Aftermarket lower control arms - which one is better?

Looks like you already got them, but we use Beck/Arnley when we replace UCA's in our shop, and have never had an issue. I personally have Moog on my truck for the last 3-4 years and have also never had an issue, and I've jumped my truck on 35s etc.

What cam hardware are you using? SPC?

 

I know this is a done deal but having just rebuilt my UCA's and LCA's (Energy Suspension & Proforged) let me say, this is not a bump and run project. For your average R&R driveway mechanic with "basic" tools buy complete assemblies. Just doing an R&R on all 4 is a Saturday 4-beer day with basic tools and there are many video walk throughs. If you can get aftermarket parts for $500 and you get 40-50K miles, run and don't look back. It is all you, your pocket book and skinned-up knuckles need. JMO

 

Pressing bushings and balljoints can be a huge pain in the ass for sure. If you can get a coupon for one of the harbor freight H-frame presses and perhaps the balljoint replacement kit (you can use the cups it comes with in conjunction with the press for a lot of bushings as well) it can make it a lot easier. Still much harder than just swapping out the complete part for sure though.

 

Oh yea, I have a 12 ton press, bent the hell out of the HF BJ "C" clamp press doing the BJ's on my old 4x4 Ranger and still had to go buy the HF decated Master BJ adapter set. Seriously, I tried everything including grinding up galvanized plumbing couplings to fit. Could not have gotten the job done without the HF adapters and pieces from the "C" clamp set. Now we can talk about burning out the bushings and cleaning up the hardware to install the Energy Suspension poly. I know of which I speak. LOL.

 

I have only done about 4k miles/6k km since I replaced them and they are holding up fine, should probably get some pics. I wouldn't expect them to fall apart that soon, so time will tell

 

Not sure what is cam hardware, but I do have upper SPC control arms and for lower I bought new OEM inserts (adjustment sleeves).

 

Now that I have "spare" OEM LCAs I might go this route when/if these fail. But I would buy brand new parts as I did again if I didn't have spares.

 

I just swapped to Delphi from stock, I like it! Went off a jump and felt the same, I do notice when I crank it all the way right it kinda sounds like a rubbing sound but not really ? I can’t tell yet, maybe it’s just the sound of it since it’s cheap, it only makes the sound when backing up really full crank

 

For 364$ and 183$ labor in Mexico. I think it’s a great deal lol

 

good choice going beck arnley in most cases they are toyotas oem provider ik this as i work for toyota parts, if i ever have to source aftermarket parts i go with them first as its very common to see toyota oem part numbers stamped on beck arnley products meaning they just reboxed oem. if you ever have the option of beck arnely go for it!

 

I’ve got about 50k miles on a set of Moogs with zero issue.

 

Every OEM is garbage. What’s nice is fabricated. I can’t afford fabricated.

so I bought new arms like $30/ea from China.

because it would not be wise to overpay $300 on marked up stamped cheapshit

 

BeckArnley 102-6429 and

$151 102-6431 Control Arm with Ball Joint

102-6431 for a 4WD 4.0L 2013?
$86 ea on Amazon.

 

Update.

Truck failed inspection because of a bad lower ball joint



No boot damage. No noise. No indication until I unbolted the spindle and shook the steering stop. Manufacturing error? No enough grease? Hard to say.

Passenger side was fine.

Not sure how it got so bad or when.

Would I still purchase Moog LCAs?

Yes.

For 100$ a pop. I got about 3 years/50k miles of abuse out of them. 30$ a pop and about 30 minutes of my time a side to replace the ball joint, they are still worth it I think.

The bushings are still holding up solid and aren’t frozen.

 

To be fair, I’m on this thread because my 3rd Gen LCA bushing and ball joints are toast with only 45k miles and no harsh off-roading.

 

Has anyone ever tried the Autozone "Duralast" arms with limited lifetime warranty?

 

Do you have any proof to share with us since you are so strong on that stance? Tacoma frames have been rotting out faster than other truck brands on model years since the late 90s, what makes you say that Toyota really cares about the quality of their OEM parts versus an aftermarket company??

 

I work at a Toyota dealership, so I get to see aftermarket junk failing at much higher rates than OEM every day. Remember, OEM parts need to last at least until the original warranty runs out. Aftermarket? You might want to check that out. You'll find that their warranty is significantly shorter - which explains how their manufacturing costs are lower, so their prices are lower, and the parts don't last as long.

As for actual proof, I'll offer my favorite true story. I was asked to deliver an OEM Toyota Tacoma Intermediate Steering Shaft to a local shop. They had quoted a price to replace an original one with a Dorman part and the customer balked when they said the Dorman part was just as good as OEM. The customer was there when I walked in, and we plopped both parts on the front counter. The Dorman part looked like a toy compared to the OEM part leading to some red faces at the shop. Yes, they put in the new OEM part.

As for the frames, yes, that's an issue. Do you know of an aftermarket frame supplier that makes better frames so we can compare them?

So yes, I'm unabashedly pro OEM. Most folks don't get to see the difference between OEM and aftermarket parts like I do. It really opened my eyes.

 

Probably doesn't help you much....but I put Duralast LCAs on my daughter car 3 years ago. No issues

 

Strictly control arms are you claiming that the ball joint or bushing might wear out sooner than an OEM part on say a Moog part or are you going so far as to say the Moog control arm is going to break in half.