4.0L V6 with bad head gasket (repair or replace?)

So I started thinking about the installation process when I get back next week. Specifically the installation of the timing cover.

I believe I watched every related video on YouTube but no one specifically mentions about how to install the FIPG (seal packing) between the bottom of the timing cover and the top of the oil pan. I haven't tried to reinstall the cover yet, but I assume it is has to slide straight on.

My concern is that if you install the FIPG on the top of the oil pan and then slide the cover over it, doesn't the cover push the FIPG over the oil seal which sits on top of the oil pan?

This seems like you would need to put the FIPG on the bottom of the timing cover in front of the oil seal to avoid this from happening.


Also, is there a preference when to install the front crankshaft seal assuming I remove it prior to assembly? Should this be done before or after I install the timing cover? It seems like installing the seal before installing the cover would be easier, but I am not sure if it makes it harder to slide the timing cover on since the seal would be new.

I appreciate the feedback as usual.

 

Not sure how I missed this, but according to the FSM there are two types of seal packing that is called for when assembling the timing cover. I rewatched all of the related YouTube videos but none seem to specifically mention what type of seal packing is used.

You can see the from attached section of the FSM below that it calls for the following types:

1) 08826-00080 (replaced by

$21 00295-00103 Formed-in-Place Oil Pan Gasket - 3 oz. Tube

00295-00103)
- This appears to be referenced for the oil pan gasket, on the front of the head gaskets, and also on the timing cover. I already have this one.

2)

$90 08826-00100 Toyota Seal Packing - 08826-00100

08826-00100
- This is also referenced when installing the timing cover as well. I'm not sure what the difference is between this one the one above. Specific to the water pump??? I also noticed that the ends of the water pump bolts appeared to have some silicone on the threads. I don't have this yet.

Thoughts???

 

I remember this topic/question from about a year ago (see below links for reference). Basically, use the 00080 on oil sections and 00100 on water pump sections (or their equivalents).

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/preferred-rtv-sealant-for-timing-chain-cover.747431/

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/broken-vvt-phaser.731861/#post-26596092

 

Taking this on starting tomorrow. Wish me luck

 

Thank you. I guess I need to decide which to use. Meaning, OEM or an aftermarket option. If I go OEM, I will need to go straight to the dealer. I have ordered from several online Toyota dealers for my parts so far and it has taken almost 1.5 to 2 weeks to get the order after it has been placed.

 

Good luck. Take your time. I would suggest considering labeling connectors in addition to taking pictures of where wiring harnesses go. Definitely bag and label your bolts.

 

Watching this thread, as i'll be doing this to my truck sometime in the next few weeks

 

Got back in town last night. Started working on the truck again.

I cleaned up the cylinder block surface and did some cleaning of the pistons. I used a plastic razor blade and a brass brush along with some brake cleaner. I also wiped the cylinders with some oil.

How oil free does the block surface need to be? If I spray down the surface with brake cleaner it will go into the cylinders and remove any oil residue I have applied.

Should I just be using a microfiber towel and apply the brake cleaner to that and then wipe the surface?

 

I got back to working on the truck today and started to reassemble. I got both heads installed. I am hoping the pace will start to pick up now.

I had to open the FIPG to use with the head gasket installation. The tube came with a cap but I wonder how I can clean or keep the applicator tip from getting clogged up so I can reuse it with the timing cover later.

Let me know if you have any suggestions on how to clean up the FIPG / silicone from the applicator tip.

 

I have a similar pic on my phone haha

Use too much on the last use and pull it out next day

 

For the FIPG, leave a bead hanging out of the applicator/tube. It will dry externally, but stay fresh internally. When you want to use again, just remove the dry exposed bead.

 

thanks guys. Appreciate the quick response. I was just about to do something stupid and try and clean the applicator out.

 

Leave the applicator attached to the tube of FIPG. Might as well throw the cap away.

I'm currently assembling an engine at work. 3.0L from a 1988 4Runner.

 

The exhaust routing is idiotic on those. Looks like its likely in mint shape.

We have a 3.4 with major head issues that just got wrapped up this week.

 

Agreed on the exhaust. Got new original hardware for the exhaust thankfully.

 

Damn that’s clean!

 

ZGUY1, you mentioned that you worried about dragging the sealant while unstained installing the cover. For one, take the crank seal off and leave the new one off until you have the cover installed. This helps in 2 ways. Helps you adjust the oil pump to slide over the crank. And gives you a little wiggle room with moving the cover around. I also take off the 2 studs located towards the bottom. A lot of people use those for alignment. But personally they are in my way. Definitely dry fit the cover. And DEFINITELY DEFINITELY make sure you use good amount of FIPG at the junctions where the upper oil pan, cover, block meet and the heads, block, and cover meet. Most 4.0s leak right behind the PS pump right where they meet.

Background of me, 12 year Toyota MDT. Have done many head gaskets.

You are doing great so far, based on what I've read. And no, Toyota does not recommend machining heads. The tolerance is pretty low. Hope you do not have any issues, my friend.

 

Thanks, this came at a perfect time. I will be heading back to the garage shortly but was starting to think that leaving the new crank seal off before installing the cover was a bad idea. I was worried about how hard it would be to install it after the fact as opposed to installing it with the timing cover laying flat on a work bench. I am going to leave it off and try to remove the 2 studs at the bottom. I will do a couple of dry fits of the cover before using the FIPG.

I also plan to use FIPG 103 for the timing cover as well as the two water pump ports (parts per the FSM). I was a bit hesitant about using 103 for the two water pump ports as well but several others suggested that they use it for both too. I have to say that I did pick up some Permatex Ultra Grey just in case I decided to make a switch last minute.

I also hope that the machining of the heads will not be an issue. I am optimistic considering how little they took off. If a mistake has been made, it has already been done so not much I can do at this point.

Aside from sealing the timing cover, the rest is just bolting things back up. I feel like I am in the home stretch. I will look to rent a seal installer for the crank seal unless there is another way to do it. I also picked up a tool to hold the harmonic balancer in order to torque the bolt on the crank shaft.

The only other things that are a bit "grey" for me are bleeding the cooling system before starting and installing the exhaust manifolds. Regarding the first, I am not sure how I can get all of the coolant in the block when the thermostat will be closed. For the second, I removed the exhaust manifolds with the heads during disassembly but left them off when I installed the heads. I hope I do not need to lower or loosen any of the exhaust components under the car in order to install the manifolds. I guess I will find out soon enough.

 

I don't use any special seal installer. I push it on with my fingers and then slowly tap it on with a hammer. Just work your way around the seal. As for crank pulley/harmonic balancer, I use a 1/2 impact and make it German specs, gudentite. Haven't had one fall off yet. Glad to see everything is going smooth.

 

The 4.0 cooling system seems to bleed relatively easily, the thermostat has an air bleed built in but if you are concerned and have access to a decent air supply you can use a vacuum fill tool like

$118 UView 550500 Airlift II Economy Cooling System Refiller

this to fill it. It holds about 2 gallons total including the overflow.

The manifolds shouldn't be much of a problem to install with the rest of the exhaust in place providing there's room to get them into position with the exhaust pipes there.