AIR System Pump Stuck Off Bank 1 (P2445)

What's up everyone! After some reading I've noticed a lot of people have come across this issue on Tacoma's and Tundra's, and I believe it's made it's way to me. Did a cold start leaving work at about 5am Sunday morning, noticed when I get in the truck I had a traction off/check engine light. Appears this is 'limp mode' for the Taco's as I was unable to do anything above 2500 RPM.

Seems these things fail a lot, however I just want a second opinion before I start throwing parts at it.

> Pulled the cover off the pump, fan blades look fine, filter seems fine.
> Took bottom half of the pump off (not sure what it's called) and dumped some lovely looking black dust out of it.

> Checked/tested all fuses related, all working fine.
> Disconnected pump and scanned again and it gave a circuit A relay code, which tells me the wire harness/fuses should be fine.

Took a video of it while starting/stopping to see if anything seemed odd, and got some interesting results.

Right before this video I turned engine off and the blades actually spun and made that typical noise like it was pushing the moisture out, when I started recording and did the start/stop's you can see the blades barely try and turn (3 seconds into video), but that's about all it does.

Going to assume this is a failed pump, Amazon has some for about $80 compared to $800 on the dealer, any thoughts on that would be greatly appreciated!

UPDATE: Replaced SAI pump with OEM pump and haven’t had an issue in over 2 years.

 

Sounds like you tested all the right stuff although I can't say how good a cheap aftermarket pump will be, I know some people on here have used them with good results but how long they will last who knows.

 

Gonna run with the aftermarket one with 1 year warranty now and see how it goes lol. Worse case scenario I push back the $800 cost for another year lmao. Appreciate it!

 

Hope your replacement went smoothly and still error code free. I wanted to chime in and add that if replacing is the rout owners want to go to resolve these error codes make sure to use Factory/OEM components. Aftermarket parts are cheap for a reason and will cost you more in the long run when the codes trip again. Another alternative the Bypass Kit this not only addresses fault codes but prevents them from tripping again in the future. If you had any questions do not hesitate to contact us.

How to Fix Secondary Air Injection System?
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-do-you-fix-the-secondary-air-injection-system.780849/

 

Is the aftermarket pump doing fine? if so, where did you source it from?

 

It's not terribly hard to remove and clean the original valve -- I'd recommend the junkyard (or ebay) if it's truly toast. It's where one would wind up if an aftermarket pump failed anyways. a full assembly runs around $100.

 

Is there a way to know the issue is indeed the pump before replacing it? vs another component? For instance, could hoses be removed, then run engine and should a working pump be outputting air at all times?

 

The pump should only run on a cold start for about 30 secs, it won't run any other time.

You can supply power and ground to the pump and see if it runs.

 

You can also check out the pump's filter, or what's left of it. If it crumbles in your hands, you can feel confident that said filter crumbles wound up in the valve, adding upon the carbon deposits

 

Are you referring to the valve of the pump, or an engine valve? I see the air intake on the pump, but nothing that resembles a filter. (2006 Tacoma)

 

Apologies, the nomenclature eluded me. The, uhm. Secondary air injection switching valve The junkyard just refers to it as a smog pump assembly, then asks: "Do you want the pump, the valve, or the whole thing?"

Here's a pic from my thread on servicing the system:


On the pump, you see my aftermarket replacement filter. Previously, it had a circular plastic cowl that.. Was hard to pry off gently (a two-screwdriver affair). And that old cowl had within it a flat foam filter.
Kidding. It had mouse bedding in it.

It was so bad that, when I'd found it years back, I thought it was a stuck piece of debris and promptly threw it away. My mechanic brain told me it was too well-stuck in there to be garbage, but my beer brain said: trash is trash, even if it's hung on a wall in a museum.

 

Took the cover off my pump today. No debris in it, but it's definitely frozen up, couple fins broken off, and the bottom rubber cover had rusty water in it. So it will get replaced. (now wishing I had taken pics). Will likely get an after market off the big website.

Before I finished though, I decided to verify voltage was getting to the pump. Interestingly, it was 10 volts. (9.95-10.04). Voltage at battery was 13.58. I have no idea is this is normal or not, but seemed a bit odd, was expecting closer to 12v.

 

That's wacky -- the fan in my 09 looked practically new. For yours to be busted, I really don't know how that'd happen. I hope you consider checking out the valve too.

I'll see about checking voltage to that there fan. I'd expect battery voltage too, but hey, maybe it's reduced for some reason.
If you strike out ordering a replacement, you can likely just check out other yotas in the junkyard.

 

the bottom part of the housing had water in it, around the pump motor, so am guessing maybe it rusted and the shaft or something broke, then fan blade jammed.

I'm going to replace the pump first, and see what codes clear, and if any other codes appear then go from there. The valve is a bigger undertaking.