AC Compressor & Condenser DIY replacement in 2nd gen?

Has anyone replaced the AC Compressor & Condensor in a 2nd gen?
Wondering if I can do it at home? Dealership wants $1,200 for labor and $615 for parts.
I'm pretty handy, but also have a 6-year-old at home and don't want to spend more than a day on it. Thoughts? Thank you.
Was going to ask pep boys to give me a quote but haven't made it there yet.

 

Wrenching is not the hard part.
Flushing and R134a is. Yes, they make DIY tools for that which are cheaper than professional.
You don't have to go to Toyota. You can find a mechanic to do side work for $50/hr (post your location) or an independent specialist shop for around $100+/hr.

R134a: machine to evacuate, recharge, measure, add oil/dye if needed, vacuum, etc.
Flush: whatever is needed to flush contaminants and debris when the compressor failed, to clean the system and prevent future failure again.
Things like a hollowed out expansion valve, remove then replace orifice tube filter, when done replace condenser that likely has integrated reciever/drier in the form of a dessicant bag (like silica gel); I forget if there's anything else
Professional shops with any skill at all will have a flush tool adapter that when used with an A/C machine set into a certain mode, uses refrigerant gas itself (a decent amount) to backflush the system. It used to be done with air, chemicals, etc. but is now done with R134a and takes hours. The tool has only so many uses before its filter must be replaced.

It's not something everybody has sitting at home like a flathead screwdriver.

 

I'm going through the same thing right now and am in the middle of the repair (waiting for some parts to arrive). Take a look at this thread: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/ac-system-repair-estimate.773689/

I posted an Excel file with all the parts and tools you may need which might help out.

Also these videos may help:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m1QpGb1fsgM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pdq8JAlct6s

 

A thing to consider is whether or not you can buy R134a in your state. Washington recently banned the sale on it. I think it was effective earlier this year. I found this out when my son's car needed an AC recharge and couldn't find any.

 

that’s insane
Most cars on the road are r134a
Only brand new cars are things like 1234yf

I guess it may help the environment to buy a new car shipped on a diesel and put the old one in a junkyard to leech mercury from the headlight bulbs into the ground

 

I walked in to my local auto parts store and asked where the r134a was and he pointed to a sign that said they can no longer sell it. I was surprised. I can't even get it shipped to my house from Amazon.

 

When you live in Spokane , WA. you can hop over to "normal" Idaho & buy the r134A ! Hopefully we'll get rid of our wacko governor & get a normal guy 2024.

 

Ok, I have an A/C related question. 2012 Taco. As I leave home to go to work (3.5) miles I noticed that I hear rattle maybe or sort of a shuffling sound and it goes away after turning A/C off. So I took the A/C comp clutch off and the little friction ring was not attached so I JB welded back in. Sounds a little better! no I cannot find a replacement so I can just switch it out. I ordered one from Toyota and sent it back, bearing way too big. Bearing size is smaller and looks like the one for an early Tundra. Any thoughts on were I can find help in getting correct one? And could just the clutch be the issue?

 

first thing, no reason to bring an out of warranty truck to a dealership for work. Find a reputable local independent mechanic shop and youll see lower prices. Most of the work you can do but when it comes to charging a system its best to leave it to the pros

 

I believe a compressor clutch from Toyota would contain what you need except for the shims for the clutch. I replaced my compressor + clutch maybe a month ago and the clutch came with the magnet, pulley with bearing installed and, clutch hub.

Pull back the clutch hub a little by backing off the small (8mm head?) bolt and rotate it by hand 5-10 rotations. It should have some resistance but be consistent and smooth, it shouldn't bind up. If it does start binding up then I would skip the clutch and get a whole compressor. Better to catch it early than to let it fail and have to flush the system and replace a bunch of parts because it sent metal everywhere. Often when the clutch wears out, the compressor isn't far behind. And vice versa.

If you end up putting on a whole compressor and are having a shop recover/recharge it then try to minimize the time between installing the compressor and getting it charged. The shorter the time a A/C system sits with air(moisture) in it the better.

 

The clutch kit from Toyota did not fit, Bearing size too big, My guess is some one switched out this compressor years ago. It is Toyota branded. Looks like it has never been off but shaft size is different than both clutch kits from the dealership and Amazon.

 

Ahhh okay I see what you're saying now. On the side of the compressor somewhere, there will be a sticker telling you what compressor is on there...

 

I'm no help here on the install but I recently had a independent shop install a new compressor & was a bit shocked at the price charged for the compressor alone . What should one go for not counting labor ? Of course there was much more additional labor connected , wish I had asked for the used compressor to double check . There are so many other parts that can cause the problems (IE: switches etc.)

 

I will check the back for a tag. I took my clutch off of my tundra and it fits! Kinda strange I do not ever recall having the compressor replaced on the Tacoma.