Anti-seize lubricant on spark plug threads?

Hello Fellow Tacoma Junkies,

What do people in Tacoma World think about using Anti-Seize Lubricant on their spark plug threads when changing out their spark plugs?
Thank you in advance for your replies.

Take care,
Paul Muzinich

 

There’s different schools of thought in regards to the answer to your question. But, because the spark plug torque value spec is based on non lubricated threads I don’t use any anti-seize.

 

I always use a little dab and never torque spark plugs to spec. The “good and tight” method has been working fine for me for 30 years.

 

spark plugs are over tightened by many

just a dab will do with proper torque

 

If you do, be sure to use the high temp anti-seize. Just a dab, no need to Rembrandt the threads.

You can torque the plugs using an old school method.
Run the plugs in until the plug gasket makes firm contact. Turn an additional 1/4 turn.

The goal is the deform the metal gasket to make a seal.

 

Same here, add 20 years to the anecdotal evidence.

 

I anti-seize anything and everything that can be safely treated...including my toast every morning. It's the greatest tool in the world. This, after 3 decades of wrenching trucks, heavy equipment, etc used in my past business.

For the want of a penny's-worth of anti-seize, I have tens-of-thousands of dollars in labor and sometimes fabrication expenses all because it was assembled by the mfg without it.

I do use it VERY SPARINGLY on plugs but torque to a lower standard than spec if the fitting isn't spec'd to use it in the first place.

 

I think your nuts if you dont....especially on aluminum heads...

Iridium plugs could be in there 80K ~ 100K...

I dont think it has to be anti-size even through thats what I do now..
worked on motorcycles since 60's and we always put a dab of disc brake grease...

All structural threads need something for maximum performance...
a dry thread is an uncertain seat unless locked mechanically...
And thats before we get into dissimilar metals.....

 

Once I get the plugs out the first time I use Copper based Anti Seize plus the silicone on the boots.

Then I have never torqued a spark plug in my whole life.

I buy Anti Seize by the case internal Engine Bolts are the only place I don`t use it.

 

Never

 

I've never used anti-seize on plugs and always tightened them by feel. Never had a problem. I've also worked on cars for 30 years so I know how tight they should be.

 

I have seen lots of shops having to deal with seized original spark plugs in aluminum heads, it’s frequently a major job and new threads needed. That means head removal. New plugs can be speced from the factory to be changed at 160,000 kms/100,000 miles, then owners change them later than that. Anti seize works.

I’ve removed stud bolts in exhaust manifolds which had anti seize on them years ago, no problems on my old cast iron bolts. Usually removal of the manifolds is required and a torch.

My thought is, why would you not use it on spark plugs?

 

NGK says don't use it.

https://ngksparkplugs.com/en/resources/5-things-you-should-know-about-spark-plugs

 

Will NGK pay the repair costs to pay for extracting there plugs that were installed per there instructions ??

It comes down to a personal choice there is no real wrong answer

 

I’ve used it with ngk, just don’t over tighten the plug. Use 20% less torque. (I never use a torque wrench on plugs).

 

I am 48. I always use anti-sieze.

 

Not put on at the factory, not in the service manual, not needed at all. Just torque correctly and all is well.

 

https://www.toyotanation.com/threads/spark-plug-stuck.1509962/

 

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f123/spark-plugs-seized-advice-77449/