Actuator Transfer Case Timing

Hi guys,

Bear with me. I know it is a known issue, but I haven't found an answer to it on any post (forgive me if I missed it).

I know the main issue in the my 4wd...

From begining, my truck 2003, tacoma v6, double cab, 170k miles.

- About 6 months ago my 4wd stopped working. I decided to open the transfer case actuator back cover (MAIN ISSUE NOW). ust to check its condition, and it sprang out...
-I finally determined that the issue back then was the Front axle actuator, since if I unplugged the wiring harness at the front actuator, the rear one would turn (electrical motor).

-I just replaced the front axle actuator (this week), both (tcase and front) were turning when it was installed. So initial issue was the Front one, however, since I took Tcase actuator cover off, the actuator was out of timing... due to me taking the cover of Tcase and springing out the coil with the cogs...

- MAIN QUESTION: Is there a way to place the Tcase actuator back in timing without having to buy a new actuator (actuator $1000 + work $1000?). I guess they come pretensed from factory? It is impossible to twist the actuator on the Tcase to give it a load, since the housing (electrical motor, etc), bumps on the Tcase... :S


I know now, for sure, the positions of the actuator where the 3 metal prongs should be. But I am unable to put it on place but it will be without at the right place with the needed spring tension. I was able to place it in timing position regarding the prongs and the metal contact bands on the black cover, the truck would go smoothly into 2wd, 4wd, and 4lo... however, since it is not in the groove (STOPPER on photo), it would rattle at 2wd since there is not tension and it is out of place. So I know both actuators work. ISSUE: Right spring + timing of Tcase actuator.

Here is a picture of an actuator to talk about the timing I found correct for my 2003 tacoma v6:






Let me know if someone has been able to place back the t case actuator back cover with the spring and wheel cogs... I was unable to do it yesterday. Even trying to put tcase rod on 4wd (pushing inside from cog hole) and placing the 3 prongs in their right position for 4hi. Also, I have not taken apart from the Tcase the actuator (metal part bolter to actual T case).

I would love not to have to buy a new actuator for $1000 + labor. I know it works, just need magic touch for putting it back.


Thanks to all! Hope to find a solution.





Post I have checked for info:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/4x4-issues-front-diff-actuator-or-t-case-actuator.358059/

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/transfer-case-actuator.468541/

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/transfer-box-4wd-actuator-how-to-align.433384/

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/transfer-actuator.353584/

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/transfer-actuator.353584/page-2

 

Hi,

Wass anybody able to place the back cover of the T case Actuator back into timing with success? Just need to figure out if I should keep trying or give up my intents and pay the devil (aka mechanic) the price to put new actuator for $2000+

Thanks guys!!

 

I feel like @Dirty Pool may be able to help

 

@Natharus Did you ever figure it out? What route did you end up taking?

I’m literally having the same exact issue. Had to replace the front actuator because it broke a tooth, and now the dealership wants to replace the transfer case actuator/transfer case. As of right now it appears that the system is trying to work, however the issue that’s keeping it from engaging is apparently due to the transfer case actuator not pushing the rod shaft far enough in or out of the transfer case for the 4wd to engage. So it is moving the rod, just not far enough.

I also removed the plastic portion of the transfer case actuator when I was diagnosing the problem prior to resorting to the dealership, and now I’m wondering if me not setting the spring loaded tension as you mentioned is the reason that’s keeping the rod from moving to where it’s supposed to.

I’ve explained this to the dealership and they seem to shrug it off, believing the issue is that something is broken somewhere in the gearing, like another broken tooth or the rod slipping position.

Can anyone confirm whether or not the actuator spring loaded timing plays a part in how far the rod is pushed and pulled? And can this be adjusted without the need to take the whole transfer case off? I don’t have that triangular plate on the transfer case actuator that would allow me to remove the entire actuator.

Thanks

 

Actuators suck

"I also removed the plastic portion of the transfer case actuator when I was diagnosing the problem prior to resorting to the dealership, and now I’m wondering if me not setting the spring loaded tension as you mentioned is the reason that’s keeping the rod from moving to where it’s supposed to."

This was my exact issue... there is no turning back once those three screws come off. Sorry to tell you. The transfer case actuator are pre-loaded (almost about 180 deg from where you can put them) from factory.

My issue was, front actuator died..., Diagnosing, I took the plastic black cover from the T case..., I replaced the front actuator, however, the rear wont behave.
I tried, with a good friend, to reset the Tcase actuator cog to the "right place", by just connecting a 12V battery to reverse the T case actuator and try to get the spring to go the right location (2wd as shown in the diagram I have up top) this is really hard. Almost impossible to disconnect the cables held by your hand and place the three prongs into the right location, without seeing the location, since actuator cover is on, and it is on the car. We tried several times.... This is the ONLY way I can see to time correctly the Tcase, plus moving the rod to the right location (with the help of a screw driver) to be in 2WD before putting the wheel cog and cover case on it

I also did not have the triangular piece in the back which allowed you to take the actuator back.

So, the only solution? Buy a new Tcase actuator, about $1k. and $200 in labor to split the Tcase and put the new actuator in. Now, about 5 months later, it all works pretty smooth.

I am afraid to tell you, the factory timing is key. Without it, it is REALLY tricky to put everything back where it was after removing the plastic case of the Tcase actuator...

Good luck with it! Let us know if you find the solution. But this was my experience.

PLEASE EVERYONE! DO NOT TAKE THE T CASE ACTUATOR COVER!!

 

@Natharus well crap... even though it’s not pleasant to hear, that’s the best info I’ve gotten on the subject in weeks. Unless someone can say otherwise about how to pre-tense these things, I agree that the t-case actuator cover should never be taken off. I read plenty of stuff on here about doing it so I assumed it was safe to do so. I’m looking at a little over $1k from the dealership for parts and labor on a used t-case and t-case actuator. That’s a hard lesson right there. Hopefully I can recoup some of that by selling my old t-case to someone who may need it. The money part sucks, but I’m more so sad that it has to come off even though it’s in fine working condition. And the actuator is pristine, just not pre-tensed anymore. You would think there would have to be a way to pre-tense it once it’s separated from the t-case completely, but as of right now how to do that is beyond me.

 

Hey fixed mine using this!!!! It is possible just trial and error I was stuck in 4 lo when my actuator was off I put the three metal pins in the 2wd position and that’s worked for me!

 

It’s trial and error. I just fixed mine. I tried all kinds of different combinations. When I turned the key on it thought it was in 4 Lo, so I pulled the actuator and manually moved the shift rod into 4low position, then reassembled it. That didn’t work. So I messed with the clocking again. Finally got it so when I turned the truck on, the computer recognized it was in 2wd. Then I was able to shift into 4wd then to 4 low and back to 2wd. I must’ve pulled the actuator off 10 times.

 

I actually couldn’t get it so I broke down and went to the dealer. They called and said they needed to change the detection switches, I was not convinced that was the problem. Sure enough they call and say, “good news, the switches are in and working now, but it’s still not going into 4wd.” Said the mechanic wanted to open the transfer case to take a look and that it would be $2000!! I said, “hell nah, I’m coming to get my truck.” They had my truck all day and all he did was screw in 2 new detection switches that I’m sure we’re fine. I got them to reimburse the $200 for the switches but still cost me $400 for nothing. ‍♂️

 

Side note:
When putting the Tc a tut back on, the shift rod needs to be pushed all the way into the transfer case, that’s it’s 2wd position. And the clocking needs to be set to match that.

 

New to the forum but wanted to share.

The tension on the gear inside of the cover does not matter. To fix you just have to get the timing on the contacts correct. I replaced mine with a fully assembled actuator and it was not timed correctly for 2wd, so I still had to remove those 3 screws and take the gear out. Trial and error as stated above is right!

i just kept turning the gear little turn on the key and test, then reapeat until I hit the right timing spot.

 

To the guys who have fixed this, I would appreciate ANY help. Right now I'm lost between the rod alignment, TC actuator alignment and the gearing and 4WD push button. THANK YOU! Prefer contact at jelepich@gmail.com.

 

Hi guys!

could one not just push in the rod into 2 hi and then plug in the actuator and set the switch inside to 2 hi and that should be aligned to reinstall after is set then remove rod from actuator and install new rod insert gear to that position?