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Alternator Testing

Discussion in 'Technical Chat' started by GulfCoastMike, Sep 20, 2017.

  1. Sep 20, 2017 at 9:56 AM
    #1
    GulfCoastMike

    GulfCoastMike [OP] Co-pilot Angel

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    Here's a quick test to see if your alternator’s diodes are ok. I wish I could remember where I found it.

    An alternator produces three phase AC current which is fed to a rectifier system of (usually) 6 diodes. This turns the AC into DC with just a small amount of ripple in it. The battery acts kind of like a filter so that this ripple doesn't affect anything. If one or more of the diodes fail, that small ripple will become much bigger.

    With the motor running, turn on everything you possibly can in the truck. AC, high beams, radio, emergency flashers, all of it.

    Here is how to check your alternator with a good digital multimeter. Set the meter to the lowest AC Voltage range (Yes, AC). Put the black lead on the negative battery post and the red lead on the positive battery post. Run the engine at about 1500 RPM.

    You should not read more 0.09 volts AC. If you do, you must rebuild or replace the alternator.

    I hope this helps someone.
     
    Last edited: Sep 21, 2017
    2k2, wilcam47 and tan4x4 like this.
  2. Sep 20, 2017 at 3:36 PM
    #2
    Toyota4x46921

    Toyota4x46921 Well-Known Member

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    Gonna try this in a minute....I have been having problems with my alternator
     
  3. Sep 20, 2017 at 4:26 PM
    #3
    GulfCoastMike

    GulfCoastMike [OP] Co-pilot Angel

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    Let me and everyone on here know what results you get.
     
  4. Sep 20, 2017 at 4:52 PM
    #4
    bob4x4

    bob4x4 Active Member

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    That test only for ac noise or leakage.You can have an alternator that will fail that test but produce the design amperage.
     
  5. Sep 20, 2017 at 4:56 PM
    #5
    Toyota4x46921

    Toyota4x46921 Well-Known Member

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    I tried 2 different meters.....one was 0.00....the other flashes 88.2 and 0
     
  6. Sep 20, 2017 at 5:32 PM
    #6
    GulfCoastMike

    GulfCoastMike [OP] Co-pilot Angel

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    That's right. This is in no way a comprehensive alternator test. My understanding is that it only checks for a diode fault.

    I put this out as a tool that might be an easy go/no go check. If you find this condition, you know you have a faulty alternator.

    Unfortunately, if this test is within specifications, you may still have a bad alternator.
     
  7. Sep 20, 2017 at 5:37 PM
    #7
    wilcam47

    wilcam47 Keep on keeping on!

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  8. Sep 20, 2017 at 5:44 PM
    #8
    GulfCoastMike

    GulfCoastMike [OP] Co-pilot Angel

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  9. Sep 20, 2017 at 6:18 PM
    #9
    Toyota4x46921

    Toyota4x46921 Well-Known Member

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    I'll try that too in the morning. My problem is while in drive with headlights and everything on my voltage is 12.8-13.2. Goes to 13.9 with headlights off and everything else on. Been chasing this crap for 2 years....about to order another alternator. I have a 130 installed that I bought from bamatoy off of here. He doesn't have any ideas. I tested all my grounds with volt meter and using techniques I found off you tube. Battery is 3 months old and load tests fine.
     
  10. Sep 20, 2017 at 7:27 PM
    #10
    GulfCoastMike

    GulfCoastMike [OP] Co-pilot Angel

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    It took awhile to find this, but this may be handy for those that are comfortable rebuilding an alternator.

    This company sells rebuild kits for alternators and I came across them while I was on the Ford Ranger Forum.

    I have not researched if they have Taco repair kits. I've only been an owner of mine for five weeks.

    Anyhow, here is a link to the company that sells "Victory Lap" brand rebuild kits. They were extremely nice when I called about a Ranger rebuild kit.

    http://www.cpidivisions.com/products/parts-division-2/
     
    Last edited: Sep 22, 2017

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