Any downsides to a single piece drive shaft?

Like many members here, my Tacoma is lifted and as a result I'm chasing down vibrations in the drive train. I've replaced my OEM needle bearing with the ECGS unit and I've also replaced my carrier bearing. No dice.

So like many others, I'm turning to Tom Woods for a single piece drive shaft solution to my vibration woes. I'm thinking this is likely my best shot at once again having a smooth driving Tacoma. Any reason why I shouldn't get a single piece drive shaft? What are the downsides to doing so? Also, double cardan input joint or no? I'm new to this topic and I'm trying to gather information. Any input is very much appreciated!

 

Subd.

 

I would take my Tacoma to a competent drive line shop and ask them to diagnose. Worth the cost, IMO.

You can also pull your DS out and drive in FWD to confirm you have e a DS problem.

 

I'm considering pulling the shaft as you stated. I'm pretty certain that's what it is though. Here's my thought on taking it to a shop...New shaft costs about $500 total (or slightly less) out the door and I can bolt that in myself. You think I can get a drive line shop to diagnose it and fix it for less? Honest question. Pretty much at my wits end here.

 

Yes. I would make some phone calls and get quotes.

With a 2-piece driveshaft it's essential that the pinion angle match the slope of the first shaft.

I bought a digital angle finder on Amazon for $30.

I chocked and blocked my front wheels, and put my truck rear axle on jack stands.

With the transmission in neutral I could then freely rotate the rear drive shaft by hand.

I was able to align the shaft, pull the U joint bearing cap retention clips, and use a 19 millimeter socket plus my digital angle finder to precisely take measurements of angles.

That is essentially what a shop would do.

I don't know how much your truck is lifted but in my case it's about 3 inch lift in the rear. What this does is it pushes the pinion down. In order to compensate for this I used a 3 degree axle shim to rotate the pinion up.

In my case it worked. No unwanted vibrations.

On the first page of my build thread there is a link to a little write-up and how to measure Driveline angles. It may be helpful.

 

I have a one piece double cardon drive shaft from Tom Woods and it absolutely is a cure for drive line vibes and makes the drive line feel so much more solid too. Just make sure that you get the double cardon joint at the front. The only draw back is slightly less ground clearance because the one piece shaft is 1" larger diameter to support the length.

 

If there's such a benefit to a one piece, why is there two in the first place?

 

I dont have anything in the vibration but click the link in my sig and come to the meet!

 

It hangs lower, so ground clearance issues maybe,
also heavier, more stress on transfer case or transmission internal components), etc.

 

2" lifts FTW.

 

And this is why mine is aluminum.

 

+1

 

@bayareataco because I can't remember Cody's username.

 

Here for the

 

It's @Qrtrtilt

I have a one piece and it's beefy! Upsides would be less parts that will fail, no carrier bearing etc. Another upside to going with a Woody of High Angle Driveline is that you can have some pretty thick wall tubing.

You'll want an early Toyota double Cardon and you'll have to change out the output flange on the t case. No worries Trail Gear and Marlin sell that.

Downside is less clearance, I wrapped mine good on some rocks on the Rubicon and couldn't go faster than 65 on the way home. $40 later at a driveline shop to re balance and it's good to go.

 

can't do aluminum on a dbcb unless you want an over 4" diameter drive shaft. I should have mentioned that you have to remove the OE carrier bearing cross member with a 1 piece if you want to bump at the frame too.

 

You don't need anything special for a second gen, a Tom Woods bolts right up to all OE flanges

 

4" FTW.