3rz engine rebuild cost

I'm looking to have my 3rz refreshed. I usually do alot of my own work but I'd rather pay a pro for this. My experience isn't up to the level where I know it will be oem reliable.

Is there anything that can typically be reused? And what did the rebuild cost? I just have low compression.

The machine shop won't need to pull or install. That part I can handle handle.

 

Hahaha my favorite topic to talk about... where to start. Sorry in advance if I ramble.




You're post is exactly where I was a year before I joined this community, so hopefully I can answer all your questions concisely enough.

I'm looking to have my 3rz refreshed.
What's your definition of refreshed?

I also do damn near all my own work and figured I could tackle a basic refresh.. My currently installed 3rz had 230k miles and low compression in cyl 3. Diagnosed a crack in the head and bought an aftermarket head from APRauto (I think) for about (roughly?) 580 to my door. Bought a complete felpro gasket rebuild kit for 2 or 3 hundred.
When I pulled the head the previous owner already did a head gasket but $*%&ing used an entire tube of permatex securing it to the block. All oil and coolant passages were plugged. Cyl 2 was scored to hell and the timing cover was egg shaped where the oil pump rides.

Took it to a machine shop that specialized in sooped up VW air cooled motors but would happily work on any 4cyl foreign engine. I had them; hot tank, magnaflux and bore the block 2mm (on my request), then paint it, turn the crank and install new oversized pistons(+bearings) and rings. replace and install the "new" timing cover (low mileage replacement from junkyard) plus actual new oil pump, install the aftermarket head(including checking and adjusting the chinesium timing and valve lash), hot tank intake plenums and bellhousing, replace the broken harmonic balancer pulley setup (that I broke with a chain strap attempting to break the crank bolt loose{which required me to buy special tools and sockets to break loose the crank bolt.. money I'm not counting}) plus resurface the flywheel and include new Aisin clutch and new throw out bearing. We reused the timing chain because, even being run low on oil, it was tighter than the crappy aftermarket one I bought. That's with a new chain tensioner. All that cost me around 2.5k.

Spent a few trips to autopart stores for various bits and bobs.. Then, due to my own failure, I spent about 100 bucks on multiple new OEM fuel injectors cups and finally, OEM orings, because the fel pro orings were juuuussssttt slightly too thick a-round and I kept breaking the cups before I figured out why.

Then I had my throttle body bored out and rebuilt by maxbore.com (can't recommend their service enough) for 200 something after shipping. That was to solve a high idle issue that developed after the new engine was running the way it should have.

Thhheeeennnn I spent 500 something for 8 fuel injectors because I "tried to save some money" on a set that turned out to be counterfeit denso injectors, and had to buy the slightly less than OEM equivalent Intermotor brand. That was to fix a miss I noticed after fixing the high idle.




I refuse to add up what I just listed... I've spent so much money rebuilding this truck. But for me, it's not only a learning experience about how much of my "own work" I can actually do, but also a good long term investment because completely rebuilding this truck is less expensive in the long run compared to buying something off the lot. Something that isn't exactly the kind of truck I want, which this first gen provides.



TL;DR your engine rebuild cost will be a special value all to yourself and totally dependent on your specific circumstances

 

lce rebuilds engines really good, also checkout Timmythetoolmans latest vid on utube he talks about a shoo where they get a engine from a toyota pro shop, or i guess just take it to any engine rebuilder. I would get it with lce

 

Oh yea. And I spent 300 something on a brand new OEM 01-04 mini tube style header to replace the cracked cast exhaust manifold that's found on the pre 00 3rz.

I've had three pre 00 motors and all of them were over 200k and all of them had cracked manifolds (cracked somewhere) before this motor, I just stick welded the cracks cause I was a cheap ass that enjoyed shitboxes.



Now I'm a "want to do it right, but doingitrightisexpensive" kinda guy that still enjoys shitboxes

 

Yikes that sounds like a pain. Sounds like what I'm trying to avoid by hiring a pro. I have a fresh head, my current engine runs great but it leaks like a harley and sometimes has a small puff of smoke under a big load.

It will be easier for me to drop off the spare engine, have it gone through and I can swap the engines in a weekend. (Once the snow is gone)

 

There's alot of good parts I'll transfer over, I ended up with a long tube header because I also kept cracking/welding manifolds.

I have a friend who can use my old engine so, it will have a home.

 

If if you have that option that is the best course of action in my book. I've heard alot of good things about buying longblocks from places like yotashop.com and LCE but personally, call me old fashioned, but I'd prefer to local shop and meet the ones who'll do the actual work.

 

I would consider myself a worst case scenario. For all the oil starvation and blocked cooling passages, I'm amazed at how well the engine ran and am happy to have spent the money I have to get the work done.

All of the accessories and auxiliary brackets/sensors I reused. Did replace all the vacuum lines and mounts while I was at it.

 

OP,

I've rebuilt BMW, Volvo Yamaha, Dodge and Opel engine, and I have to say that until it's torn down, you really won't know 100 percent what parts are reusable. Low compression could be any number of causes, from a relatively simple (and cheap) ring-job, to burned valves (expensive) to a combination of issues.

@Abeyancer is right on the money that it won't be cheap, even if you do some/much of the work yourself. What you will have in the end, is a solid engine without issues.

As for cost? Expect it to be close to the LCE long-block price. After all, they're refreshing a 3RZ just as you want to do. The main difference is that they are using mostly new parts.

Mark

 

Gotta agree till it is apart and inspected you just never know!

Unless you just figure every thing but the block and the bare head needs to be replaced.

 

If you are going to rebuild the engine yourself do not reuse the head bolts as they are torque to yield TTY. Hopefully you already knew that. As some have said before you will not know just what's reusable. Make sure that you thoroughly clean the intake from the throttle body all the way to the valves. Hopefully there will not be too much of a carbon buildup.

Its feasible to rebuild that engine under $500.00

 

higher mileage, 300k+, 4 cylinder motors usually require a new head so dont be surprised.

 

Thanks for all the replies, please keep them coming.

I do not plan on rebuilding this myself, and I have a good head that was recently decked, adjusted and checked for cracks. It's been on my current engine for about 30k

 

Is the place you're taking it to familiar with these motors at all?

The 2rz and 3rz have a counter balance shaft on the exhaust side of the motor to reduce engine vibrations. The rear bearing journal has been known to wear out and if that's the case you either need a new block or have them install a counter balance delete kit. I think LCE sells one. Theoretically you can get a smidge more ponies doing the delete kit (my butt dyno says it should be faster lol) and the vibration is really only noticeable idling at a red light.

However I didn't notice enough of a difference power-wise on my previous 3rz so my current one still has the counter balance shaft

 

Actually I know the 3RZ FE has counterbalance shafts on both sides of the engine. The intake side and the Exhaust side.

 

I didn't notice any difference either but I also don't go higher in the RPM range so it could be a bit up there to ever notice.

 

Yeah I would definitely do the balance shaft delete....they rob small amount power and torque on take offs.
I switched from a 3rz to 2rz block to get rid of them....
If anything the new without balance idles smoother than the old 3rz.......any day of the week....

and you'll have one less timing chain, gears,adjuster, and guides to go out.....