3rz Swap-No Spark, No Start

When I put the 2.4 motor back in my 03 it did the same thing… wtf, it was a running vehicle 3 weeks ago. I got igniter codes too. In my haste to break in the new motor I neglected to attach the alternator wiring. Once I did that it fired right up. I looked at the wiring diagram and one has nothing to do with the other… coincidence or ? Don’t know.

 

Update:

I finally got the new crank sensor. While I was waiting for it to show up I went through all the grounds again, everything looked good. The only thing I didn't think of and wasn't sure if it mattered was weather or not the igniter body needed to be grounded. I had it mounted on the big canister on the intake, right above the exhaust manifold, which is grounded being bolted to the head. But I decided to move it anyway, down to the inner fender where it would for sure be well grounded.

After I got the crank sensor installed and everything buttoned back up........the truck STARTED on the first crank and idled perfect! I could have cried!! lol Initially I only want to one thing at a time so I knew exactly what the no spark issue was but I couldn't not mess with some stuff while waiting for the crank sensor. But it had to either be the crank sensor or the igniter body itself not being grounded good enough.

Not surprisingly though the perfect idle didn't last. Keep in mind this motor is out of a wrecked truck that I bought like 4 years ago and never heard it run. After about a minute it started to have a small hicup/miss every few seconds, but no check engine light. I had a few things to address now that it started. Purge air out of the coolant, re-bleed power steering as it started cavitating right away, address an oil leak, and make sure it wasn't going to burn to the ground since the new exhaust and anti-seize was smoking pretty good as it heated up for the first time. That all took a few hours but the truck ran for a good half hour total and had probably 10 problem free starts.

Idle was good at times and not at times. But weather it was good or not if I give it any throttle at all it stumbles bad, never dies though. It eventually set of the check engine light but I still cant get the scanner to connect to the truck so I don't know what the code is. Currently it idles good but stumbles bad between 1,000 and 3,000 RPM, once it passes 3,000 it clears up.

Thanks for the help guys! I'm beyond excited to have the truck running, even if it isn't running good yet. If anyone has any idea's on what the new issue is I'd greatly appreciate it. I may start a new thread if need be.

 

Very helpful lmao.

 

Check the egr is functioning correctly

 

EGR is deleted. I expected a code from it. But could it cause the sputtering in that RPM range? Why would it clear up at and above 3000rpm?

Haven't been able to work on the truck since saturday. Next thing I will be trying to do is figure out why I can't get the scanner to connect to the truck, so I can read the codes.

 

It starts and idles well when both cold and hot? I’d almost try a new IAC valve. It would be nice to try another ecu

 

Edit: Yes, cold and hot.

It doesn't idle perfect, it has a small hiccup every 1-2 seconds. But as soon as you touch the throttle its stutters and stumbles bad till 3000rpm then it clears up with no hiccups or stumbling at all, (this is under no load though, didn't get to high in the rpm when I drove it down the driveway. Would barely get out of its own way stumbling so bad).

 

Might want to check valve clearances.

 

in the engine compartment fuse panel replace the fuse marked OBD. You should get communication back after that.