Anyone else encounter issues with rear brake shoes retaining springs/clips?

Twice now I've had to thread bolts into the drums to get them off.

After the second time, I made sure to have the rear brakes adjusted correctly.
The theory is that the rear may have been out of adjustment, causing excessive play.
I thought that the play was more then what the retaining clips/springs could handle...causing them to come un-done.

Now it looks like it's happened again

Drums seemed be within limits.
Will verify once I get it off...may try replacing or have them turned on a latte (if within service limits).

Before I force the drums off, anyone else encounter this issue?

Uploaded a sample pic that I found online.

 

Can't say I had to use screws because anything was loose.
Typically I have back tension off springs by using the adjuster.
You can access it by the hole in the backing plate.

I am a bit confused to the actual spring you saying is coming loose?

My springs were tight even before I adjusted the brakes.
The main reason I don't like doing the rear brakes. The springs and my lack of using the right tools to stretch them in place.
Yes....yes, I do say bad words when working on drum brakes. Lol

 

Which spring are you talking about?

 

The small springs with top-hat that retain the brake-shoes onto the backing plates.

The adjusters aren't that useful when these springs are no longer holding everything together. This is the reason I'm forced to use bolts from the face to push the drums off.

 

Get new top hats and pins

 

Are you talking about the drum sticking to the pads? That happened to me, the second time I pulled the drum off, I adjusted the tensioner and beat the drum with a mallet and it came right off. I read some place that the drums on our trucks tend to tighten up when they are just sitting, not sure how true that is though.

 

The only way I can see these coming loose are;

1) The pin is too long. Which would cause the spring not to compress enough to keep proper tension to the shoe.

2) The spring is too weak or short.

3) The actual depth, at which the shoe itself sits (metal part of shoe that the spring sits on), is further inside or towards the back.
This could cause the pin and spring tension to be weaker.

Are the Pads and Spring OEM.

Before, any says OEM is NOT better. That’s not the point.
The point is, are the parts in spec.

Maybe @Jimmyh @Muddinfun can help you out.
They would likely know much more than me.

 

Thanks for the replies.
Will try to picking up replacement spring/pin/hats.

Each time this happened, drum removal is such a pain...not looking forward to this one.

 

When you do, compare the new to old.
See if they are the same length.
And let us know how it works out for you.
Hope you get it fixed soon
Good luck to you man!

 

This may sound silly you do have the brake shoes on correctly, there is a front and back shoe.

 

This is typical of all drum brakes. The hold down springs are functioning as designed. The shoes being pulled out when trying to remove drum is normal. A number of things that happen that adds to the difficulty of removing drums. Shoes are adjusted to tight. Drums are slightly rusted to axle flange. Drum is worn enough to where a slight ridge has developed outside of the surface where the shoes contact the drum. A few things that can help remove drums are. Carefully using a rust penetrant/inhibitor around and on the areas where the drum and axle contact each other. Using a flat faced hammer on face of drum (avoid hitting studs) gently to break loose drum from axle. Grabbing drum with both hands and jiggle both clock wise and counter clock wise as you pull towards you. With an appropriate brake adjustment tool back off adjuster. Removing of the brake drums more frequently will also help such as during tire rotations. At this time inspect and remove any build up brake dust. Not a bad idea to wear at least a dust mask.

 

Both brake-shoe retaining clips were quite worn, allowing pins to slip through.
Didn't notice this, the last time I dealt with this.

Ordered replacement drums, as they are reaching end of service.

Soooo looking forward to not having to pound the hell out of them to get them off.

Third time is a charm

 

Be sure to wire brush off all surface rust on the hub and drum. Ive also seen folks put a thin layer of anti-seize on the mating surfaces of the drum and hub to reduce "stiction"

 

Not only clean but make sure shoe to backing plates contact points are smooth/not grooved and these points should have a light dab of anti-seize/grease that wont wash away easily as well.

 

You should replace brake hardware every time you service the rear brakes. It's cheap, might come in a complete kit. I almost always have to use bolts to remove drums because of rust between the drum and axle. If your drums are worn out and they have a lip on the inside edge, it will be tough to get the drum off unless you back off on the adjuster.
Trucks with disc/front, drum/rear brakes use mostly the front discs. If you don't keep the rear brakes adjusted, you'll hardly use them. Front brakes will work harder, wear out quicker and the rears will rust and get cobwebs. Step on that e-brake a few times when you're backing up, saves you from having to adjust them manually.

It looks by your backing plate that someone may have tried to pry the drum off with a bar or something.

 

I recently replaced the entire setup; drums, shoes, and hardware. The oem setup lasted me 190k. Went w the powerstop kit off Amazon. It was a pain, but very straight forward. Do one side at a time.

protip: get your the $10 brake drum service kit from harbor freight tools. Makes the job a lot smoother.

 

Guilty.
Replacement drums should arrive this week.

Thank you all for your replies