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Alternatives for BED TIE DOWNS? Need more tie down spots.

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by evilcorvette, Apr 18, 2016.

  1. Apr 18, 2016 at 8:37 PM
    #1
    evilcorvette

    evilcorvette [OP] Well-Known Member

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    oderus urungus
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    Gents, I need some more bed tie downs. The 2 at the rear of the bed just arent enough. Im constantly finding myself needing to lash down small to medium sided items, and there just isnt a good way to secure them to the bed. Are their any aftermarket options that may make use of those torx mounting bolts? Theres gotta be something....??
     
  2. Apr 18, 2016 at 8:42 PM
    #2
    cyakker

    cyakker Well-Known Member

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    Doesn't make use of existing Torx fitting... but a bunch of L-track mounted w/ rivnuts is a great custom designed as-you-need approach.
     
  3. Apr 18, 2016 at 8:53 PM
    #3
    steelhd

    steelhd Well-Known Member

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  4. Apr 18, 2016 at 8:59 PM
    #4
    ppham444

    ppham444 Well-Known Member

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  5. Apr 18, 2016 at 10:13 PM
    #5
    Mad Man Marty

    Mad Man Marty Well-Known Member

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    the mopar part is much more heavy duty. I installed 4 extra clips. I think I used washers also. Do a search here. Lots of info.
     
  6. Apr 18, 2016 at 10:36 PM
    #6
    IronPeak

    IronPeak PermaLurker

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    This is the way to go. Very strong, very cheap.

    20160418_223300.jpg 20160418_225806.jpg 20160418_223249.jpg
    This is the way to go...get military surplus d rings , seat them under the bed bolts that hold the bed down to the frame, there are six unused ones in he bed.

    The d rings hole needs to be bored out a tiny so the bed bolts fit through the hole, and you will need torx55 bit and a torque wrench... I added 6 in the bed, then backed out the bolts holding on the side rails and hung some there. I didnt need to bore those out, as the bolts are smaller..
    These rings have 800lb working load, 2400lb strength. ..last pic shows factory and aftermarket, second hanging from side rail system. They swing out not lay flat like in the pic.

    Now have 10 tie downs in the bed, and 6 in the rails, 3 on each side, not including the rail system cleats. More than enough, and adequate for very heavy loads. I'm able to crank down my atv suspension so it doesn't move at all, plus there is multi tie downs, so if one, or more fail that atv isn't going anywhere... very reassuring.

    Great for securing atv so it doesn't break back window ( 600$+) don't ask me how I kno

    http://frankcarparts.com/p/Nozzles/...olt-On-14-Surface-Mount-D-Ring-2400-Rated.php

    P.s. these guys have then at 1.70$.... so if u own / can borrow the torx55 bit and own or can borrow a torque wrench and just do the 6 bed bolts were talking 10.02$!!!!!!!! Amazon has em too at around 20$for ten , see post below
     
    Last edited: Apr 21, 2016
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  7. Apr 21, 2016 at 2:33 PM
    #7
    ReidStylez

    ReidStylez Well-Known Member

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    The factory bed bolts fit through the hole on these without modification?
     
  8. Apr 21, 2016 at 3:03 PM
    #8
    IronPeak

    IronPeak PermaLurker

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    No you need to ream the hole in the flat part of the dring with a step bit, or trash a regular bit or two or three....reaming the hole...do so, give a shot of paint . I found this mod on here many years ago and have performed it on both my trucks, ... if you choose to hang rings from the side bed rails no reaming is required, however those tiedown will only work at a say 75° downward angle .. still better than the cleats, which really aren't appropriate for trying anything heavy down
    ... the bed bolts are the really useful ones. I've cranked my ATV suspension down so much that it doesnt budge an inch on trails or the freeway

    Be careful with the Torx bit removing the bolts, easy to strip and you will probably need a breaker bar ( or a piece of pipe, whatever)on one or two stubborn ones.

    P.s. RIP prince
     
    Last edited: Apr 22, 2016
  9. Apr 21, 2016 at 3:18 PM
    #9
    IronPeak

    IronPeak PermaLurker

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    20160418_225826.jpg Hey plus I'm no expert here let's make that clear, I'm sure by boring them out, and whatever angle you crank something down to it would affect the strength, but they say 800lbs working and 2400 breaking, and I've def had some VERY HEAVY loads on them like think suspension bottoming out body rolling etc, regularly for 10 years..lumber, atvs motorcycles etc. remember the loads are spread out of course.. but YMMV...

    My experience, this is the BOMB


    RIP PRINCE
     
    Last edited: Apr 21, 2016
  10. Apr 21, 2016 at 3:38 PM
    #10
    Crom

    Crom Super-Deluxe Member

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    Here is a mini dump of pics from my build thread. Hopefully it helps you.

    Drill some holes in the bed and lay down some l-track.

    They are mounted between the ribs of the truck bed. They are almost flush with the adjacent ribs, it's about 90% flush. I I had everything bolted in, I put back the bed mat and cut it. I strategically thought this out and I wanted 12" sections of the L-Track. For each 12" section there are three mounting bolts. I used all stainless hardware, 3/4" flat head machine screws, nylon luck nuts and 1+1/4" fender washers.

    DSC01572_108fa9941b9daeea9a253d6aa4a10d91897d69af.jpg

    DSC01570_4576e5aa09ac154993daa00a4ce9887597822432.jpg

    DSC02169_f9654300dc798bc11dad1a1f15f205b51ce2e20c.jpg


    Here it is with the bed mat put back and holes cut, My 4.5 year old daughter helped me every step of the way.


    DSC01568_a54618be6840e1ebed3d621ab848e0bd92580d26.jpg

    I store the cargo fittings in the back of the truck until they're needed and move them. So easy.

    DSC02190_fc51dbcebe332baf4e6ea247c250bc5f9e8821b1.jpg

    I mounted some L-Track to the front of the bed, for this I had to use special rivnuts for plastics.
    DSC02187_c24a5d598e638c756b8c1658efa802d6b2ea91b2.jpg

    Hole pattern transferred and drilled:
    DSC02285_28d0bfd73504a51f1803c7c02913db1c46d1cf2a.jpg

    I held the nuts with a wrench from below and my wonderful helpful wife turned the screws with a ratchet. I used a bit of silicone under the track to form a gasket, as I didn't want any dust or debris between track and truck bed.


    DSC02289_d7698281f9c816628f33632fe68322a01a6f4c0e.jpg

    Test fitting one of our camping totes.
    DSC02300_ce66e1f7dbea9aea5c9f98329fa9f508472bbd2b.jpg

    Nothing moves; ever.
    DSC03000_bfeb603d8229cee41b1e30b6a52beb24c202b9c6.jpg
     
  11. Apr 21, 2016 at 3:40 PM
    #11
    DrFunker

    DrFunker Well-Known Member

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    ^^^ This will give you all you need and more. :D

    Also.... @LUSETACO
     
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  12. Apr 21, 2016 at 3:43 PM
    #12
    Crom

    Crom Super-Deluxe Member

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    I hate the proprietary c-channel that Toyota uses. If I had more time I would pull it all out and replace it with heavy duty l-track.

    But this works too. Eye-bolts.

    In Jan 2013 I needed some reliable tie down points and decided to put some eye bolts in the Tacoma rail system.

    I used some Grizzly G9513 - T-Slot Nuts, pk. of 4, 9/16" Slot, 3/8" - 16 for the proprietary Toyota track. I found some 3/16 x1/2" eye bolts at local home depot and grade 8 washers. They have served me really well when I needed to tie off a load.

    Over time I figured out optimal places for the eye bolts and I have not had to move them in a few years.

    20130119_153700_1bb7eabf3d1d3302d906e63aca02d4566079cc70.jpg

    20130119_161311_2e347a2289fcd3afcc2eb74aa10e7a239bf3dba8.jpg

    20130119_161414_69e40a4dadce0222c450549c327fd1e16f0ad1ad.jpg
     
  13. Apr 21, 2016 at 3:47 PM
    #13
    LUSETACO

    LUSETACO Here for the Taco Pron

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    You son of a....
     
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  14. Apr 21, 2016 at 3:50 PM
    #14
    DrFunker

    DrFunker Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]
     
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  15. Apr 21, 2016 at 3:56 PM
    #15
    LUSETACO

    LUSETACO Here for the Taco Pron

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  16. Apr 21, 2016 at 4:56 PM
    #16
    IronPeak

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  17. Apr 21, 2016 at 7:59 PM
    #17
    Zach O

    Zach O Well-Known Member

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    This is awesome! I need to do this. Where did you get the L-track and tiedowns from? I looked online but didn't see the tiedowns you have.
     
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  18. Apr 21, 2016 at 8:28 PM
    #18
    Crom

    Crom Super-Deluxe Member

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  19. Apr 21, 2016 at 9:16 PM
    #19
    nd4spdbh

    nd4spdbh Well-Known Member

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    If you dont need to go as cool n crazy as @Crom Go with the mopar / dodge sprinter d rings. Threw 4 of them on my bed bolts in my truck and they are kick ass, I use em all the time (mainly the middle ones) and they fold out of the way when necessary, and were cheap, I picked them up at the dodge dealer for like 4 bucks a piece.

    What was funny was when i showed up to the dodge dealer in my very muddy sweet looking tacoma... they literally asked me, go park it around back we cant have your truck be seen up here like that. Freaking dodge.... oh and the "made in usa" placards for the jeep branded stuff had a lil * and in the fine print it stated "made in usa is in reference to the dana axles and not the entire vehicle"
     
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  20. Apr 21, 2016 at 9:33 PM
    #20
    IronPeak

    IronPeak PermaLurker

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    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/installed-d-rings-in-the-bed-pics.28533/

    Old thread with instructions d ring install, if you want follow the method that I did, follow this link.Also in my opinion and experience the military drings are superior to the toyota OEM ones.prime and paint everything because there can be some rust issues on the bolts with or without the drings installed

    This current thread has shown me there is many ways to mod your tacoma bed area to your different needs. Me, I went with cheap and strong, but boy @Crom your build looks great for camping / expedition /wheeling and with the different ways to configure it. I guess, as with any mod you weigh your budget, needs, skill level and then go for it when you find that sweet spot that works for you .
     
    Last edited: Apr 22, 2016
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