AC button keeps shutting off

I have a 21 Toyota Tacoma SR 2.7. The ac was working all morning then I parked it for a couple hours and came back out and turned the truck on and the ac wasn’t working. I hit the button but every time I turned it on it would turn off after a couple seconds. It blows cold air for those few seconds. I was thinking it’s the speed sensor on the compressor but I’m having troubles finding one. Anyone else have the same issue or know where I can get a speed sensor for the compressor? Also could it be something more simple?

 

I see you have a 2021,, I'd start with warranty if you still have it.
It sounds like it could be low on refrigerant, and if it is, where did it leak from? Is the question.

 

Thanks for the reply. I checked the refrigerant today and it was good. It’s strange. It worked perfectly fine this morning and now it won’t stay on. The compressor will turn on for a few seconds and kick right back off. During those few seconds it’s blowing cold air. I plugged my OBD2 scanner in a little bit ago and got a code B1422 compressor lock sensor. I’m going to call tomorrow about the warranty.

 

you answered your own question.
now you will have to take it in and they will have to verify then order the sensor.
when it comes in then go back and get it installed.
should be covered under warranty.

guess i should get one of those OBD2 scanner gizmos!

 

Just curious - how did you check the refrigerant if the compressor won't stay running long enough to stabilize pressures and temperatures?

 

is this what i should get?
a video says to turn on ignition but don't start the truck. how do i do that with a push button start? Push button without foot on the brake?

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Yes.

 

Sorry i went out of town for a bit and didn’t have access to internet. I hooked up a pressure gauge to the low side charge port and it read that it was good. I kept turning the A/C on whenever it would kick off. I’m sure it didn’t stabilize but it read that it was good. Wouldn’t it read low if the refrigerant was low causing the compressor not to work or does the compressor need to run for longer?

 

SR4x4sRCOOL, what was the fix in the end? I have the exact same issue happening on my 2020.

Thanks

 

Check the clutch, mine melted it's insides out from excessive slippage while driving through a looot of water, which would be the rubber damper that connects the clutch to the compressor shaft, also could be the magnet losing power/efficiency/shorting out somewhere (IE: water between or inside the connector(s) and letting it slip little by little. Point is, computer is seeing that there is a difference in RPM between the AC compressor and the engine if it is turning off after a five seconds. The low and hi pressure switches just disable the compressor outright if they are tripping immediately.

Bit of a shitty design, but won't burn your accessory belt out if the compressor ever seizes, so thanks toyota, I guess. Shame it's $900 to have the dealer replace the AC clutch by itself, and it's $1800 for the dealer to just replace the whole AC compressor with AC service.

Could also be that the compressor is just straight up seized, won't know until can free spin the compressor pully and see if the clutch engages and drags, this does require two people unless you have a way to excite the magnet by yourself. Even better way to confirm is to just take the cover plate off and visibly check if the damper is separated and attempt to spin the shaft directly to absolutely confirm that the compressor is seized or not and go from there.

I will add, same thing happened to me kind of, mostly just the it no longer worked after sitting for a bit. Dropped the truck off for body repairs from a deer, this was a week after the abusing the absolute snot out of it in a dune where the AC kept randomly turning off, but mostly after driving through 100-200ft of 1ft deep water, sometime while just letting the moter wind out. When I get it back another week later from the body shop, no more A/C, gobs of melted rubber sticking out of the A/C pully.

 

Thanks for the insight Brikan, much appreciated.

 

Just need a small enough impact with 8mm socket that will fit, entire job was ~6 minutes thankfully, to remove the cover, watch it fall out in two pieces, manually rotate the compressor to check if seized. Reuse the the old shim, impact the new outer clutch on.

AC works, wish the needle bearing replacement was as simple. Could have went further and replaced the whole clutch and pully assembly, but decided not to after working on the truck for several hours trying to remove the inner CV cup from the differential. Even after spending $300 on a high quality snap/retaining ring pliers set, straight, 45, 90.

 

SR4x4sRCOOL or Tacotaco2020 - did either of you find out what the issue was? Same thing happened to me. I had just driven through water so thought it might have been my clutch as per Brikan but didn't find any melting on mine. Replaced it anyways and still have the same issue.

Got some feeler gauges to ensure my air gap is good and also going to inspect the pulley bearing before I replace the entire clutch. My ultra-novice mechanic thinking about why it may be the bearing is that when turn on the AC at a constant speed I can feel vibrations in my pedal.