Advice on Krown rust proofing needed, thanks!

Greetings to all, heading to Krown tomorrow afternoon to have the rust preventative maintenance done.
I plan on taking my spare off, should I take the skid plate off as well? Not sure if the fluid/oil they use is harsh on the exposed components, electrical harnesses….

What’s the curing time look like?
Toyota states that the front of our frames are plugged when they service the frame (part of their rust proofing treatment), I missed the deadline and they want a $1000.00 for the job, fudge that. Have any of y’all plugged these two holes (front of frame) if so how did y’all go about it. They said they do this to keep snow slush mixed with salt from being forced in and reeking havoc.
Any advice or further insights are much appreciated, thank you!

 

For sure take your skid plates off, plus the spare tire down. That way they can spray as much as possible.

I believe the frame plugs Toyota uses are just the plastic snap-in kind. Im sure you could find suitable ones online if you measure the dimensions of the hole. Might even be able to find the Toyota P/N if you look around hard enough. That being said, stuff is still going to get in the frame no matter what. So the most important part is to make sure the inside section of the frame gets a good coating

 

I spray mine every yr. and never needed to remove anything but the spare. Since the place that’s doing it probably has all sorts of attachments for getting into the nooks and crannies, I wouldn’t worry about it.

I can get in there from both sides with compressor set at 100 psi and fog the hell out of that area.

It’s all up to the guy pulling the trigger and his procedure.

 

I recently had the full Krown treatment done to my 2006 Scion xB. (And you think you were late?) Although there is no (Krown) warranty on a 2013 vehicle, it sure beats a sharp stick in the eye. In my opinion, the best thing you could really do is remove any heavily scaled rust. Toyota dealerships use a set of long wire brushes on a drill to get the scale out of the inside of the boxed sections of your frame.

I will warn you about one thing. Let your vehicle idle in the parking lot for a good 10-15 minutes after you first pick it up. If you don't, you'll have everybody on the road around you frantically waving trying to tell you your truck is on fire as the stuff burns off your exhaust. Ask me how I know that.

 

I’m not so sure about plugging any holes. I think this is a band aide approach by Toyota again. Kind of like there 1st approach of undercoating where they sprayed the exterior frame with that rubberized coating.

I think movement of air in those boxed sections of frame is important in the drying process. Once you prevent air movement you induce condensation which is probably why these frames rust out near the cats anyway from the inside out. Spray inside the box sections with your choice of undercoating and let the movement of air help.

 

The only thing I might take issue with is the use of traditional rubberized undercoating inside the box sections of the frame. (Actually, I don't agree with using that product anywhere, but that's a whole different rant.) I would very much suggest and oil-based product such as Krown, Fluid Film, Woolwax and even the new "whale sperm" Toyota dealerships are using. These products go on somewhat fluid and thus creep into very small spaces when first applied and then continue to "self heal" as time goes on. They also displace moisture. That's about as good as it's going to get for protection.

 

CorrosionX HD or their Marine version.

https://www.berkebileoil.com/product-information.html

https://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/rust-bullet

 

No curing time for Krown. It will drip until the excess stops dripping (applied generously it can take a few days), creep and cling to any applied surface. The idea is it doesn't dry out and acts as a protective barrier to repel the moisture. Been using it for 20 or so years and in my humble opinion, it does work. When you take it in, ask them to pay particular attention to the inside of the frame. My '05 Tundra frame (same rust issue as the Tacoma) and body still look good.

Cheers.

 

You may want to add an extension to your air conditioning drain tube so it drains around the right frame rail because the way it's set up by Toyota it drains on the frame rail.

 

Thanks everyone! Krown is doing their thing as I type this, appreciate all the posts. I must say I’m already impressed, they have nice facilities, comfy waiting rooms with coffee and snacks, and a real time video-feed of the technician servicing my truck. $150.00 for peace of mind, can’t beat that.

 

Howdy all,

Just added a 2005 to my little crew. My 2003 has been unbelievably reliable and with little to no issues with rust. The 2005, however, has bit more rust on the underside than I'd really like (the rest of the truck is in such flawless shape and with low miles, so I bit and bought). Frame looks good and was replaced, but I'd like to do something to keep the rust on the body from getting worse. I could get under there with a wire brush and a grinder and go to town on some of it, maybe hit it with either rustoleum undercoat or the vht rollerbar paint, but I am curious about this service. I live in Virginia, so we don't get a ton of snow/salt on the roads, but this truck looks like it might have been from up north before it found it's way back down here.

If there is already rust, is it too late to go get the service from Krown? Would that be silly? Any other input?

 

It’s oil based so you could get it done for winter. If your frame is just surface rust, just keep doing it every year

 

No, oil based coasting can go right over any rust. That said you do want to knock any big flakes off, and any loose flaky paint. (Maybe a few pictures or your frame would help)

For what its worth, I recently found a product called EvapoRust. Never used it in an automotive setting, but it might be worth looking into. Im surprised I dont hear it mentioned on this forum much.

 

I had bought an 04 back in 2020 with existing rust mostly in the rear end. My spare tire carrier cross member looked hideous. I got a few wire brushes and went to town getting the loose stuff off. I then used Corroseal to turn the rust black in a lot of places (I skipped some). I then used POR15 to cover up the remaining rust. In places with less rust I used rustolem to blend it in with the existing frame paint. I then used Fluid Flim and coated the entire frame. This took a while but after a year, no sign of rust coming back and the fluid film was doing an excellent job. That truck was unfortunately totalled by a falling tree back in September.

 

That's great. Thanks for the input, y'all! I'll post some pics soon.

 

Evaporust works great. However, whatever you're treating it with has to be submerged for it to work correctly. I use it alot on bolts/nuts and small parts.