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Alternator Output

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by JCH, Jul 5, 2013.

  1. Jul 5, 2013 at 12:01 PM
    #1
    JCH

    JCH [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Hey guys so I was wondering if anyone knew the alternator output on an 01 Tacoma 4x4, 3.4 V6, TRD? I've heard 60 amps on here but I called toyota and was told 80 amps. Anyone know for sure?
     
  2. Jul 5, 2013 at 1:13 PM
    #2
    Terminal4

    Terminal4 Well-Known Member

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    Are you experiencing any particular issues to prompt you to check output? If you have an alternator that can produce 120 amps of current (max) and the the total current demand from the electrical accessories (including the battery) is only 20 amps, the alternator will only produce the necessary current (20 amps) to maintain the target voltage (which is determined by the alternator's internal voltage regulator).
    Simple Test:
    If you want to see if your alternator is producing current, turn on your headlights when you're parked and the engine idling with the headlights shining on a wall (at night). Notice how bright they are. Then turn the engine off. The lights should get dimmer when you turn the engine off. If the lights get brighter when you kill the engine, the alternator was not charging sufficiently. When doing this test, the lights should be the only load (turn the stereo, a/c and other accessories off). With a heavy load, an otherwise good alternator may not be able to produce sufficient amounts of current at idle.
     
  3. Jul 5, 2013 at 1:34 PM
    #3
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

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    It's 80-90 amps stock max
     
  4. Jul 5, 2013 at 5:54 PM
    #4
    JCH

    JCH [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks that's some good info. No particular problems I'm just looking into getting a new sub and amp so I'm trying to figure how much power I've got to work with.
     
  5. Jul 5, 2013 at 7:57 PM
    #5
    tacomataco2

    tacomataco2 A dude

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    Get a capacitor! Also think about installing some 4g wire between the alternator and the positive battery terminal, the chassis and the negative battery terminal, and the chassis and the engine block. Reduces headlight fade, and gives fuller bass. You probably won't need a higher output alternator
     
  6. Jul 5, 2013 at 8:38 PM
    #6
    Terminal4

    Terminal4 Well-Known Member

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    ^yes, very ideal. And the alt will handle. I would invest in an optima battery also. Have never had one of those die.
     
  7. Jul 5, 2013 at 8:42 PM
    #7
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

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    Capacitors don't help that much.

    Do a CS144 alternator swap. 140 amp alternator. Pretty cheap.

    Redo ground cables to 4 ga and power cables. Then you'll be fine
     
  8. Jul 5, 2013 at 9:52 PM
    #8
    JCH

    JCH [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the help guys! I'm kinda rethink about how much power I'm going to run. If I'm only pushing 400-500 watts I should be good on stock electrical right?
     
  9. Jul 5, 2013 at 10:00 PM
    #9
    tacomataco2

    tacomataco2 A dude

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    I do 500 rms and I'm fine, I think you'll be ok. Have a good battery, and add the 4g wires. I think capacitors are worth while. It can't hurt, even if it just helps a little on heavier bass.
     
  10. Jul 5, 2013 at 10:03 PM
    #10
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

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    They work. Just don't work as much as you'd think.

    And true. All depends on your needs. My system was 2700w rms plus I have like..30ish lights. I'm running dual batteries tho.
     
    Kittenmittens4U likes this.
  11. Jul 5, 2013 at 11:57 PM
    #11
    smkd13

    smkd13 Professional Idiot

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    Capacitor can help but they are there to smooth voltage on a quick high drain. Like on a low note. I ran a cap and single battery in my previous rig and it worked for the most part but when I was able to move to a dual battery system it worked much better.

    Doing the Big 3 wire upgrade is worth while as it can handle more current. Simple that is all it does. Plus larger ha wire has a lower "internal resistance".

    500 watts is not huge and a battery and 1 farad cap will work fine but a good capacitor will run you 100-175 buck (buy quality!!!). A second battery will run you 150-250. Not much difference in price for the actual gains from a second battery. Electrical systems only pull what they need, not what is there (potential stored energy). You can run two starting type batteries without hurting them much. Isolator a are needed mainly for a starter / deep cycle setup.

    Simple invest in a battery ad if you really want a capacitor I have a 1Farad Memphis I will basically give to you if you want it (you pay shipping). Good luck with your endeavor
     
  12. Jul 6, 2013 at 10:52 AM
    #12
    Shadetree

    Shadetree Well-Known Member

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    Electrolytic capacitors are used to supply additional power when it is required by the amps to produce heavy bases because they will react faster than the electrochemical reaction of battery, especially when it is cold. You can add extra capacitance by adding capacitors in parallel. Surplus electronics stores will sell electrolytic capacitors for less. Military grade capacitors will offer the best quality and temperature range.
     
  13. May 10, 2022 at 3:27 AM
    #13
    ParadiseCruser

    ParadiseCruser New Member

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    it says 60 amps for both the 4 and 6 cylinder
     
  14. May 10, 2022 at 11:53 AM
    #14
    alexh

    alexh Well-Known Member

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    I'm trying to get my truck as reliable as possible for some upcoming trips..almost there but I'm on original alternator and have not changed the brushes (275k miles). I'm sure the OEM alternators are very good but everything has its limit.

    Is this unit a good choice, don't really want to do any mods since I have so many repairs to do. I have a Odyssey batt so the higher voltage is probably a good thing. Comments say output is exaggerated but that does not concern me (or surprise me).

    Or just change the brushes in my current OEM?

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AY28M8G?smid=A1VKPCUL86V2OF

    Edit - looked at the Amazon comments again and one guy said he had the unit bench tested and it was 160 amps at 2000 rpm so other commenters probably dont know what they are doing.
     
    Last edited: May 10, 2022
  15. May 11, 2022 at 9:58 AM
    #15
    treyus30

    treyus30 70% complete 70% of the time

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    I'd trust the GM upgrade over that. Only 3 washers required to fit.
     
  16. May 11, 2022 at 1:53 PM
    #16
    e.deCastro

    e.deCastro Well-Known Member

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    when you do the alternator to the battery do you go straight or through the fuse in the fuse box?
     
  17. May 11, 2022 at 2:04 PM
    #17
    treyus30

    treyus30 70% complete 70% of the time

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    Technically you should get an inline fuse and rewire it to the battery since the fuse box terminals won't be sized for double the amps. I just ran some 0AWG CCA directly since it was such a short jump. Figured the extra foot of protection was an unnecessary hassle.
     
    e.deCastro[QUOTED] likes this.
  18. May 11, 2022 at 2:07 PM
    #18
    e.deCastro

    e.deCastro Well-Known Member

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    thank you. i will use a circuit breaker. just don't want to have a million wires hanging
    off my battery.
     
    treyus30[QUOTED] likes this.
  19. May 11, 2022 at 2:10 PM
    #19
    e.deCastro

    e.deCastro Well-Known Member

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    one more thing, i'm not near my truck, where is the ground from the battery to the frame? should i just make a new one? or is it easily accessible?
     
  20. May 11, 2022 at 2:28 PM
    #20
    treyus30

    treyus30 70% complete 70% of the time

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    Right next to it. I upgraded it to 4awg iirc.
     

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