35s no lift

I was just looking around and I saw a guy put 35s on his Tacoma without a lift I didn’t know that was possible he showed that all he did was a body mount chop a viper cut and cutting his fender for more clearance. im just wonder is that even real like he shows that there is no rubbing either.
https://youtube.com/shorts/l1OIPkmvRF0?si=3Syu9KG_WOGVu_OZ

 

Now try and go over a speed bump while turning

 

You can go as big as your willing to cut for. If you clearance for a tire properly you should be able to go full bump lock to lock with no rub. I could take my coilovers out and ride around on my bumpstops with no rub.

 

Watch Tinkerers Adventure on youtube. Hes really good at explaining things such as fitting larger tires. I can fully cycle 35s on my 2020 with a body mount chop and 0 0ffset. Tires are BFG KO2s 315/70/17. I have an accutune UCA

 

Besides the bmc, and uca, did you tub the fenders and chop the fenders at all?

 

Bigger question, and not laid out to diminish anyone's personal builds.

What is the goal with running 35" tires (assuming 12.50 wide) with no lift?

What real world advantage would this provide over say skinny 33" tires with no lift, no spacers, no CMC, no fender trim, and no rub at full stuff?

I can only math out maybe 3/4" more ground clearance at the lowest point, with all the added work, with spacers to reduce but not eliminate rubbing just on flat ground.

 

Increased ground clearance, full front suspension travel, lower maintenance and less stress on cv's and ball joints, lower center of gravity. Those are my goals, anyway.

I also don't need to be lifted for the amount of offroading I do. I want to do the supporting mods for a future lift, I just want to mod my truck more "the right way" with the lessons I learned from doing it the "less correct way" with my old xj and 4runner.

 

Hell yeah. Keep that center of gravity subterranean nom sayn?

 

And are you are lifted ?

 

After watching that vid in the original post, I only see steering. I don't see any front wheel travel, let alone while turning.

If full use of front suspension while turning without rubbing is a goal with 35's, I would suggest finding someone in your area with 35's lifted, modded or not and see how the tire reacts full stuff, and full stuff while turning.

Also, have you considered regearing for those meats?

I regeared my manual '17 for 33's from 4:30 to 4:88 and absolutely feel that was the right choice. Can't imagine the lost power to the ground with 35's and not regeared, let alone if you have an auto trans.

 

@INSAYN regear is part of the plan. Will be adding marlin crawlers lca braces here in the spring, looking to tub the front fenders, most likely with the c4 fab kit. I'll be upgrading brakes to the 4runner's as well. Looking at going with a set of fj cruiser 17's, guys got a set locally. Saving for a regear. I live in hill country, so I'm weighing 5.29's vs 4.88's for a bit deeper overall drive ratio. Manifold spacer is ordered, and will likely get a tune now that OTT has their carb cert as I do have to pass an emissions inspection here.

From tinkers channel, I'll be doing quick disconnect links for my front sway bar and addong an aftermarker rear so I can maximize front end movement.

 

C4 fab makes a kit to tub?

 

I'm so glad someone said this

 

OP, what tire width are you looking to run in a 35"?

My understanding of even a 285/75r16 (12-12.5"ish wide). Needs either offset wheels or spacer to clear the UCA, and then CMC to clear scrub radius.

I would think you would need to run a skinny 35" to avoid these issues as well.

Am I missing something?

*Edit*
I went back and read a bit clearer.
Looks like you are addressing both of the above.

However, how much mount chop is needed? Maybe a complete mount relocation? I've seen some kits for that roaming around.