Am I replacing my entire steering rack? Or can this hard line be repaired or replaced?

I have a 2006 PreRunner with the V6 and access cab. Truck was previously owned in Ohio, so yeah it’s got the rust gremlin, but no rust on the body, and the frame was replaced, so it is clean as well. What it does have is rust on every nut bolt and metal part under the truck.

I recently had to replace the transmission lines because of rust pinholes, and now it looks like the power steering lines are next. The lines that run from the rack to the pump look okay, but one of the external lines on the rack itself is leaking like mad.

can this line be repaired or replaced? Or is it so built in the rack that I will have to replace the rack?

 

I'm pretty sure it can be replaced without replacing the entire rack. My rack was leaking and I had a torn boot so I had them replaced by a shop just before I wrecked my truck.

I do know from Toyota the hose came as an assembly with all the brackets. I think the part number was 44410-04220 thou I have a TRD Off Road. It was stupid expensive.

Also I know there's a funny double crush washer on the power steering pump Part#44327-30030 to be aware of. I broke mine after the accident when I was putting the truck back together. I replaced the Power steering pulley at that time.

I don't know how exactly the hoses attach to the power steering rack. Hopefully another member will chime in on that. My dad's truck has the same rust that you pictured. I think I will do this replacement myself on his truck.

Good Luck!

 

Check out your local hydraulic hose supplier, they should be able to make one and it usually is alot cheaper.

 

Likely the line is rusted into the rack and won't be salvageable.

Also if the boots are full of oil, its time anyways.

 

You might try cutting the leaking section out, flaring the line a little bit and then using bulk hose and some hose clamps.. but if it's super rusty it might not work

 

See post #2 for info to get one.
Power steering Leak | Tacoma World

After replacing the hose set flush the PS pump and rack while up on jack stands.
Posts on that procedure on TW.

 

that’s my fear as well. The fittings look crusty and given how most repairs on this truck have gone, are sure to either refuse to budge, or snap right off. The boots are not wet, but that may not matter if this line is not replaceable

Thanks for the link, but I think my leak goes beyond those lines. Best I can tell from the diagram linked, that is the replacement hose kit that goes from the rack to the power steering pump. I bought that thinking that the most likely culprit. Still may use it, but it seems like it might be with a new rack.

 

Okay, new question. Until I can get this thing into the shop, which looks like it will be weeks from now, I need to do something to be able to at least move it around without fluid spraying everywhere or burning up my pump.

How much pressure does that specific line carry? (the one with the arrow in the first post) I have a section of rubber line rated for ATF, and after inspecting my rusted line, I have at least a few inches of solid metal on each end. If I cut off the "middle" rusted section, and patch it with the rubber line, do I have any hope of this holding? Double clamp? Do I need a bubble flare on each end to give the clamps something to hold against? If I have to bubble flare, that may be problematic. Trying to get those fasteners loose may just break them off.

To be clear, I know a rubber line here is not a long term answer, but will it be good enough for what I need it to do? Just moving it around my driveway and then getting it to the parking lot for the tow truck driver.

 

If its short little 30 secs of running, just pull the serpentine belt? You wont have power steering.

 

Your trucks an 06? Prob time to replace the whole rack. I had a new one put in 4 years ago. Mine was leaking as well.

 

Yeah, it's an 06. I'm going to replace the rack, local shop I trust just gave me a quote of $1025 all parts and labor, so that's not as bad as it could have been. Because they are a trustworthy shop, they are booked out weeks in advance, so I just need to come up with a temp band-aid fix that will enable me to move it around and then drive it a mile or so to where I can get it on a flatbed.

Hoping someone can chime in on whether my temp rubber line idea will hold up, or if it's just going to pop off immediately

Shame the rust ate up the lines, truck has super low mileage for an 06 at 79K. But rust does not care about mileage!

 

That’s about what I paid for mine. Be prepared. It’s a huge job for a shop. Especially with old rusty parts like mine. They ended up working on the truck for almost two full days.

 

Adding an update with what I have tried so far, and what seems to have worked.

I knew it was a long shot, but since I knew exactly where on the rusty line it was leaking, I cleaned the area very well with a wire brush and brake clean. Mixed up some JBWeld and painted it over the spot. Went a good two inches on either side of the leak, and all the way around the metal line. I thought if I encapsulated it, maybe it would hold for a bit. I waited the suggested 24 hours for the jb weld

it did not. As soon as I put ATF back in and started the engine, it immediately began leaking again. Oh well, I knew it almost certainly would no work. So I moved on to plan B

Using a very small hacksaw, I cut out the rusty segment of the metal line. I left about 3 inches on each end attached to the rack, and those sections of line were solid, no rust bubbles at all. About a 14 inch segment of the appropriate rubber hose, slipped on both ends at least 2 inches, with both ends double clamped using new screw type clamps. Filled the system back up with ATF and did the bleeding process. So far, not a drop!

I am still going to have the entire rack replaced in a few weeks, I know this is a temp fix. Even if this rubber line holds, the other metal lines all look like they are just as rusty, so time to bite the bullet.

 

I have a 2014 TRD. I had a pin hole sized rust hole on that hard line.

I have been trying to fix it for the last two weeks.

I bought three different types of JB Weld. Put it on. Waited a day. It leaked.
All three types did not cure, even after several days. I actually returned two of the tubes to Canadian Tire and showed them that the solid pieces of JB Weld that I removed, could break so easily.

today, a plumber buddy of mine came by. He saw the truck and said that he could repair it. I was really tired of trying to fix it so I let him.

First, we bought some high pressure fuel line and 8 small hose clamps. He cut out the bad part (around three inches) and put in the flexible hose. Tried several variations of hose clamps. They just blew the hose off, probably due to the very high pressure and slippery metal pipe.

we went back to CT and bought 2 hydraulic compression fitting. And a one foot length of 5/16 metal brake pipe. And a small pipe cutter and a pipe flaring tool.

came back and installed the two compression fittings and part of the brake line in between.

All of this took a really long time but it’s finally working okay. Haven’t tried it on the road yet but it seems to be working. One compression fitting was leaking slightly but my buddy tightened it up a bit more and it’s okay.

This truck is awesome.
Until there’s an impossible fault.

I got stuck once, the alternator stopped working. Had it towed home for free, installed a spare alternator in ten minutes and all was good.

Oakville, Ontario.