98 manual hub assembly help

Im doing a manual hub swap on my 02 tacoma. It currently has the ADD system. I got all the parts from a 98 tacoma. Only thing I'm having trouble with is finding the center hub bolt. Dose anyone have a part number for this. I've been searching all over for it and can't find it. Also from what I understand you can't do the hub swap and leave the ADD actuator attached but you have to put a hose clamp on it to keep it on at all times. Is there an option to do the swap without tho hose clamp? That way the auto would work pluse you would have option to disconnect the axles using the manual hubs? Or is that not possible.
Thanks for the help.

 

You could ask @gunny1005 he's a parts guy and might even be able to order them for you. Not sure about the second part though.

 

There is no center hub bolt with the manual hub swap. The manual hubs keep the cvs locked into place, not a bolt, or at least I've never used one or seen one installed before. Might be a thing of the past.

I had a 4runner with add that I did the swap on and never messed with the add. Just installed the manual hub set up and it all worked as usual.

 

All the info I find on the manual hub they all have this bolt. Did you run it without it? I think it's a backup incase the C clip fails.

Also when you ran the ADD with manual hubs where you able to run the ADD system as stock with the hubs locked and then just had an option to unloading them once your off the trail?

 

Part No.: 90119-08466
BOLT, W/WASHER

I got mine on toyotapartsdeal.com for $1.25 each.

And yes, you can run without them.

 

Hmm never seen that bolt with both my manual hub set ups I've owned. Makes sense it would be there.

Yeah just locked them and unlocked them as a non-add system and no issues. Although I did have the multi mode 4wd/awd system so maybe that made a difference.

 

Awesome thanks @digitalferg thats the part number I was looking for.

 

I like the Option of ADD with locking Hubs

Take the Hubs out for most of the Summer but for those times I get stuck in my driveway

 

When you have the ADD with the manual hubs. Did you have to use the hose clamp to have the actuator motor be on at all times?
I guess I'm not sure why you have to do that in the first place.

 

Like previously said, it's a backup to the c-clip. It's also convenient to use to pull the axle all the way through the hub so you can get the c-clip on.

However, I ran mine for years without the bolt, without an issue.

 

My 98 has manual hubs and I just had them apart. There is no center bolt at all.

 

I am thinking the whole "clamp the tube" thing was for guys that were moving to different transfer cases or that were using the ADD diff side tube and didnt have any wiring or vacuum setup for the front diff. There is no problem just leaving the ADD side tube in there and just throwing in the manual CVs.

For reference, here are pics of ADD vs manual CVs. No difference on the inside (diff) end of the shaft. Its all on the outside (wheel/hub) end.

 

nice, this is very helpful. I will be doing my swap in a few weeks and hopefully everything will go smoothly.

 

For the OP and others finding this thread, here's a video I made with my buddy Jordan for this modification. It was done on a 3rd Gen 4runner but it's the same for the 1st Gen Tacomas.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/TZ2sOfVrnhU" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

I also did a write-up for manual hub conversions. Best of luck!

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...or-the-1st-gen-tacoma-3rd-gen-4runner.460180/

 

Seen your write up, it's one I'll be using for sure. Btw what's the reason for putting a hose clamp on the actuator?
Would it be easer to leave it unclamped?

 

This is a good video also helps a lot. I do wish you guys covered the intermediate shaft/ADD actuator part a little to make things more clear. That's the only part that's giving me trouble in understanding how everything need to work.

 

The purpose of the hose clamp is to lock the ADD actuator in 4WD since it's not needed if you have manual hubs. You don't have to touch the ADD actuator if you don't want to, but locking it in 4WD eliminates it as a failure point.

 

How do the lights react to this set up? Would the 4x4 be always on, on the dash?

I was thinking to do the swap so I could have the hubs unlocked during the summer to have less moving parts and during the winter keep them locked and if need be turn on the 4x4 from the inside of the cab as a reagular ADD system. Is this a bad way to do it?

 

I can't remember, I only had the clamped ADD actuator for a few hours before I figured out how to fit the non-ADD intermediate shaft on my front differential. I removed the ADD intermediate shaft and wiring harness, which caused the 4X4 indicator light to no longer turn on when I shift into 4WD.

If You have a J shift transfer case, you can still shift on the fly in and out of 4WD without ADD. But if you have the HI-LO t-case with a 4WD button in the shift knob, definitely leave the ADD actuator alone or you will lose that capability.