4.0L. idler pulleys, quick tutorial

I thought I read this but not sure. Are the bolts that hold on the three idler pulleys on the 4.0L reverse thread. So instead of lefty/loosey, righty/tighty it would be lefty/tighty, rightly/loosey.
Please confirm (and I guess let the jokes commence....)
thanks

Replaced all three idler pulleys and I wanted to document a few steps:
1. I used the OEM pulleys
2. As someone else stated in another post, EVERYTHING can be done from underneath the truck.
3. If you have access to a lift, use it. It's always better than laying on your back. Otherwise, put the front of the truck up on jack stands or drive it up on ramps to give yourself more room.
4. Remove the skid plate, it's four 12mm bolts.
5. ALL the idler pulley bolts AND the tensioner pulley are 14mm.
6. There is a small hole at the bottom of the tensioner assembly that allows you to place a small punch of something into the hole once you've relieved the tension on the belt. Use it.
7. The three idler pulley bolts are NOT reverse threaded. Apparently the tensioner pulley is, I did not remove that to verify.
8. A breaker bar makes it easier to break the bolts free, just more leverage, but they are not super tight. Although the bolt for the upper idler pulley, up near the alternator, is very close to the upper radiator hose so it has less room and a little less leverage. I had to use a 3/8" drive socket wrench with a shallow head for easier access. I used a 1/2" drive socket wrench on the idler pulley by the power steering pump and the lower one near the crank, plenty of room. I tend to always try to use 1/2" drive sockets first.
9. Once you break each bolt free you should be able to spin them out by hand.

Hope this helps others.

 

Only one is left, the tensioner one.

 

Here is some info on the process.
You can disregard the alternative parts if you are going OEM.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...arings-in-the-idler-tensioner-pulleys.480961/

 

Replaced all three idler pulleys and I wanted to document a few steps:
1. I used the OEM pulleys
2. As someone else stated in another post, EVERYTHING can be done from underneath the truck.
3. If you have access to a lift, use it. It's always better than laying on your back. Otherwise, put the front of the truck up on jack stands or drive it up on ramps to give yourself more room.
4. Remove the skid plate, it's four 12mm bolts.
5. ALL the idler pulley bolts AND the tensioner pulley are 14mm.
6. There is a small hole at the bottom of the tensioner assembly that allows you to place a small punch of something into the hole once you've relieved the tension on the belt. Use it.
7. The three idler pulley bolts are NOT reverse threaded. Apparently the tensioner pulley is, I did not remove that to verify.
8. A breaker bar makes it easier to break the bolts free, just more leverage, but they are not super tight. Although the bolt for the upper idler pulley, up near the alternator, is very close to the upper radiator hose so it has less room and a little less leverage. I had to use a 3/8" drive socket wrench with a shallow head for easier access. I used a 1/2" drive socket wrench on the idler pulley by the power steering pump and the lower one near the crank, plenty of room. I tend to always try to use 1/2" drive sockets first.
9. Once you break each bolt free you should be able to spin them out by hand.

Hope this helps others.

 

Do you have the part numbers for the idler pulley no 1 and no2? Thanks

 

Sorry, not handy, I’d have to look it up on a Toyota parts site, you can do the same thing. I wouldn’t be surprised if someone else replies with them

 

All part numbers are linked in the description on this vid

https://youtu.be/zko7cNG5e2s