6" lift pros/cons

Just wanting to know some of the pros and cons yall have had with a 6" lift.

 

What type of 6” lift?
Drop bracket?

 

Yes sir

 

Pros:
Cheaper than Long Travel.
The CV angles kept “better” inline

Cons:
You are cutting out part of your cross-member. Which is an argument for potentially “weaker” structural integrity.
Limited to aftermarket skids and parts.

Thats just a few.

I’ve only had experience with 1 drop bracket lift.
It wasn’t on a Toyota, and it isn’t wheeled hard.

 

6in diff drop bracket = You have entered Floridaman territory

 

Drop brackets will bend if you get to crazy with it.
Saw it happen on a truck right in front of me when climbing up a big ledge. He fixed it by replacing the drop cross bracket, but it never seemed to align correctly afterwards. I will look for the pics.

Good luck with your truck.

 

no

 

Drop bracket rides like total garbage, bordering on dangerous, constantly has shit coming loose, wears tires quicker and gains you nothing.

 

You gains the ability to run larger wheels/tires.
Other than that, you are mostly correct. The gains are not worth it.

And no, I’m not for DB lifts.
They are not for me.

 

Remember your true ground clearance is at the axle line. Only tires raise that. Suspension lift will change approach/departure angles, but generally that doesn't matter much on a DB truck.

It's mostly considered a looks thing. And it greatly narrows your resale market. Well, at least among knowledgeable folk.

 

Con. Significantly reduces the group size of people interested in your truck if you decide to sell.

 

The problem with 6” lift is you need to pony up and buy a coil over set or don’t bother.

They ride great with coils from bds.

but most have massive top hat spacers on factory shocks. So they ride like trash.

A good 6” is over 2500$ anything less is brodozer garbage.

They fit 35s no issue and can off-road moderate trails no issue.

 

these two are the only ones I agree with.
I run a DB.

I regret it, knowing what I know now. Only reason why I regret it however, is because it makes it a bit difficult to load my 150qt fishing coolers. Had I stayed 3”, I would’ve gone Fox coilovers and a full leaf pack to handle the weight. At this height however, for a 3rd Gen Tacoma anyway, I’d drag my bumpers freaking everywhere..
I have a pro comp on mine, full length bilsteins up front,14” Bilstein 5160 for the rear, Alcan leaf pack 650lb over stock capacity and 6” spring (I like a rake for when I load shit), archive hammer hangers and a whole bunch of shit. It gets expensive really quick!
I don’t go on steep ass trails like Moab or bash my shit on rocks, but I’d like to say I do moderate things with it (I work wayyyy too hard to bash my only brand new vehicle in my life against things)
I mainly traverse very uneven volcanic rock, and sand here and there
Anyways, if you do go DB lift here’s my thoughts:

Get FULL length shocks for the front. Fox or King coilovers, or Bilstein makes a full length strut (what I’m currently using) Accutune can tune them accordingly (not the Bilstein tho)
Also upgrade to a better shock in the rear, and get a full leaf pack in order to ditch the block. I have zero axle wrap in mine, Alcan knows what they’re doing.

I honestly have no idea what people are talking about regarding tires wear out quicker, rides like shit, or whatever. Like stated, the above two I quoted are the only ones I agree with. The others prolly don’t have a DB lift and are getting their miss-info from hearsay on Tacomaworld.
I’m giving you my personal experience.

With that being said, once you go DB, you can never go back (unless you have some one fab the crossmember but it’ll never be the same)

I wish I had some off road action pics but I’m too lazy nowadays to get outta my truck to snap pics…if I’m offroad, I seriously wanna just get to my spot as safely and fast as possible cause I wanna freaking fish hahaha…plus I’m getting older

Whatever you decide, remember:
Buy once, cry once.

 

forgot to quote you as well.
agree.

good luck finding skids online - no one makes um. Have to go custom

 

Pros:
• you’ll gain real lift, in other way you have to limit uptravel or not gain any more room for the tires when compressed the front suspension
• you’ll save the steering rack for the premature wear because the steering rods keeps near to vertical as originally
• no need to cut frame if Rough Country kit is used (I’d choose 4” kit instead of 6” kit)

 

Pros there is none

Cons truck will look lame ass shit
Have to cut cross member
And just don't.

 

That's a pretty solid hitting the nail squarely on the head.

One of the best things you can do for in the event you ever sell or have some other reason to remove the kit, save the piece that is cut from your crossmember. This way you have the (unique) piece that fits in the space on your frame and it is only a matter of welding it (or having it welded) back into place.

 

Or buy Rough Country’s kit, when you don’t have to cut the crossmember. Upgrade it with decent coilovers/shocks are you are good.

 

Rough Country 4 & 6" DB kits both require cutting the crossmember (they use the same drop-downs, only the spring spacers are different between the 4" and 6").
https://s3.amazonaws.com/roughcountry/install/921757200B.pdf (Step 29 & 30)

The RC 3.5" kit doesn't require cutting, it is not a DB kit (though I can't imagine the CV joints & steering rack are going to live long with that much lift and no DBs or knuckles).

 

If you're 2wd you can do a 4" spindle lift with a 2" suspension lift. The spindle lift keeps stock geometry and requires no cutting.