Ac compressor seized, bypass it ?!?!

Hi ! Someone can tell me if i can bypass with a new belt my ac compressor ? The ac pulley doesn't spin.

 

...... Or you could fix it and have a fully functional truck...... surely there is a thread on here for it.

 

Yes but i can't fix it now...

 

Then i reckon you'd need to get lucky enough to find the right length belt to work around it... but that would be tough

 

Ouch, ours went last Spring..

I thought I could manage without until the first cold morning - defrost doesn't work with a seized compressor.

 

clutch disable it's the only way

or purchase a bypass pully which sits in the same place and
has a mount that bolts up where the compressor would

something like this

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-4Runner-Tacoma-Tercel-A-C-Bypass-Pulley-/310340810104

 

thx guys! Better place to buy a new compressor ?

 

127.0.0.1, I can't see your link ... Unfortunately, access to this particular item has been blocked due to legal restrictions in some countries.

 

just google a/c bypass pulley and search around

 

It's like a $3000 job. Not everyone can afford it.

 

Yank the compressor if the pulley won't turn then it's the clutch bearing or a trashed clutch either way not too big a deal. If it only won't turn when it's on pull the clutch wire.

 

You can replace the A/C compressor for FAR less than $3000. You can find a brand new compressor for $300-$400 at AutoZone. It is very easy to replace. You will need to then visit an A/C shop for an evacuation and recharge, probably $200 bucks. Autozone usually sells a package with the compressor and drier in one big box, if you open the system, you will really want to replace the drier. If you are environmentally conscientious, you should take it to that shop to let them recover existing freon, if it has not leaked down to nothing, first. Then replace it, which is not a major challenge. Remove belt, disconnect the two freon lines which is usually on a block held by one bolt, then 4 bolts for the compressor. I've replaced compressors in 15-20 minutes before. Don't know about the difficulty of getting your drier out, most are easy but some are buried behind lots of stuff that has to be moved out of the way.

You can probably bypass if you prefer. Make a note of the belt routing. Then run a piece of string around the SAME path, leaving out the A/C pulley. Tie a knot to make it snug. Measure it and subtract an inch or so. A parts place can match that pretty easily. We had one done like this to bypass the alternator when my son would drag-race his mustang. Only thing to watch for, and that's why I suggested the string, is to be sure there is an unobstructed circuit for the belt to follow leaving the A/C pulley out. Sometimes they use some of the idlers and actual pumps/compressors/etc to keep the belt clear of hoses, water pump and such...

And for heaven's sake don't puke up $3000 to get it fixed. Doing as I suggested would leave you with a $600-$700 bill total, plus an hours labor or so for you to remove/replace the compressor.

And it is POSSIBLE that all you need is the clutch itself. If you look at how it is made, the big pulley runs on a bearing whose inner race is generally an interference fit on the front of the compressor. If the bearing goes out, the pulley is connected directly to the compressor housing and it is not going to move. And from your description I would suspect that is the case here. AutoZone shows a clutch bearing for $25 or so. You'd just need a machine shop to press it in/out to replace it. With any luck you can get it off the compressor without having to disconnect the freon lines. Now you are potentially looking at a $75 repair bill including 50 bucks for the bearing removal/replacement when you hand them the clutch and new bearing. Some places like CarQuest (around here anyway) can do that press in and out in the store for you. I've never been charged by them myself, so you might get by with just the bearing cost.

Good luck...

 

If the actual compressor is seized, this just took a turn for the worse. Now you can't get away with just replacing the compressor. You really need to back-flush the freon lines, replace the drier, and flush the condenser coil. Several years ago my wife's compressor started making a BIG racket. Took it off, and could see metal bits in the freon line openings. Removed the freon line at the orifice tube, flushed it backward, replaced the drier and compressor and off we went. but the flushing adds a good bit of time to the process. I don't know if the truck you have uses an orifice tube or a TX valve. Orifice tubes are certainly nice because they tend to catch all the crap and prevent it from entering the evaporator core and adding another thing to flush. TX valve might need replacing. Nothing likes a lot of metal filings running through the system.

 

Only if you want the A/C to work. If you don't care or can't afford it just deal with the clutch assembly. The A/C system won't get any worse than it all ready is maybe one day some one might want to fix it then it will become expensive.

 

3k Maybe at the stealership. Any good reputable shop would be able to do the work for waaaay less than 3k. Especially if you buy the parts.

 

My dad's 2011 Tacoma just lost the compressor. The serpentine belt wailed at him when he started the truck (AC was on from when he drove it the day before) and now the AC no longer works. The truck has 27k miles on it and is just over 4 years old. Not sure if he should go to and independent shop and just pay out of pocket or hassle Toyota into covering part of it. My experience is that Toyota is pretty good about helping just out of warranty failures. 27k is way too soon to be losing the AC.

 

Keep us updated, I don't think they will fix it, not a TSB or anything like that.

Just keep us updated.

 

The compressor from Toyota dealers in Canada is around $1400.

After market it can be found here for around $600.

It's a fair bit of work to replace the compressor. You're pulling the fan and the alternator and all manner of bits and pieces. But it can be done with regular hand tools and a Haynes manual.

I did this job more than 5 years ago and recharged the system with the redtek coolant. This was after suffering through one very hot summer with no A/C. Manageable for me, not so nice for my family.

When it was diagnosed the tech at the dealership removed the nasty refrigerant. It's now charged with a hydrocarbon based coolant. At the time the part was back ordered and it didn't exist yet in re manufactured or aftermarket parts stores.

 

To be honest, it was pretty scary once I had everything apart, looking at the dismantled truck in my garage.

But each step is manageable.

It's just like eating an elephant.

Looks like an impossible job.

But you can do it, just take one bite at a time.

 

My experience has been that Toyota usually steps up and helps with such an early, abnormal failure. Maybe parts or labor only, but at least something. It usually requires a call to Toyota corporate.