3rz Valve Clearance Tool

Hey everyone. I'm planning to check/adjust the valve clearances on my 2002 3rz and I'm researching the process and ordering tools/supplies. I'm looking to order the Schley 88250 but it seems to be out of stock everywhere. Does anyone know if it's possible to improvise using a screwdriver or something else to hold the bucket down? I was also going to order the Kawasaki/Honda motorcycle shim tool to depress the bucket but I still need the Schley tool to hold it down.

Schley Products 88250 Valve Adjusting Tools

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014DF1AG?ie=UTF8&redirectFromSmile=1

$13 Motion Pro 08-0019 Valve Shim Tool for Kawasaki KZ

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000WJDXD0?ie=UTF8&redirectFromSmile=1

 

A friend with a big flathead screwdriver holding down the valve bucket while you remove the shim (with a small flathead + magnet) works far better than that Schley tool in my opinion. Some of the rearmost valves near the firewall can be tough, but if you get up on a step stool and lean your weight down on it, it can be done. My friend and I did both of our Tacomas (5vz's with 24 valves) this way, over a weekend. I had the Schley tool on hand and found this method easier. I'd give you the tool, but already gave it to another TW member who was adamant he would need it to do the job.

 

@Red_03Taco Do you need to hold the bucket down when the shim is removed? The Schley tool allows you to keep it compressed while you measure/reinstall but if I use a screw driver do I need to have my buddy holding the screw driver the whole time while the shim is out?

 

@BossHawg no you only hold it down long enough to remove the shim, and then you can let it come back up with no shim installed (just don't rotate the engine/camshafts, with no shim in there).

I found the Schley tool was too finicky and would always pop out when you let the bucket push back up against it. Others have said you can modify to (i.e. grind it down to the right size) to make it work better. Just buy some beer and pizza for 1/4 of the price of the tool, and invite a buddy to help you. Far easier

 

Where are you located? I have an unopened one in the garage that I ended up not needing.

 

@mwrohde I'm located in Ontario Canada, near Toronto. That might be why its hard to find one for sale since there aren't many Canadian retailers. I might just give the screw driver method a shot.

 

Here's my old post, might help out
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2nd-time-burnt-exhaust-valve.467655/page-2

 

Yeah, I’d just get an assortment of flat head screw drivers and give it a go. I bought the tool and ended up using a combination of it(the little wedge tool) and screwdrivers. The pliers looking thing was almost useless in my experience. I took it apart and would only use one side to rock the valve open then stick a screw driver in there to hold it.

 

More than one way to skin that old cat everybody talks about.

 

I just got around to checking my clearances. As per the manual intake clearance should be 0.006 - 0.010in and exhaust should be 0.010 - 0.014"
Intake:
Cyl 1 0.009" 0.010"
Cyl 2 0.008" 0.009"
Cyl 3 0.008" 0.008"
Cyl 4 0.0065" 0.0065"

Exhaust:
Cyl 1 0.009" 0.011"
Cyl 2 0.012" 0.012"
Cyl 3 0.012" 0.010"
Cyl 4 0.011" 0.010"

The only one that is actually out of spec is cyl 1 exhaust at 0.009". Should I be adjusting the ones that are on the limit as well?

 

If I was you I’d just maybe see if you could rearrange some shims to bring the border line ones back more into spec without having to buy any shims but I wouldn’t be too concerned if not. In spec is in spec.

 

@vern650 is there a way to know which shim I should try to move? Take one that is at the top of the spec somewhere and try it there?

 

You’ll have to pull them out and measure them and compare them and see if the math works out, but a good place to start would be pull the ones on the loose side and compare them to the ones on the tight side. It may work out it may not.

 

I had no issues with the Schley tool for my 3.4L. In fact, it was super easy to use once you get the hang of it. Some valves require you to go at it from a different position but none was actually that hard. I also did not have to modify anything to get it to work.

Not sure why there is such differing opinions on this but I'm guessing either there are counterfeit ones out there or their QC is all over the place.