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Alternator Amperage?/Check My Math, stock alternator and battery

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by hamNswiss on rye, Oct 21, 2015.

  1. Oct 21, 2015 at 5:57 PM
    #1
    hamNswiss on rye

    hamNswiss on rye [OP] ¡Yo Quiero Taco World!

    Joined:
    Dec 18, 2010
    Member:
    #47858
    Messages:
    908
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Nick
    Scottsdale, AZ/Portland, ME
    Vehicle:
    '07 4x4 Access Cab
    OME 885's and billies all around, allpro apex front bumper, Nfab tire carrier, black magic rallye 1000 driving lights, custom back to the future light rack, KC LED Daylighters, PIAA 510 fogs, bed lights, satoshi, 285/70/17 Duratracs
    Hey gents, so I'm looking to pick up some KC Daylighters and I've decided its probably a good idea to start doing some math as to not overload my alternator/battery. Firstly, I haven't found a concrete answer to the total amperage output of the alternator in my 2007 base model V6 (no tow package). I've read its around 100a, but no confirmation. Further, anyone know how many amps i can expect the truck to draw at normal usage? in 4x4? Also, my total usage math is below; looks correct right? assuming my battery voltage stays between 13.7-14.1v?

    Driving Lights: 110w=7.8-8.1a
    Fog Lights: 110w=7.8-8.1a
    CB: 4w= .28-.3a
    Stereo: 50w= 3.5-3.7a
    Bed lights: 110w=7.8-8.1a
    Daylighters: 520w= 36.8-37.9a

    Total: 63.96-66.2a

    Now its very, very unlikely that I'd use all of these at once, but id rather see what my max output is and see if i'll be under that. Thanks for any help,
    Nick
     
  2. Oct 21, 2015 at 7:13 PM
    #2
    RobertHyatt

    RobertHyatt You just can't fix stupid...

    Joined:
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    Robert
    Birmingham AL
    Vehicle:
    2007 Tacoma Prerunner SR5
    You are on the right track. But I assume you are doing the "amps = watts / volts" calculation?? With the volts = 14 roughly as an assumption? That's OK for the light bulbs, although if you notice, your headlights vary in brightness as you change the voltage (IE engine off vs engine on) so you can't quite assume 100w period. No idea what that 100w light might have been tested at, voltage-wise, but it will almost certainly be closer to 12.4-12.6 volts than 14+, which means you will probably be safer if you just divide wattage by 12.0.

    For audio, it is different. For a 50 watt output, assuming 100 watts burned won't be far off. There is no 100% efficient amp on the planet. That's why they produce a lot of heat and have all those heat sinks on the output power transistors...

    You CAN find a good DC ammeter. Crank your truck FIRST, then disconnect one battery post and connect that ammeter between the post and the cable. Now you can discover exactly what the current draw is with the truck running and the alternator helping out...
     
  3. Oct 22, 2015 at 11:31 PM
    #3
    hamNswiss on rye

    hamNswiss on rye [OP] ¡Yo Quiero Taco World!

    Joined:
    Dec 18, 2010
    Member:
    #47858
    Messages:
    908
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Nick
    Scottsdale, AZ/Portland, ME
    Vehicle:
    '07 4x4 Access Cab
    OME 885's and billies all around, allpro apex front bumper, Nfab tire carrier, black magic rallye 1000 driving lights, custom back to the future light rack, KC LED Daylighters, PIAA 510 fogs, bed lights, satoshi, 285/70/17 Duratracs
    Thank you for the response, anyone else wanting to chime in please do...still curious about this. Though I may be biting the financial bullet and going with LEDs and just not have to worry about it.
     

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