AC Freezing HELP

So abt 2-3 months ago, I noticed that after abt 30-45 mins of running the Ac, whether on low or high, it looses power and doesn't blow as hard and as cold but still blows cold air. So I poped the hood and noticed the Ac line frozen with a good thick layer of ice. After shutting down the Ac for about 30 mins and turning it back on, AC runs normal and blows extremely cold. I'm attaching a video so you guys can see what I'm talking about.

Why is it doing this? Why is it freezing over with ice? And how can I fix it?

My AC compressor was changed alout at abt 20k ish mileage and my truck currently has 59k so it's not that old. It was replaced BC they thought that was the raddleling noise coming from under the glove box but it wasn't.

I've tried searching and found that it might be low in freeon or what not but I wanted to ask you guys what you all think it might be.

here is a video to show how bad its freezing up
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6w_FmG7wxsSUklremtJSi1kR2M/view?usp=sharing

Thanks in advance

 

2 things I can think of off hand are either:

1. Your charge is low, probably since they replaced your compressor
2. Your cabin air filter could be plugged up. Check you cabin air filter to make sure it is clean.

 

what do you mean charge is low?

 

Low on refrigerant. R134-A is the refrigerant used in 2nd Gen Tacoma's and many other vehicles.

 

I'll try this. So i just buy a bottle and empty it in or is there suppose to be a certain amount of pressure on the gauge?

so my truck is considered low on refrigerant even tho it cools very good for the first hour or two?

 

Compressor?...that's weird. It's under the hood closer to front of engine.Don't understand how an experienced a/c tech thought that? Sure it wasn't the evaporator which is below the glove box?

 

The refrigerant should be charged to a certain pressure that should be done by a professional.

 

i have no clue what it is. from when my truck had about 9k miles it had this ticking noise under the glove box. at first the thought it was something stuck in the fan or filter, like a leaf, which was causing it but when they checked everything was clean and clear. so after multiple visit, they decided to change the fan under the glove box thinking that was the cause (at around 25k miles) but till this day my truck is at 60k and is still doing it.

 

so this is not something i can do on my own? like go to the auto parts store and buy a refrigerant can and load it up myself?

does anyone know what the pressure setting needs to be at?

my truck hasn't seen a stealership since it had 25,000 miles. I have been doing all the maintenance myself and really don't want to take it back to those guys. they do everything half ass.

took my truck in for an oil change once, under the first 25,000 maintenance warranty, and wrote on my oil filter with a silver sharpie to make sure it was being changed, got called to pick up my truck because it was ready, popped the hood and my oil filter was still the same.
when i ask if they changed it, everyone said yes it was changed until i showed them my initials was written on the oil filter

 

If it were me doing this, I'd put R134-A gauges on the system(2 lines - low & high pressure) and check pressure. I would never rely on the gauges installed on the suicide kits sold at the McParts places. Compare readings to what's in the FSM(factory service manual). If low - charge.

If a low refrigerant charge is not the issue you might also suspect a faulty evaporator thermostat. I'm still suspicious your evaporator was changed and not your compressor.
If you have the receipt from the work done, post the part numbers.

 

For Reference on a/c freon capacity

 

thanks soo much for your help brotha. as soon as i get home, I'll look for the invoice of the work they did on my truck

 

ah ha. savage! thank you.

 

The stickers have a tendency to fall off, so I finally found one and documented! Now like everyone else is saying don't just get the recharge cans with the hoses with them. Get a manifold set if you want to DIY and learn how to use them

 

You can get a gauge with a can of the 134 at most auto parts stores...they are pretty simple to use, it may or may not need to be topped off. Just follow the instructions on the can. Mine was really low and I serviced it myself and it works great now.

 

That only works for some cases, and the gauge only reads the Low pressure side. To do it correctly you need the manifold set which reads High and Low pressure sides.

 

You might have a similar issue I was having with mine. Dealer found the reciever dryer slightly over saturated with moisture due to a prior leak allowing it to freeze at the expansion valve. They replaced condensor and dryer and all is well now. Evidentally they didnt evac the system good enough after the leak and the system got moisture in it causing my problem.

 

Just did mine. Autozone rents it for free.

 

You may have some kind of restriction as well....

 

Your low pressure switch is not working, allowing the compressor to run continuously.