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60K Service Interval - What and how much?

Discussion in '3rd Gen. Tacomas (2016-2023)' started by youcanrunnaked, Oct 28, 2024.

  1. Oct 28, 2024 at 2:55 PM
    #1
    youcanrunnaked

    youcanrunnaked [OP] Active Member

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    Greetings. I've got 61,000 on our 2021 Tacoma TRD Off Road, Double Cab, Automatic transmission. The truck has not been used for towing or any heavy hauling, and has not been taken off-road. I have occasionally switched the truck to 4Hi while on straight, level ground, to work the transfer case and from differential, per the owner’s manual.

    I am trying to minimize cost while not neglecting necessary maintenance. Other that the oil and filter change, tire rotation, and recommended inspections per the normal use maintenance schedule, I would like to know from the below list what service the hive mind recommends, a fair price for each (dealer or independent shop), whether I am forgetting anything, and if some things are unnecessary or could be postponed (and if so, until when):

    Spark plug replacement

    I know Toyota recommends this at 60K mi.; that seems like a really short interval for iridium plugs. What have people seen as far as spark plug wear on the V6?

    My other concern is that there seem to be two widely different prices for this service, depending on whether the tech uses the service manual procedure of removing the intake manifold. Do all dealers insist on doing it that way? I’ve seen this thread showing it can be done without removing the manifold:
    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/3rd-gen-tacoma-spark-plug-replacement.554468/

    Transfer case drain and fill
    Rear differential fluid drain and fill
    Front differential fluid drain and fill
    Transmission fluid drain; clean and inspect the pan, reseal and fill

    I have seen conflicting advice on the above fluid changes. I know Toyota recommends only “inspection” of these cases and their fluids at 60K mi, but I do not believe manufacturer claims of a “sealed” case or “lifetime” fluid.

    I’ve also seen advice that one either changes the automatic transmission fluid every 60 - 80K miles or never changes it, because changing it after the transmission has accumulated high mileage can cause slippage. Maybe this is a myth? IDK. Between the two, I would prefer regular fluid changes to never a fluid change.​

    Test coolant
    Test brake fluid
    Test power steering fluid

    My understanding is that these fluids can be tested to see if they are still good, but should any of them be tested, now? Is there a time or mileage limit to any of them? ​

    Brake inspection

    At last service (5K mi ago) brakes were at 50%, and the rear drums were cleaned out, so I expect they will still be good, but at what point should I expect to replace pads and shoes? For there front, can I do pads and resurface the rotors as needed, or must the rotors be replaced along with the pads? ​

    Engine air filter inspection
    Cabin air filter inspection

    I know I replaced both at a prior service, maybe at 30K or 40K miles, but I’m not sure what the interval should be. The truck is not used in dusty conditions. Can the existing filters be blown out with compressed air, rather than replaced?​

    Alignment

    Never done one. The truck tracks straight, and the OEM tires wore evenly and lasted to 50K miles, so I elected to skip the alignment when replacing them. The current General AT/X tires show even wear at 10K miles. I know factory alignments are iffy, but maybe this one is good?
     
  2. Oct 28, 2024 at 3:16 PM
    #2
    TnShooter

    TnShooter The TacomaWorld Stray

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    Differentials
    Transfer Case
    Drain & Fill on the transmission
    And you should do the brake fluid (Most people don’t. But you should)

    Then again at 100k along with coolant and the trans filter.
     
    brigsby99 and youcanrunnaked[OP] like this.
  3. Oct 28, 2024 at 3:33 PM
    #3
    OLDTRAP

    OLDTRAP Well-Known Member

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    "The truck has not been used for towing or any heavy hauling, and has not been taken off-road"

    Do your diffs and your transfer case, change oil. Check PS and brake. Spark plugs if you feel the need. It's an easy job so why not do all at once. Drive confidently for another 50k mi.
     
    youcanrunnaked[OP] likes this.
  4. Oct 28, 2024 at 3:39 PM
    #4
    TAZMINATOR

    TAZMINATOR Well-Known Member

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  5. Oct 28, 2024 at 3:52 PM
    #5
    rndsommer40

    rndsommer40 Well-Known Member

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    This and don't forget to wash it. Fluid film if up North or out West.
     
  6. Oct 28, 2024 at 4:24 PM
    #6
    Chew

    Chew Not so well known user

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  7. Nov 21, 2024 at 12:56 PM
    #7
    youcanrunnaked

    youcanrunnaked [OP] Active Member

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    Thanks to those who replied.

    Here's what my dealer replied with when I asked about recommended service at 60K miles:

    Oil and filter change $130
    Tire rotation NO CHARGE
    Transfer case drain and fill $380
    Rear differential fluid drain and fill $380
    Front differential fluid drain and fill $380
    Transmission fluid drain; clean and inspect the pan, reseal and fill $380
    Test coolant $160
    Test brake fluid $160
    Test power steering fluid $160
    Engine air filter inspection $55
    Cabin air filter inspection $55
    Full vehicle inspection at no charge

    SPARK PLUG REPLACEMENT IS NOT REQUIRED UNTIL 100K MILES


    These are their book prices; I can get them discounted, depending on what I have done. In the past, this dealer has been fair with me (e.g., oil and filer for $79; a set of four AT tires at 30% below retail). I am wondering what a fair price for each service (of the total service) should be.

    I thought the 3d Gen Tacoma has iridium plugs, and those are good for 100K miles. However, spark plugs at 60K miles is in the OM. I've seen it said that this is a conservative recommendation to guarantee Toyota's EPA compliance, and the dealer says 100K miles is fine. I'm inclined to agree, but would appreciate input from owners.

    I'm thinking coolant should be good to 100K miles. Maybe the South Florida heat requires a test now, though? Regardless, the test / inspection prices seem way off to me.

    I can probably test / inspect ps and pb fluids, and coolant, myself. I don't have the test strips for this, but getting them and DIY seems like a better strategy than spending $480 (or even half that) to have a technician test them.

    I can look at and replace as necessary engine air and cabin filter myself, but IMO they should inspect them as a courtesy, not for $110.

    The fluid changes also seem a bit high. I am not sure that I have the tools, talent, or workspace (other than a sloped driveway) to do the drain and fills. Dropping the transmission pan is another thing I'm hesitant to do myself. I'm also not sure what the fluid and filter costs are, as compared to having the dealer do them. If the price difference between materials and dealer service isn't that great, I would just have them do the work. Would like to get advice on this.
     
  8. Nov 21, 2024 at 1:09 PM
    #8
    gudujarlson

    gudujarlson Well-Known Member

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  9. Nov 21, 2024 at 1:25 PM
    #9
    youcanrunnaked

    youcanrunnaked [OP] Active Member

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    Thanks for the link. I've got a pretty good idea about intervals and what the manual recommends, but appreciate the lists.

    Here's where I'm at:

    I am going to change engine oil and filter; transfer case and differential fluids; and transmission fluid. I am looking for pricing guidelines for this maintenance: price of materials for DIY vs. fair price for a dealer or independent shop to do this service. (Dropping the transmission pan is an open issue with me; wondering if that's part of the needed service.)

    Spark plugs at 100K mi vs 60K mi, is the other open issue. (FWIW, truck is running fine.)

    As for the rest (test / inspect) I am thinking will be DIY, unless the dealer basically throws them in.
     
  10. Nov 21, 2024 at 1:28 PM
    #10
    gudujarlson

    gudujarlson Well-Known Member

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    There isn’t really more to this than what is the owners manual and the linked info in this thread. If you want to follow a different schedule that’s up to you. It probably won’t make any noticeable difference in the long run.
     
    jmneill and Chew like this.
  11. Nov 21, 2024 at 4:22 PM
    #11
    STEELeR43

    STEELeR43 Well-Known Member

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    If you don’t have have the confidence, or not mechanically inclined, or even think mechanically inclined, I recommend not to do even the basic service on your Tacoma. Take it to other shops, no need dealer. You can fawk up things up real bad, simple easy jobs, all fawked.
     
  12. Nov 21, 2024 at 4:34 PM
    #12
    Uscgamecock7

    Uscgamecock7 Well-Known Member

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    Im still in awe of how they can charge 380 for a drain and refill on each diff and the transfer case. Grab some gear, oil do it yourself, save some dough, and smile. Its literally a drain and refill. You do have to get under the truck though…..
     
  13. Nov 21, 2024 at 4:47 PM
    #13
    Chew

    Chew Not so well known user

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    No kidding!
    Based on OP's quoted prices: if I was a service writer quoting those prices, I would be wearing a mouth guard and headgear!
     
    brigsby99 likes this.
  14. Nov 22, 2024 at 3:14 AM
    #14
    Mas Olas

    Mas Olas Well-Known Member

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    Neighbor is a Toyota Master mechanic. He said 100k for plugs, trans and other fluids. Oil 10k. Dont over think it.
     
    youcanrunnaked[OP] likes this.
  15. Nov 22, 2024 at 4:51 AM
    #15
    Nirango kid

    Nirango kid Well-Known Member

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    Keep away from dealers for maintenance $$$$$$$. Warranty issue only. I have been using the same family garage for 25 years on all my new Tacomas 93,08,19,2021 and they follow the Toyota maintenance menus as required. I only go to Dealers for New Vehicles.
     
  16. Nov 22, 2024 at 7:54 AM
    #16
    brigsby99

    brigsby99 Member

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    If a dealer wanted to charge $55 just to *inspect* my air filters (or even to replace) I’d leave them a 1-star review and never return.

    Those prices alone are absolutely insane. It takes literally 30 seconds and zero mechanical skill to inspect or replace either.

    $380 per diff is also wild considering it’s easier than an oil change.

    Doing the oil, diffs, t-case, and transmission is probably a good choice for 60k.

    At 30k I did all these (minus t-case and manual transmission instead) for my truck for the first time and bought everything I needed.

    Total cost was probably $200-$300 for all fluids, gaskets, filters, and random tools like an oil drain pan and oil filter wrench. Future maintenance should be even cheaper now I have the tools I need.

    As far as changing your automatic transmission fluid… I’ve watched a few videos for the automatics and don’t recall seeing the pan dropped. That seems very excessive and definitely wouldn’t do it myself. Besides that, the automatic transmission fluid change seems fairly easy, although a bit more complicated than for the manual.

    I don’t know reasonable shop prices for these services, though I think my dealer said they’d do each diff for like $180 each.

    I’d either find a different shop or do it yourself… it’s fun, easy to learn, rewarding, and cheaper. Plus, you’ll know it’s done right and have a better intuition about your truck and what could be wrong in the future. Just by checking the power steering fluid myself I recognized a slight power steering rack leak and had it replaced under warranty by the dealer. If I hadn’t started doing my own maintenance, that leak would’ve grown over time and caused actual issues.
     
    TacoJoe480 and Chew like this.
  17. Nov 22, 2024 at 8:11 AM
    #17
    TacoJoe480

    TacoJoe480 Well-Known Member

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    Many!
    I have a 2021 TRD Sport 2WD AT that just turned 60k and did a lot of this myself. I used all Toyota parts and fluids except for the rear diff where I used Valvoline 75W90 synthetic in the 'bags' which made it much easier.

    I changed:

    Engine Oil/Filter (I change every 5k miles)
    Transmission Fluid drain and fill (did not remove the pan)
    Changed Rear Diff oil
    Cleaned the MAF sensor and Throttle Body
    Changed Engine Air Filter (Changed the cabin filter about 4 months ago so it was still good)
    Checked Brake, Coolant and Power Steering Fluids (all good and will change at 100k)
    Replaced front brake pads and rotors and inspected rear brake pads.
    Replaced Spark Plugs
    Got new tires (I was still running the originals)

    I did all of this myself except for the tires. None of it was difficult and it will save you a lot of money. The most difficult was the plugs. I did them in a little under 2 hours but I took my time and changed 1 plug at a time. There are a lot of YouTube videos on all of these procedures and they help a lot. I know some folks don't have the time, space or tools to do all of this but I enjoy wrenchin' on vehicles.

    I realize some of this will be overkill to some but I plan on keeping my truck for a very long time.
     
    dryheat and Canadian Caber like this.
  18. Dec 2, 2024 at 1:19 PM
    #18
    youcanrunnaked

    youcanrunnaked [OP] Active Member

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    Thanks for all the replies. To clarify a few points:

    The dealer's "test / inspect" prices are to replace; the prices assume the inspections will fail. The tests/ inspections themselves are NC.

    The prices quoted are the dealer's book prices. I agree with everyone that these prices are excessive. What would be a fair price for these services? (FWIW, I have a good relationship with the service manager at the dealership where we bought the truck. They have promised a significant discount on their book prices, depending on what services I ask them to perform, but I would like to know what prices I can reasonably expect.)

    I'm certain I can replace the engine and cabin air filters myself.

    I'm pretty sure I can drain and fill all of the fluids myself, but dropping the AT pan may be outside my comfort zone. Given some comments, I'm not sure how necessary that is.

    The discounted price the dealer charges me for oil changes is $79, and tire rotation is NC (bought the tires there). I've had the dealer do these services every 5K miles. I will probably continue to do so, because I've priced the materials for DIY, and I'd be saving maybe $30 on an oil and filter change, and still have to take the truck in for tire rotation.

    I'm fairly certain the spark plugs can go to 100K miles, but not sure I can do it myself. What should having a mechanic do it cost?

    In addition to asking about these services here, I think I've found a local shop that I can trust, and am asking them for their opinions and a quote on these services. I am grateful for the input here, and I think that with all of the information I'm collecting, I'll be able to make an informed decision. Thanks again.
     
  19. Dec 2, 2024 at 1:27 PM
    #19
    gudujarlson

    gudujarlson Well-Known Member

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    As worried as you are about your truck celebrating its 60k birthday, I’m skeptical that you would feel comfortable running naked. :)
     
    youcanrunnaked[OP] likes this.
  20. Dec 2, 2024 at 1:34 PM
    #20
    youcanrunnaked

    youcanrunnaked [OP] Active Member

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    Here's what I received just now as the dealer's book / "discounted" prices. :eek:

    Oil and filter change$130 $100

    Tire rotationNO CHARGE

    Transfer case drain and fill$380 $340

    Rear differential fluid drain and fill$380 $340

    Front differential fluid drain and fill$380 $340

    Transmission fluid drain; clean and inspect the pan, reseal and fill$380 $340

    REPLACE coolant$160 $140

    REPLACE brake fluid$160 $140

    REPLACE power steering fluid$160 $140

    Engine air filter inspection$55 $45

    Cabin air filter inspection$55 $45

    Fuel system cleaning service $170 $150

    Full vehicle inspection at No charge


    SPARK PLUG REPLACEMENT IS NOT REQUIRED UNTIL 100K MILES - $704.95

    "Fuel filter replacement is not required on this vehicle unless the fuel tank has to come down for some reason. The filters are no longer accessible (in-line) as before. I did include a fuel system cleaning service price as I had missed to include that before."
     
    Last edited: Dec 2, 2024

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