6x9 speaker suggestions

Wanting to change out my head unit and change out my door speakers to get more volume and more BASS, without having to do a subwoofer. What 6x9s have you guys had without an amp powering them, just the HU and put out some bass? I want it to be like I have a single sub in the truck. The factory tweeters are fine for me with the highs, but I want more bass. Any recommendations? I've read up on Megavox but can;t find anywhere to buy them. Amazon has some good reviews on RFosgates. Any out there that just give off the boom?

 

Not sure if you're being realistic. Any speaker, 6x9, 6.5, etc. running off of HU power is more then likely NOT going to give you a single sub boom. Bass requires power,,, HUs power is probably 20-30W continuous. Door mounted speakers are not an optimum solution for low bass since they can't be sealed very well.

 

Yah, figured that. Maybe I should rephrase what I want. I just want to know the best "bass" door speakers people have heard/own. Maybe it's not sub worthy, but still will have some deep sounds. thanks!

 

My Hybrid Audio L6's can play at 63hz with no problem at all. Very clean sounding. You would more than likely need an amp though.

 

I have Focals (30th anniversary editions 6-1/2 component sets) that push out some really good bass for being a door speaker. Hybrid Audio can go a lot lower still.

If you want more bass with no sub, get a good amp and some really nice speakers.. Then use Fatmat or something similar and cover all the holes on your doors.. This will turn the door into a box basically. Still you won't bet getting any real bass out of this, but it will help with the door speakers playing the low notes.

 

I really like my Rockford Fosgate P1675-S component speakers. 6.75 inch diameter. Much clearer than stock. Good amount of CLEAN bass too.

OEM speakers had the most bass without going to a sub b/c paper cones can go lower in the freq range than plastic cones, but with paper cones, it wasn't clear sounding and very muddy.

 

If you're going to be putting in new speakers you may as well throw one of these under your seat while youre at it.

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-TShBTYXnZNI/p_777B8PT/Sound-Ordnance-B-8PT.html

This will give you PLENTY of bass.

 

Would this fit under the back seats? or more like under the driver/passenger seats?

 

Either location it can fit

 

How about some Polk Audio MM691's.

 

BTW, I wouldn't limit myself to 6x9 only. Yes, they have a bit more cone area, but a good 6.5/6.75 round will pretty much match the low capability.

As already mentioned, getting the door sealed as much as possible will help the speaker do it's work.

People who buy the Sound Ordinance stuff also seem to be pretty happy with the results, given what it is.

 

I found that my 6x9 were louder than my 6.75, but they weren't as clean as the 6.75 and the 6.75 had a lower bass note

 

Most HU won't put out enough power for aftermarket speakers, you will more than likely need an amp to get the best sound quality. Not enough power to the speakers and your just wasting your $$$ and is a common cause of blown speakers.

 

The first part is accurate, but the second is not. You cannot blow a speaker by underpowering it. Read Mr Marv's post that is stickied on this subforum.


As far as selecting speaker you need to go and do your own homework some speakers sound great to one person and sound horrible to another. Go to a store and listen to a variety of speakers to figure out what you want, then hit the internet for the best prices.

 

Well the first part isn't all that accurate either. Not a thing wrong with running aftermarket speakers off of HU power. The key is to ensure that you get an efficient speaker that will convert as much power to output as it can. That is what the efficiency rating for speakers gives you. A highly efficient speaker or componenet set will give you much better sound than the stock setup.

 

I was referencing the amplifier for the best quality, sorry for any confusion. You can also buy modules to attach to your head unit to add a little power to speakers instead of just an amplifier.

 

This is what I meant but put it much simpler terms above but since you guys wanna get technical on me here is further explanation refer to method #2

How to Blow a Speaker

I suppose most of us are under the impression that the way to blow a speaker was to send it more power than it can handle. This is only partly true, as I found out. There are actually two ways to blow a speaker.

Method #1: Too much volume
This is probably what most of us think of when it comes to blowing speakers. Is it caused by having too powerful of an amp? Not necessarily. What happens here is that you drive a speaker louder than it can go for too long of a time. Did you ever notice that, on low notes, the woofer in a speaker moves in and out? They are supposed to do that--but only to a certain distance. If you ask a speaker to move farther and faster than it was built for, the cone will rip apart, and you'll have to either re-foam or re-cone your speaker. If you try to play music out of it at that point, it will make an ugly scraping sound because the voice coil (the part under the dust cap) is rubbing against the magnet. This type of "blowing" normally happens to woofers, because it has to travel the largest distance, but it can also happen to mids, tweeters, planar and ribbon drivers as well.

The problem here is that speakers can only go so loud. Using a more powerful amp will not make the speakers any louder if they are already at their peak. All the more powerful amp will do is push the speakers beyond what they were meant to do, and eventually push the voice coil farther than it was designed to go, and rip, out it goes. By the way, if a you really do have an issue of the sound not being loud enough, and the speaker is at its peak, the solution is either to buy/build a speaker with higher sensitivity, or add more speakers. This is why ampitheaters aren't driven by a single speaker, but several; it's too much work for just one speaker to do.

Method #2: Not enough amp
This is the scenario that puzzles people. You may have heard it before, though. If you are at a party or live venue, and the sound system just isn't carrying over the sound in the room, someone keeps turning the volume knob up. But if the amp doesn't have enough power to do what you're asking it, it will try anyway, in an ugly distorted manner. Yes, that's the amp distorting, not the speakers. The sound waves the amp is trying to produce are too big, so it literally "clips" the tops of the waveforms off, and the end result has a sort of "buzzing" sound. The speakers can handle this for a while, but eventually the buzzing sound wears them out, and causes the voice coil to heat up. If you drive a speaker for long enough with this "clipping/buzzing" sound, the coil will heat up to the point that its parts melt together, and the speaker pretty much fails to work anymore. There's really nothing you can do here but buy a new speaker. This kind of speaker blowing is common in the tweeter and midrange drivers, as they usually bear the brunt of the buzzing sound. I like to call this the "cheap car stereo" method, because it is that sound you hear when someone has a crappy car stereo, and they try to blast it for the neighborhood to hear, and it just sounds fuzzy. It's actually not the speakers that are distorting, it's the amp--and eventually, it will melt the coils in the speakers. Maybe that will get the jerk to stop blasting his music.

So can too powerful of an amp really blow speakers? Actually, the chances of blowing a speaker are far more likely with the combination of too weak of an amplifier for too large of speakers (as in the case of method #2). Using a very powerful amp with less-powerful speakers is actually a safe bet, as long as you are listening to the music at normal listening volumes, and not trying to broadcast down the block.

 

Wrong. I've seen speakers die from too little power.. It causes the speakers to clip.

Yes, you read it right - under powering can blow speakers. In fact, it is a very common cause for speakers failing. This is a little bit difficult for people to understand, however, we will attempt to present a brief explanation here. Speaker science is very complicated (very few people in the world understand it fully), so we cannot hope to give a very thorough explanation in just a few lines in this booklet.

When a speaker receives power from your amplifier it converts most of the power into sound by moving back and forth and causing the air to vibrate. However, it is not 100% efficient and some of the energy is converted into heat. The higher the power, the higher the heat. When a speaker is given a signal that is clipped, it actually receives far more continuous power than it would when it is given a clean (not distorted) signal. This is converted into more heat than the speaker was designed to handle and the coil literally burns. It can, in extreme situations, actually catch on fire (remember, the cone is made of paper)!

So, you can use a power amplifier that puts out considerably less power than the speaker is rated for, and yet, because it is being run into clipping, the speaker will blow. The harder the amplifier is clipped (the louder the distortion), the greater the chance of this happening. Tweeters are particularly sensitive to clipping because a clipped signal generally has lots of extra high harmonics (high frequencies) and tweeters are normally able to handle only small amounts of power. However, woofers can be blown due to clipping as well. It's not the under powering that causes the problem, it's the distortion that often occurs as a result of under powering that is the culprit.

 

Great explanation! and 100% correct!

 

Should I get alpine type r 6x9's or the component spr-60c's? I will get a amp to power them also