3rd gen can swap help needed

Guys it fuckin happened. I rolled my 3rd gen… time for the rebuild. First step is a new cab. I don’t know any of you really, has anyone ever gone through the process of swapping a cab and rewiring it and willing to help me. I can get the new cab mounted onto my frame a trailer the truck up to wherever the person is. I can only find cabs with bare metal no wiring left inside. So I’ll have swap over all my wiring into the new cab. Not sure how hard of a process that is but I’m willing to get it done and however long it takes. The truck still runs and drives straight! I did not have a roll cage in place so atleast that makes it easier to swap over the cab just 4 bolts and cut some wires and I can swap it with a skid loader. Once that’s done and wired up I can lock in the frame with the roll cage sitting at my house. Frames kinked in the rear but nothing a frame shop couldn’t handle, already talked to a few willing to take it on.

 

Apparently this truck is not a daily driver and driven pretty hard. Why not just use a hi-lift and BFH, get it back close and keep sending it?

 

Well no one could have seen a rollover coming

 

Plenty of people have used a hi-lift to get their cab back into shape after rolling. Pics don't look that bad now that you've added some more, so a hi-lift probably wouldn't do you any good. For how you use the truck, doing a cab swap sounds like dumb shit to me since you are just going to roll it again. But you do you, it's your truck.

 

King of the hammers ?

 

I kind of agree with @TenBeers also don't think he was trying to be a dick.

From the pics it does not look so bad. Many worse looking bodies out there.

Leave it fucked and do a roll cage. All that damage is just trail cred.

With all the work you do yourself I'm kind of surprised you want a new cab.

 

If you do decide that the cab change out is really the way you want to go, I'd highly recommend extracting your wiring harnesses without cutting them. Definitely more tedious, but far better for long term reliability.

 

Wire harnesses are prefabricated before installing them into the chassis at the factory. So you should be able to take the harness out without cutting anything.

I would start by taking everything out of your cab, labeling all the nuts and bolts as you go. When you get all the I interior trim out of the way, you'll be able to see how the harness is ran.

I would try to keep the harness attached to the dash, and remove both at the same time. There's a lot of wiring behind there and could be a pain to get back together.

Take a lot of pictures.

 

I can see why you don’t have friends to ask for help on this.

 

yea thinking about it more I guess it’s really just easier to wack at that caved in spot a bit and just throw the cage in, or just cut the whole roof off and reweld it back on. the cage sits super tight against these cabs. Clean cab shell was only 750$. I’ll just get that roof caved back out best I can and start on the cage. Cab swap really wouldn’t be that bad tho but definitely save me a fuck load of time to avoid it. @TenBeers my bad, was just soo fucking pissed that I rolled my shit, was able to keep it alive for about 2 years of hardcore ripping. It’s bound to happen when you’re going crazy. That’s why it’s going to be a race vehicle soon so I have reason to break it again haha.

 

Exactly what I’m thinkin haha. This is gold

 

Yea happened down Boone rd towards the start gate. Some weird s Saturn with big whoops through their. Never realized how much anti squat I created in the rear when changing ride height so once the shocks faded out I had no idea what the truck was doing. Redesigned my rear to be a 4 link with longer trailing arms and much less anti squat around 30-50% so the shocks can do all the work without have geometry clashes like before.

 

I can see why your balls haven’t dropped yet

 

Perhaps some of these shorts might be of interest in your endeavor to moderately correct some of your cab sheet metal.

Repair swelling ไล่บวมโดยใช้แท่งคาบ่อน #ตัวถังและสีรถยนต์ #เปิดการมองเห็น #myyearonyoutube

 

Those dudes get the job done it’s awesome to watch. I ended up getting a porta-power like @ClassyTacos recommended and I was able to push the cab back out enough I think to get the cage in their. I’ll find out soon enough.

Before/after porta-power photos below:



Time to cut the frame rails and replace it with some 2x6 boxed steel tubing and then back half the rear attached to the cab cage. Then I can burn in the 4 link, mount shocks/bump out

 

At the risk of incurring the fiery wrath of the OP, I’m gonna go ahead and point out that your engine bay currently has more protection than the area the driver occupies whilst shredding mad gnar and holding down the whoops for the 3rd gen crowd.

I understand that a roll cage doesn’t make the truck ride buttery smooth at 70 across the desert, but I’m of the opinion that it ought to be the first priority before you get out there to show everyone just how far your balls have dropped.

A truck built for high speed in the desert that lacks a roll cage reminds me of the guy riding his sport bike in flip flops and a tank top.

with that said, I sincerely hope a proper cage is the next thing on your agenda before you get back to holding it down for the 3rd gen crowd in the desert.


EDIT: From what I’ve gathered it looks like a cage is in the works. Bravo!

 

Appreciate your concern, but before writing a super lengthy story, read through the messages because I’ve mentioned multiple times that a cab cage is going in this time around.

 

I didn't read your OP. Can you sum up in 5 words or less what you want?