1. Welcome to Tacoma World!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tacoma discussion topics
    • Communicate privately with other Tacoma owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

Aftermarket Replacement for Wheel Speed Sensor?

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by rjohnso2, Nov 8, 2020.

  1. Nov 8, 2020 at 4:24 PM
    #1
    rjohnso2

    rjohnso2 [OP] Member

    Joined:
    May 24, 2020
    Member:
    #329207
    Messages:
    23
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Robert
    Vehicle:
    2008 Tacoma V6 4WD 6 Speed Manual
    Hey everyone, my 08 Tacoma recently failed inspection for the brake light and ABS light coming on. Stealership diagnosed it as a problem with the LR Wheel Speed Sensor. The repair estimate was $394.84 with the sensor itself coming close to $300 if I am remembering correctly. Just wondering if anyone has attempted to go aftermarket with these sensors with good success. Which brand would you guys recommend? Want something that will work in the long run, but if it works fine on the cheap all the better! I'm seeing some really inexpensive ones on Ebay and all different price ranges on RockAuto.
     
    This site contains affiliate links for which the site may be compensated.
    #1
  2. Nov 8, 2020 at 5:00 PM
    #2
    TnShooter

    TnShooter The TacomaWorld Stray

    Joined:
    Sep 2, 2010
    Member:
    #42625
    Messages:
    20,850
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Deogee
    Vehicle:
    07' TRD Off-Road, Auto
    STOCK
    I believe @Muddinfun used the Beck Arnely ones in the front.
     
    rjohnso2[OP] likes this.
  3. Nov 8, 2020 at 5:14 PM
    #3
    Muddinfun

    Muddinfun Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2017
    Member:
    #216500
    Messages:
    7,489
    Wheel speed sensors don’t generally just go bad. There’s not much to them, but OEM sensors are about $200 each. A failing wheel bearing can destroy a sensor or they can break when you’re trying to remove them. It’s much more common on the rear for the harness to get damaged.

    I broke both of my front sensors trying to remove them. Rust builds up outside the O ring and they don’t come out. There are cheap Chinese sensors on ebay for about $25/pair shipped. I wasn’t willing to take a chance so I bought Beck Arnley from Rock Auto for about $90 each.
     
    This site contains affiliate links for which the site may be compensated.
    #3
    12TRDTacoma and TnShooter like this.
  4. Nov 8, 2020 at 5:18 PM
    #4
    zippsub9

    zippsub9 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 3, 2014
    Member:
    #141634
    Messages:
    4,531
    Gender:
    Male
    Halfmoon, NY
    Vehicle:
    14 DCLB
    Shit bolted onto other shit, and junk.
    I have some OEM in my garage if you need some. I also have an extra ABS ECU and an extra rear wiring harness, don’t ask, you all know the answer why I have all this extra shit. It all works, my issue was clocking of the sensor on the rear axle. There is no pulse ring on the second Gen it is an integrated Hall effect sensor into the bearing. The sensor cannot be adjusted from where it sits period. This wouldn’t affect you with a stock rear axle. Just let me know.
     
    This site contains affiliate links for which the site may be compensated.
    #4
    TnShooter likes this.
  5. Nov 8, 2020 at 5:23 PM
    #5
    zippsub9

    zippsub9 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 3, 2014
    Member:
    #141634
    Messages:
    4,531
    Gender:
    Male
    Halfmoon, NY
    Vehicle:
    14 DCLB
    Shit bolted onto other shit, and junk.
    In addition, before you trust their diagnosis I would flip the sensor from side to side and confirm it is in fact the sensor. Therefore, you should get a RR Speed Sensor Fault of their diagnosis is correct. You would need someone near you with Techstream or at least a bootleg version to check it. If you pay the dealer to replace may sure they guarantee their diagnosis, this is a 9 step process in the FSM and they should validate the sensor with a multimeter as well before asking you to pull out your wallet.
     
    This site contains affiliate links for which the site may be compensated.
    #5
  6. Nov 8, 2020 at 5:27 PM
    #6
    hoarder23

    hoarder23 Truck fell over

    Joined:
    Aug 14, 2012
    Member:
    #84787
    Messages:
    12,865
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Shay
    NJ
    Vehicle:
    15 Pyrite Mica DCSB Sport
    Scratches
    If OP doesn't take you up on your offer I have a broken front sensor that is throwing I code that I need to replace.
     
  7. Nov 8, 2020 at 5:31 PM
    #7
    TnShooter

    TnShooter The TacomaWorld Stray

    Joined:
    Sep 2, 2010
    Member:
    #42625
    Messages:
    20,850
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Deogee
    Vehicle:
    07' TRD Off-Road, Auto
    STOCK
    Hopefully OP doesn’t need a front.
    The dealer says he needs a Left Rear.

    :fingerscrossed:
     
  8. Nov 8, 2020 at 5:37 PM
    #8
    hoarder23

    hoarder23 Truck fell over

    Joined:
    Aug 14, 2012
    Member:
    #84787
    Messages:
    12,865
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Shay
    NJ
    Vehicle:
    15 Pyrite Mica DCSB Sport
    Scratches
    I don't read good
     
  9. Nov 8, 2020 at 5:38 PM
    #9
    Muddinfun

    Muddinfun Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2017
    Member:
    #216500
    Messages:
    7,489
    Here is how you can check ABS codes yourself.

    Check for codes and go from there.

    First, connect terminal 4 and 13 of the OBD-II socket (under the dash in front of your left knee) with a jumper wire. (Those are the 4th from the left on the top and the fifth from the left on the bottom.)

    Turn the ignition to on. You'll notice lots of flashing lights, but just pay attention to the ABS light. Normally, it should be rapidly and steadily flashing, twice per second. If it has stored a trouble code, it will instead be flashing a pattern that will coding a two-digit number. There may be more than one code being flashed out. It will just repeat the code over and over, so you have plenty of time to figure it out and write it (them) down.

    NOW you can clear the codes. Just tap the brakes rapidly 8 or more times,about two taps per second. You don't have to jam on the brakes, just tap them enough to blink the brake lights. Ifyou're successful, the ABS light should return to its normal fast blinking. Now remove the jumper wire, and finally turn off the key.

    Now when you turn on the key, the ABS light should just do its normal light for three seconds and go off. If it comesback on, you still have a problem

    As for the sensors, they’re different side to sides. LF and LR are the same. RF and RR are the same. Trying to swap sensors there’s the possibility of breaking them when you try to remove them.

    I’m pretty sure it’s possible to swap the rear harness connectors at the axle. I think they’ll reach the wrong side. Swap them, attempt to clear codes and then see if you get a code for the other side. Obviously don’t go out and do a panic stop with the harnesses swapped.
     
    rjohnso2[OP] and TnShooter like this.
  10. Nov 8, 2020 at 6:26 PM
    #10
    rjohnso2

    rjohnso2 [OP] Member

    Joined:
    May 24, 2020
    Member:
    #329207
    Messages:
    23
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Robert
    Vehicle:
    2008 Tacoma V6 4WD 6 Speed Manual
    Thanks for the feedback everyone. Really appreciate all that great info. The sensor was damaged and broke off when I tried to take it out. Had a good time getting it out after that but got it done after drilling a hole and pulling it out with it. I'll take that OEM sensor you have zipp, just let me know how to get it from you.
     
  11. Nov 8, 2020 at 8:42 PM
    #11
    zippsub9

    zippsub9 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 3, 2014
    Member:
    #141634
    Messages:
    4,531
    Gender:
    Male
    Halfmoon, NY
    Vehicle:
    14 DCLB
    Shit bolted onto other shit, and junk.

    I sent a message in a PM. Just check your inbox, shoot me your address and I will get it out. I have two others as well, both rear though. They are the exact same left and right just oriented inboard and outboard for the plug. However, they will work interchangeably on either side your plug just won’t look as clean if someone is in a bind and needs the opposite side of what I have left.
     
    rjohnso2[QUOTED][OP] likes this.

Products Discussed in

To Top