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AC System Repair Estimate

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by shmn, Aug 2, 2022.

  1. Aug 2, 2022 at 12:48 PM
    #1
    shmn

    shmn [OP] Well-Known Member

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    2007 Tacoma 2.7L 5sp: AC compressor seized most likely due to oil leaking out of condenser (can see green stains at lower corner) so I need new compressor, condenser, o-rings, expansion valve & filter and maybe new Schrader valve cores. Evap and lines need flushing then system set to vacuum, oiled and filled with R134a.

    I usually do my own repairs (former marine diesel mech) but I don't have AC tools and my knees are arthritic so got an estimate from dealer (a little over $4k) and local shop (just under $4k...see below).

    estimate.jpg

    I don't know why labor for the expansion valve is so high. It can be removed through opening in firewall from engine compartment. Maybe they think the dash needs to come apart? Am I missing something?

    Anyway, I've done a bunch of research and using OEM parts and buying tools (Robinair AC manifold gauge set, Robinar vacuum pump, flush kit, leak detector) and fluids (PAG oil, R134a, dye, flush fluid) and having old R134a removed (if there's any left in system) should come out to $1500 (could be a lot cheaper with aftermarket parts and cheapest tools from Amazon but cheap stuff usually means it will have to be done again sooner rather than later).

    I have the service manual and there are many informative posts on this site and good videos on YouTube.

    Anyone else go down this road? Any words or encouragement or derision?
     
  2. Aug 2, 2022 at 1:03 PM
    #2
    Raylo

    Raylo Well-Known Member

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    As Lee Haney used to say, nothing to it but to do it! I picked up doing HVAC work a long time ago when one of my GM product's compressors went. The next GM vehicle product AC compressor had the black death failure like yours that meant I needed to do a flush. The flush kits work very well to do the lines and evaporator. I assume you realize that you can't flush the condenser, that will have to be new. I started accumulating the tools along the way and have graduated into doing the HVAC work on my house. Get good tools as you will need them again. Watch youtube for some good videos if you need to. Charge exactly the amount specified for your vehicle by weight. Use OEM HVAC parts or you WILL be doing it all again soon. Good luck!


     
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  3. Aug 2, 2022 at 1:06 PM
    #3
    shmn

    shmn [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the encouragement. The condenser has a leak so it needs to be replaced anyway. But yes, even if it wasn't leaking I know that it needs to replaced anyway since it can't be cleaned plus I believe the drier is built into the condenser.
     
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  4. Aug 2, 2022 at 1:09 PM
    #4
    Clearwater Bill

    Clearwater Bill Never answer an anonymous letter

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    Largo Florida
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    A few OE parts from fancy trucks
    @Jimmyh any diagrams for this fella?
     
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  5. Aug 2, 2022 at 1:11 PM
    #5
    Raylo

    Raylo Well-Known Member

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    This thread and a few others are like hearing some of your slightly older friends are passing away. I have seen recent AC threads for 2005, 2007, and 2008. Waiting for the hammer to drop on my 2009.
     
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  6. Aug 2, 2022 at 1:17 PM
    #6
    Clearwater Bill

    Clearwater Bill Never answer an anonymous letter

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    Yea. I see a bit more of that these days. :anonymous:

    OTOH, my uncle could turn 102 in Sept........ He may be holding out for one of those 'last WWII vet' articles.
     
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  7. Aug 2, 2022 at 1:19 PM
    #7
    Jimmyh

    Jimmyh Well-Known Member

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    I would ask why the expansion valve is so high. They very well may be planning on removing the dash to get to it. The service manual states to remove the dash which is a waste of time and money.

    You can get to it via the firewall opening.

    Also make sure all the lines are flushed clean.


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    Here are some more pictures for you. Don't forget the filter in the tube.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  8. Aug 2, 2022 at 1:29 PM
    #8
    Clearwater Bill

    Clearwater Bill Never answer an anonymous letter

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    I doubt they plan on pulling the dash. Well, not if they are smart.

    Good techs bill book time and work real time. It's how dear old dad was able to be paid 50-60 hrs a week while physically putting in 40.

    Tricks of the trade. Rebuild a carb while you have down time, and when the next arrives, bolt off, bolt on, next please. Or figure out how to change a clutch on an enclosed driveshaft vehicle w/o fully pulling the engine or diff.
     
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  9. Aug 2, 2022 at 3:23 PM
    #9
    bjr23

    bjr23 Member

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    I've got a friends '05 Tacoma with no AC that I'm tryin' to trouble shoot. and would like to know if these compressors are the variable displacement style? And was you able to remove the TXV thru the firewall hole? bjr23
     
  10. Aug 3, 2022 at 1:12 PM
    #10
    shmn

    shmn [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I ordered all the parts I need other than flush fluid and R-134a refrigerant which I can source locally. My total so far is $1190 which includes tax and shipping so I'll estimate this will cost around $1300 rather than $1500 which doesn't include my time. Conicelli Toyota had much better pricing on OEM parts than I anticipated (can't recall where I saw the link someone posted).

    I usually put all my parts in an Excel to keep track of costs and for my records (habit from work). I'll post it in case it may be of some use to someone in the future.

    NOTE: an updated Excel file is posted later in this thread: AC System Repair Estimate
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Apr 7, 2023
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  11. Aug 3, 2022 at 1:21 PM
    #11
    Harp1

    Harp1 Well-Known Member

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    Masshole for now
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    2007 Tacoma 4.0 V6. I just got off the phone with my guy and he said my son's truck needs a condenser (3 places leaking). It seems to be the only thing leaking on the AC system. Told him to replace it. So far it's $300 without labor for the parts. We'll see.
     
  12. Aug 3, 2022 at 1:39 PM
    #12
    jimmy c

    jimmy c Well-Known Member

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    A lot of times we give the customer the option to forgo the exppansion valve and see what happens. Most of the time its all good. Even though you can see the valve, it may be bigger then the opening to remove it or the plate it screws into may fall out of place. If the valve is getting replaced and the dash must come out, it would be wise to change the evaporater and possibly the heater core. Probably the evap temp sensor also. GOOD LUCK. Find a good reputable independant repair shop and gget a quote.
     
  13. Aug 3, 2022 at 4:53 PM
    #13
    Jimmyh

    Jimmyh Well-Known Member

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    The valve will come out through the firewall and the evaporator should be firmly held in place. Several people I know have replaced their valve this way. It's tight, but doable.

    Expansion valve seals:

    Engine Side of Valve
    - Upper 90210-A0001
    - Lower 90210-A0002

    Evaporator Side of Valve

    - Upper 90210-A0004
    - Lower 90210-A0002
     
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  14. Aug 3, 2022 at 5:25 PM
    #14
    Raylo

    Raylo Well-Known Member

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    Maybe the OP can take a video or some pics to show how the expansion valve comes out when he gets to that step. And thanks to Jimmy's great drawings and all the part numbers this thread can help a lot of us.
     
  15. Aug 3, 2022 at 5:28 PM
    #15
    TacoTuesday1

    TacoTuesday1 Well-Known Member

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    if it was me, I'd replace:
    -expansion valve, orifice tube/filter, condenser, compressor, flush

    some cars had a reciever/dryer separate. Others have it integrated in the condenser. Sometimes it comes out to replace or do a flush. Othertimes it's not removable

    Expansion valves are designed to regulate flow. There is usually special tools of more freely flowing dummy "expansion valves" to bolt in place during a flush, to give the flow it needs to perform the flush.
    It takes longer to make one, but if you don't have that, you can take the old valve and drill through it to achieve that flowrate.

    Thinking of doing another evac/charge on mine and condenser replacement as preventative maintenance. The thing is looking dirty and beat up

    IMO the hard part would be finding parts for correct O-rings, which need to be lubed in PAG oil. To have a good sealed system.
    Not hard to look up a condenser on RockAuto. Finding each and every different O-ring is harder.
    Especially if you go to their parts dept and they don't give a shit or want to help.It doesn't make them money and if your repair goes south they don't care. More money for them from a tow-in.
    I used to have my own online dealer parts catalog and was able to find every correct part. It was great

    I have a generic A/C o-ring assorted kit from Harbor Freight but have no idea if those would be lucky enough to fit perfect vs. the actual part number
    I know sometimes shops do exactly that; have an assorted kit for it

    People don't always replace the O-rings. Sometimes they just clean and lube with PAG oil. Can't say I've ever seen a ripped one. They're not under as much stress as something like an engine O-ring facing constant high heat cycles, etc.

    10 years it's what A/C's do

    some dealers have better prices than others because even though they buy the same part, from the same place, for the same price
    some mark it up more than others for profit
    wave the wand, magic money trick

    Fun fact. Ton of Chevy trucks/SUV's in recent history came out with faulty condensers from improper welds from factory, resulting in leak and A/C inop
    A/C goes out on an expensive low miles truck 1 mile out of warranty, response is "lololol"
    I wonder if response was the same for gov vehicles that used the platform
     
    Last edited: Aug 3, 2022
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  16. Aug 4, 2022 at 3:39 AM
    #16
    Raylo

    Raylo Well-Known Member

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    I am going on 13 years with mine, so it is definitely on borrowed time. Hate to spend $ unnecessarily but it might be a good idea to do the compressor, condenser, o-rings and seals if only to avoid a possible black death compressor failure which makes a more complicated repair, like the OP has. Yup, finding the o-rings can be tough. I always had good luck with brand specific assortments, but I probably wouldn't get them from HF. Used to be a place online called Arizona Air or somesuch that had a pretty comprehensive selection of flush kits, parts and supplies. I'll have to look to see if they are still in business.

    A quick search found this set specifically for 2009 Tacoma v6. Not clear if it has everything you need but looks OK.

    GPD® 2009 Toyota Tacoma Base 6 Cyl 4.0L - A/C O-Ring and Gasket Seal Kit (carparts.com)


     
    Last edited: Aug 4, 2022
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  17. Aug 4, 2022 at 11:56 AM
    #17
    TacoTuesday1

    TacoTuesday1 Well-Known Member

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    if it ain’t broke don’t fix it
    New compressor is probably $1000

    replacing a beat up condenser for $100 is easier to justify
     
  18. Aug 4, 2022 at 12:03 PM
    #18
    Raylo

    Raylo Well-Known Member

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    Not $1000 when it is DIY. More like $550 for compressor and condenser. I already have a case of R-134a and all the tools. See the estimate above... the black death repair at the dealer is more like $4,000.

     
  19. Aug 4, 2022 at 12:05 PM
    #19
    TACORIDER

    TACORIDER Just another statistic

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    That Orifice tube looks like hell
     
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  20. Aug 4, 2022 at 12:09 PM
    #20
    Raylo

    Raylo Well-Known Member

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    That's what a black death compressor failure does when it grenades. That crap goes all through the system which make the repair painful and $$$. One pulled from a functioning system won't look like that.

     

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