3rzfe knock sensor help

Tried finding a diagram or video on this but can’t get a straight answer. Anyone got a good diagram of knock sensor location on the 3rz? Or have experience replacing one and or the harness? Just got the dreaded p0325 today

thanks in advance
Colton

 

@Area51Runner was kind enough to send some super helpful diagrams major shoutout to him.

would love to talk to anyone with experience doing this if possible, from what I can see (barely) it looks like the wiring chases into a larger group (unbroken), unlike the 5vz-fe. So replacing the wiring harness might not be as quick as it would be with the 3.4L. Hopefully it is just the sensor that’s the culprit.

I’m going to try to get to the sensor tmrw morning from below by dropping the starter and maybe loosening the set bolts on the fuel filter. I’ll update here with my findings.

thanks for looking

 

You should be able to get to it thru wheel well.....
you might have to pop that wheel skirt couple places....

A lot of stuff becomes easier by taking one of the front wheels off......on 2rz/3rz...

oil filter change....about 10 times easier.....


might be as simple as an oily connector.....all taco owners need electronics cleaner on speed dial......anything u take apart....and put back....

 

Here's a pic on my block buck naked.....

look above the third freeze plug from front back....

see those two holes.....rear one is big for sensor.....
the smaller forward is to bolt that sensor to the block....

 

....

 

Here's one on gen2......
little different....but at same place....

2.7 tacoma knock sensor?? | Tacoma World

 

Knock is just below the LOWER intake plenum......

and the cam sensor is just above that same area.....but its above the intake and below throttle body.... nestled in between 3rd and 4rd injector.....

 

Right on!! Thanks for the help I appreciate it

 

Its the fuel filter thats in the way......
.....everything on that side of the engine is a challenge.....

wait til you do the steering hoses.....have pull a number of stuff out of the way....

 

You happen to know what size socket fits on this sensor? I bought one But doesn’t work. It’s an oil pressure switch socket which is what Toyota calls out but it doesn’t fit, prob because I got it at autozone

 

Ps - Toyota wants $320 for the OEM part

 

Alright little update.
This morning on the way to my dads place I stopped at autozone to get a socket and contact cleaner for the connectors. When I got back in my truck to leave, cel was off. Thought maybe I had gotten lucky. But sure as shit about 3-4 miles down the road it popped back on. I felt a noticeable correction in the timing when it came back on.

So got to my dads house and we proceeded to get the truck on stands and get underneath it. We’re able to get the starter out from below, then took drivers side wheel off and got fuel filter set bolts out from there. Unhooked connector and was able to get a 27mm socket on the sensor and pulled it.

bench tested it for continuity with the body of the sensor and it did not have any. Tested it a few times to make sure. I noticed that it is definitely a knock off part judging by its appearance and from seeing them online.

I’m wondering if the part has just begun to fail and is doing so intermittently….would make sense with the situation earlier when the light went out then back on. Regardless, I want to put an oem sensor in. Toyota wants $320 for it. A friend of mine found one for me out of a running truck from a buddy of his that has a Toyota shop in the Bay Area. I decided to have him ship it to me to avoid giving Toyota that much money.

so the truck is sitting for a few days because I don’t wanna put it back together only to do this shit again in 72 hours….it was kind of a PITA. Will update when I get the new sensor in. Thanks for all your input guys

 

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?rt=...p=15&_pmc=true&LH_ItemCondition=1000&_fosrp=1

 

Replaced the part today. Put it all back together and drove well for about 10 minutes. Then the CEL came back on and started running like shit again

I inspected the wiring and it looks fine up until it jumps back in the main loom with all the other wiring. I also cleaned the male connector with some contact cleaner.
Anyone got any ideas? I’m pretty bummed


Edit - just unplugged the connector from the sensor and measured voltage to ground with ignition on. An old thread on here stated you should be getting ~5 volts. I measured .1 - .2 to ground. So there’s that

edit 2 - does anyone know how I can test voltage of the knock sensor w/ ignition on at the ecm?

 

2000 fsm.....

Helps a little but.....need someone to find that pin out.....at least you know which plug it is.....

I'm sure its in one of the fsm's.......

 

Anyone know the part # or know where I can get the connector that plugs Into the knock sensor? Looking to replace mine but can only find the v6 one online


edit - Is this the correct part?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2547617899...c_jT2tdRWK&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 

Alright so have a little update.

So this Saturday I’m going to be accessing the ECM and testing the wiring for continuity along with testing for signal voltage on the ecm itself. Hopefully this will help me narrow it down a bit more.

also, last week I unfortunately damaged the single wire connector that plugs into the knock sensor and haven’t been able to get it off since. I was trying to get the connector off with some hose pullers to check the signal voltage again without having the truck up on stands, basically trying to cheat it out and now I realized I probably should’ve just held off.

either way, I was able to find an oem sensor (used) on eBay for a pretty reasonable price and just decided to get another connector as well. I figured that replacing the napa part I originally got with an oem one would probably be best. So I’ll probably replace that and solder in the new connector as well (as soon as I figure out how to get the damn thing off, lol).

thanks for all your help and input

 

Happy to report that I think I solved the issue.

Today I accessed my ecu and pulled the e7 connector and located the prong associated with the knock circuit. I then tested that prong for continuity with a ground that I wired to the chassis and there was none, I did read an ohmic value.

I then attempted to get a voltage reading with the ignition on but was unable to stick the meter probe in the connector or shove a wire into it while it was plugged in.

Either way, when I was poking around I realized that the wire that landed on the knock sensor prong was gray in color. I thought for a second and remembered back to last weekend when I replaced the old knock sensor and could have swore the lead going into the connector for the sensor side was black. I decided to pull it to find out and sure enough it was black. I chased it back as far as I could and cut the heat shrink and wire loom off and found a shitty old connection someone hacked in that had obviously come loose. Can’t believe I pulled my hair out over this shit for 2 weeks. Coincidentally i had ordered a new connector with a pre made wire already connected, so i just soldered it in nice and clean, covered it in heat shrink and Some Super 33. I’ve driven the truck about 60 miles since i did that earlier today and the CELhas not re appeared. Every dog has his day I guess.

 

Great find, my 99 2.7 knock sensor code just started coming in the other day….

 

Good luck! Lots of good info in here.