but wouldnt load much more on it without something else to take the weight. I have the support brackets so even 1/2" ply on edge or a notchd 2x4 secured to that would be enough. Working in the trades I have more definite notions on what is HD and what isn't and there's not much about these trucks that qualifies without augmentation. Still, at the very least a great idea for getting the gate out off the way but not having it bounce on the cables.

 

The chain is something like 1500lb working load, and the screw carabiner thing about 2000. 2nd gens have notoriously week tailgates. Lots of people have bent them pretty good with just an atv's rear wheels on them. Not trying to argue, just saying I doubt the chain and/or latch and mount would break before you go WAY, WAY beyond what the truck can safely handle. And then all bets are off and you better be ready to buy a new tailgate, haha!

 

Ok, I get what you mean now, about the latch mounting area failing. I'm just relying on the hope that the latching mount area should be similarly strong, if not more so than how the cable mounts.

vs a single bolt threading in for the cable mount.