95 2WD 2.4 AT - Ignition Coil Replacement Advice Requested

Went through heck this week running down a blown AM2 fuse when key is turned to ON position. Lots of wire buzzing. Ended up unplugging everything & just plugging each back in, one at a time, with a key-turn test. Ignition coil is the winner / loser. Saw a Denso link in one of the threads but I couldn't find my replacement on their website. For the 95, 2WD, 2.4, AT, they use the integrated ignition coil pack attached to the distributor assy.
Two questions:
1) who thinks I should replace the entire distributor (and why)?
2) anyone have a good source (I'm short-cutting here but I'll keep checking this site in the meantime)

Thanks for any advice.

 

I don't have the same vehicle as you but it sounds similar to my 92 Camry I recently bought.

If there is oil inside your distributor then thats a problem. If it's dry then I would just replace the coil and carry on.

I rebuilt the distributor on my camry due to oil leaking through it and the coil integrated with it being cracked. My coil failed because the spark plugs look like they're been in there since 92... also took out my igniter and ECM.

If you want to rebuild it beyond changing the coil then you'll have to plan for down time as you'll have to source a seal and bearing for it from a bearing store. Also don't forget to either measure the air gap specs before disassembly with feeler blades or find the specs in a service manual or you're gonna be screwed.

For replacement, I would recommend OEM of course since it lasted this long or an OEM supplier like Denso, NGK, Delphi, etc.

Sources I would say either partsouq.com for OEM or otherwise rockauto. Don't forget to check your plugs, wires and, distributer cap/rotor as often a coil fails due to being overworked via an ignition component past it's prime.

 

I've a 98 .....

last summer I kept blowing the AM2 fuse...
turns out the ignition switch.....the contacts were shot...

Ign movie (youtube.com)


It would not do it until it got hot, and you accelerated.

 

Thanks a ton to you both for the feedback / advice.
I went through the ignition switch continuity test per my Haynes and it acted like the book described so I feel pretty good about the ignition switch being good.
Joba27n, I am removing the dist today and will definitely check for oil. Also, admittedly, my plugs & components are old, although they may not have a lot of miles as I drove a company car for years. Was going to check them anyway. Thanks for the reminder. Appreciate the tip about the air gap in the event of a rebuild. Full-blown replacement is a consideration because, well, 30 years old and, as you mentioned, some parts are getting difficult to source. Denso or NGK are the way I planned to go for components.

Thanks, again, for the great advice. I hope I can provide such value when it's my turn.

I will update soon.

 

let us know the outcome, hopefully you can just change the coil out and call it a day.

I know when I priced out a reman from Napa since Toyota discontinued my distributer is was over 700$ plus a core charge of 225$. Combined with my terrible luck with Napa parts, it's what inspired me to rebuild it.

You can see the oil film on mine while it's installed.... along with the cracked coil.

If you go the self rebuild route, another thing to look for is a groove that you can catch with your nail where the seal rides like I have in the second photo.

If thats the case then you'll either have to drive the seal into a different depth so the sealing lip misses the groove or cut a few links off the garter spring of the seal or the new seal may not seal as well as it should.

 

Never thanked you for the additional info & photos. Thanks for sharing.
Late update... dist is oil free so I'm good there. I have all ignition components on order, should all be here by the weekend. This does not include the Ignition Module. I ohmed out the dist cap & plug wires to find inconsistencies. Not only that, the dist cap had serious contact wear as did the rotor. Checked dates and found my plugs & wires were last replaced appx 80k miles ago. I'm sweating it a little because the coil ohms out correctly per the Haynes manual and it matches the numbers of the new one. I'll let you know. Remaining parts come in on Sat. How likely do you think it is that the Ignition Module is the problem? Any thoughts? Going to be super bummed if I do all this (which is admittedly needed) but still have to run down a shorted wire.

 

Oh well, no such luck. Replaced the ignition coil, rotor & dist cap but, once I make the electrical connection to the dist, it blows. Did a test before wiring the coil and the fuse did not blow. I'm disconnected from the Mass Air sensor, noise filter & Ignition Module. This test, I did have the ECM connected so there's a chance it's that.
Going to go buy a few more fuses then disconnect the ECM for one test. Any ideas? It appears that I'm grounding the hot side through the coil so maybe it's another part of the distributor that's grounded, like the pick-up coil or the condenser.
Starting to get a complex here.

 

Ignition condenser was the reason my AM2 fuse was blowing. To confirm (before replacing and to test my now questionable troubleshooting skills) I simply left the condenser lug off of the coil with everything else connected normally. Fuse didn't blow! Once I found the right schematic, it was pretty obvious as this condenser was pretty much the only thing between this fuse and the coil. My confusion was with the Haynes schematics that showed drawings for internal and external ignition coil types. I ohmed it out between the coil's + lead (where the condenser connects) and other grounds but didn't get continuity so that threw me. The part was dead-assed shorted, that's for sure. Anyway... the real reason for this whole condition is lack of ignition system maintenance. I had 60-80k and a lot of years on the parts. The plugs were worn beyond a reasonable gap and there was visible wear on the distributor cap contacts as well as the rotor. It's all been replaced now. The coil was actually good and measured resistance between leads identical to the new one so I kept it. The NGK replacement was easy to find through Auto Zone. I didn't change the pick-up coil either.
These trucks are so reliable, even with poor maintenance. It's easy to neglect some of the intervals when everything appears to be going fine. Keep an eye on that stuff and she'll never let you down.
Thanks again, to everyone who offered feedback.
Now, I'm looking to replace my steelies with some newer wheels (without spending $800).

 

Pm sent

 

I have a problem that sounds like that of 95toLIFE - blowing AM2 fuse. The short seems to be located at the distributor. I am interested in details about how to replace the coil and/or condenser. joba27n also seems to have experience. Can either of you share or identify information for how to replace the condenser and coil?

 

As an update, I removed the distributor and took it apart and replaced the condenser. Everything else inside the distributor looked OK. The condenser material did look like it melted. I would guess it is easier to pull the distributor and work on it on the bench than to work on it on the vehicle. It seems that the unit with the magnet has to be removed, and the condenser fits in fairly snuggly. When removing the distributor, I did make sure that the timing mark on the pulley was lined up with TDC mark and that it was on the compression stroke. Make note of where the rotor is pointing before you remove the distributor because it will turn while being removed. Reinstall the distributor so the rotor ends up in the same position.

 

Got here late, jlwalsh22, sorry about that. Sounds like you worked it out. Did it work? Was it the condenser? I was able to get mine out without any additional disassembly. It did not want to come straight out but, oddly, it was easier to install than to remove. The coil on my 95 2RZFE was right on top of the distributor once the cover was removed. It came out with only two screws.
Hope you got her running.