7 Way Trailer Connector - Where's the power wire?

I'm installing a 7-way trailer wiring harness (ACDelco TC177 Professional Inline to Trailer Wiring Harness Connector) on my stock 2001 Toyota Tacoma SR5. I only need power, ground and clearance lights for my old camper. But I figured I would install the whole 7-wire kit in case I ever need the other connections.

I've found all the connections I need on my truck except for the power wire. I'm wondering if I need to run a wire from the engine compartment to the back of the truck. Or maybe I'm just not seeing the power wire. I'm attaching a few pictures of the existing wiring, most of which was installed by U-Haul when I had trailer lights installed.

I'm sure I've left out a few vital bits of information, so please ask for more information as needed. And thanks in advance for your time.

 

01 likely had the regular 4 setup, no power wire. You'll want to run from the battery.

 

Yep. And on my trucks the first thing I do is mount a small marine buss bar and length of battery cable under the hood for power. This way I don’t have a rats nest of wires coming off the battery.

 

I like using accessory fuse blocks for the same purpose.

 

If it's not a factory trailer setup it won't have a power wire. Run a #8 (good for 30 amps) and fuse it at the battery end.

 

Here's what I did. My 2011 has the towing package, but the hot accessory lead to the trailer harness is only hot with the switch "on" or in "accessory". I wanted it hot all the time, so I could use my trailer interior lights and accessory ports without having the switch on. I installed an accessory fuse block on the metal fender liner just below the fuse box inside the engine bay (left fender). I tapped from the positive line to the main fuse block (red arrow in 1st picture) with a 8 gauge wire to the accessory block (green arrow in 2nd picture). That wire has its own inline fuse, not seen in the pictures. Each output on the accessory block has its own fuse. I ran a 10 gauge wire from the accessory block to the trailer power connector, cut the switched wire from the truck's harness and connected the hot lead from the accessory fuse block. I also run my driving lights from the accessory block. The main fuse is a 20 amp, just less than the total of the three circuits' individual fuses, so any overload on one circuit will blow the main fuse if all are being used. That's unlikely, as I don't use the driving lights if I'm parked and have the trailer interior lights on.

 

There is a reason they did that. Run all your gear in the camper wake up to a dead battery in you truck 20 miles from nowhere. It's called an isolator.

 

It's a small cargo trailer and I only use the lights for a couple of hours. I have enough battery power in my portable supply to crank a semi, and if all else fails, I have my NOCO Genius jump starter. It's just easier to run the couple of LED trailer lights off the truck. The portable supply runs my telescopes and cameras, it's a 100 amp-hr deep cycle battery.