Advice for changing my own brakes

Dealers in my area use copper antiseize. However, I found that dries up sooner than the 2-year brake service interval in the maintenance booklet. For my own brake jobs I use Permatex 24127 ceramic silicone grease. Apply the grease on the short edges of the pad backing plate (where they ride in the caliper slot), between the pad and the shim, on the caliper piston face, and on the retainer pins where the pads slide on.

 

As others have mentioned, use the "Eric O" methods but use something like this on the actual guide pins:

$11 AGS SIL-Glyde 4 oz Tube Silicone Based Brake Assembly Lubricant for Eliminating Disc Brake Squeal - Moisture Proof, Heat Resistant, Rust and Corrosion Protector

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000CIHTPE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_zPKZFbYA8G1HG

The permatex ceramic "should" not cause issues with rubber boot swell but there's a chance it could so why risk it. Have done multiple brake jobs following these steps and after thousands of miles, everything is running great on my other vehicles. I would not use the silver antiseize anywhere near the braking system. If you have a harbor freight around, get a wire wheel set for your drill; makes bracket rust cleanup faster.

As a side psa, torque your wheels and all fasteners to spec to avoid issues down the road. Have fun and stay safe.

 

I flush mine very couple of years. But it's a separate procedure than a brake job for me anyway

 

On the Taco pins I've found a dap of antiseize works well. It's stable and doesn't "rinse off" over time. Every 5k miles I rotate my tires and while the wheel is off I make a point to check the pins and give them a little push and pull to ensure they're still free.

But on vehicle with floating calipers, I've found that Sil-Glyde works great on the slide pins. It's will not harm rubber either.

 

always add lubrication/anti-seize when doing brakes to the pins, shims and back of pads if no shims

 

While looking more into the bleed thing, I found this attachment interesting. Both times this certified mechanic ran into issues not opening the bleeder, it was Toyota vehicles.

By not opening the bleeder, I always though it had to do with the proportioning valve somehow.

 

I have never not used anti-seize on a brake job. It goes between the pad/shim and piston, and all the rotor/wheel mating surfaces.

I have never had a vehicle (before the Taco) with the pin style pad retainers, though, so I'll have to decide how to handle that. I think you'd want to be careful what you put on those pins. They are fully exposed, so any grease will attract and hold grit and dirt, which could cause the pads not to slide well on them.

 

where do I find bleed nipple? Because this is my first time doing it.

 

They are always on the top of the caliper. This allows any possible air to come out.

You do not want to let any air in.

 

don't loosen the bleeder until you get a little pressure on it.

 

Yep.

 

so what do I do Crack it slightly open or don’t open it at all?

 

This is my 1st time doing it and I think I am getting anxiety about doing it !

 

get the C-clamp on it snug and then open the bleeder. once the piston is pushed all the way in, leave the clamp tightened on the piston then tighten up the bleeder. once the bleeder is closed again, you can release the c clamp.

 

Here is a video for you.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3RYG0ymWEFE

 

You should have some pucker going on. You're messing with the brakes after all.

I would bet that there are good bleeding vids on YouTube.

Mainly, only crack the bleed port open when you are pushing back the caliper or when someone is applying pressure to the brake clutch pedal. Close the port before they let off the pedal.


In the end, the Taco brakes are as simple as they get with four opposing pistons and top in pad loading. The caliper doesn't need to be removed.

 

@tonered brings up a good point; are you just swapping pads or also replacing/turning rotors? You should do both at the same time so factor in the rotors into the price and removal/replacement. You'll also want to clean up the hub face to remove rust where rotor touches the hub.

 

Here's a couple more videos having to do with brake jobs. They are not Toyota specific, but they contain some good information.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6RQ9UabOIPg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lU6OKQxSg8U

 

To minimize air ingress, put the bleeder bottle hose on the nipple first, open the bleeder about one turn with a small wrench, then compress the pistons. If you don't want to be bothered then don't touch the bleeder. The one in a thousand anecdotal cases of master cylinder leakage may just be seal wear on older vehicles (especially if they had been filled with cheap generic-brand brake fluid without lubricants). On a 5-year old truck, it won't be an issue.

Two important things for safety:
1. Make sure the brake pads are in the correct direction - friction material facing the pads (surprisingly many DIYers get this wrong...).
2. When you're all done, pump the pedal a few times before driving away. Otherwise you won't have brakes the first time you try to use it.

Everything else about antiseize/grease/bleeder/pad squealers are secondary - even if you forget a thing, it won't be a huge screwup.

 

The pins are primarily to retain the pads. If you live in the rust belt, those pins can rust solidly into place unless you remove, clean and lube them regularly. Synthetic brake lube is what I have found to work the best. Whatever you use seems to burn off from the heat long before it has a chance to attract dirt..