Advice Needed - Damage remediation from genesis dual battery kit

Hello fellow 3rd genners
I installed a genesis dual battery kit about 2 years ago, and since then its been slowly ripping apart my engine bay.
Although genesis has said this isnt "normal" i dont think these kits were necessarily tested with heavy off road use.

So, i do like this kit a lot, and would like to keep it, minus the damage part, but now i would love some ideas and help on how to fix this damage, and strengthen the area for the battery kit to be reinstalled.

I've attached photos of some of the damage, 3-4 out of the 6 nutserts have broken out of their fastened areas.

If theres anyone in the so-cal area that would like to help me with this project, i've got beer, and money for you.

 

You probably have more damage than that.

 

i took it off a while ago and tried to reinforce with washers and bolts, and it helped a little bit, but i feel like the entire thing is gonna need to have backing plates welded in, but i dont have the right type of welder, or the patience to deal with it, so this is why this thread exists

 

So, you're aware of this?
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/cracked-sheet-metal-above-radiator-body-bushings.636828/

 

yea ive found out that it can be a big issue, which is why im looking for someones help to get this part of the truck closed up so i can focus on other stuff like re-gearing, and fun things like that.

 

It's hard to tell what's going on. Is just the battery tray cracked or has the Tacoma's sheet metal began to give?

 

As I understand it, an engine cage is the ultimate solution. Anything else is just a stopgap.

 

I feel like @EatSleepTacos redid his. Maybe I'm imagining things.

The problem with fixing this, is the crack will probably spread out beyond the reinforcement

 

Yea it's the core support. It can be fixed but basically needs a bracket fabbed that will transfer the battery weight to the frame of the truck.
OP, don't use the word remediation... just the word fix is sufficient.

 

Cracks have to be welded closed, but it has to be done right to terminate the crack. some of what I saw in the other thread on this was not the right way. I would probably back those mount points with some welded in sheet.

The overall problem is batteries are heavy and when set in motion, exert significant kinetic energy against the tray mount points. I can't tell what I am looking at in the pictures, but the general answer is to increase the mounting (load) points, spread the load out and stiffen the tray by bringing mount points down to a structure like the frame that can handle the load. The core support and inner fenders aren't going to tolerate that kind of load well.

Another possibility is to separate the batteries and distribute the load. When I have a minute, I'll look at my own truck to get an idea what's possible.

 

I took a look at my own truck and it looks like the batteries are turned 90 degrees and the new tray mounts to the old location. I think the design may not have been well thought out because it looks as if it hangs the new tray way off the factory mounting pad in two directions. Also, that sheet is really thin. Wow.. I wouldn't do it like that. I think it's too much mass to mount like that and there is no easy way to bring the load to the frame. I would not take it to the core support. All of that is paper thin sheet. The more I look at it, the more I can see this design is going to cause problems, even with normal use.

I would split the batteries. There is another mounting area (I don't know for what) behind the air box. There is plenty of area for a battery, but I can't tell if there is enough height. I would build a tray for battery #2 there and if there isn't enough height, I would use one that can be laid on it's side like a Optima. I would also look for the smallest form factor that would do the job. I would put the factory tray back or build a new tray that also served as a mount for the isolator. I would change both to lighter batteries if possible. Splitting those batteries will also take some of that weight off one side and I think that place battery #2 back a little.

 

What is the difference in the weight of the stock size battery to your complete dual battery setup?
The factory sheet metal is designed for a specific battery weight and size for normal usage.
You are lucky that you have not broken off the oil filler tube.

 

So, 100+lb of batteries in a spot with thin sheet metal, that was designed for a single 35lb battery, causes cracking.

shocking...

 

its broken off 3 times, i've just jb weld'd it back each time with no issue

 

If it's broken off 3 times you can't say you've "weld'd it back with no issue".

 

Nailed it! The best way to go and less lean.

 

Welding isn't going to fix this. It will just make the surrounding metal brittle. The proper and yet expensive fix is to replace the cracked parts with new and make a doubler with another new part. It's going to need to be two layers of stock sheet metal and even this will only buy you time

 

Off grid engineering sells a kit for splitting the batteries. Id recommend doing that before something catastrophic happens.

 

Welding the cracks might make other areas problems since it will heat affect much of the metal near the welds. Stop drill and reinforce is a great way to repair cracks in sheet metal, that is the standard in Aviation for structural repair of allowable cracks.