33s with 6inch lift, show off your truck

I’m from Hawaii as well. Lots of 6” lifts with American Forces or some kind of flashy wheels rolling around here. Nice to see a 6” lift built with FUNCTION in mind brah! @alwaysHI

 

From Hawaii? Sure... I don't see your "808" Sticker, Island chain sticker, your Natin2krazy sticker, or your tokunaga sticker. Hard to believe you...

Naa J/K. you from Hilo side? I think I seen you around. Looks very clean man. who doing your regear?

 

You just can’t see the green bottlez and gold chain in the pics.

 

I'll second that...

 

Full retard, never go full retard:

 

In all realness, I can’t hate. Your money, your truck. Do what makes you happy.

 

Thanks bro!

Hahaha! My runner had Tokunaga sticker, I only have “toyoda” with master yoda on this one
But yes, Hilo side.
Thanks bro, I went thru Steve at Jimmy’s Radiator. He’s the son and does a little more diverse work, great job he did may I add. Only took one day

i died reading this! Hahahaha

 

This is my coworkers truck..

 

Man I always recommend Steve. He is an awesome braddah. Good work and he is honest. He quoted me like 350 once for a job. When I went in, he said 275 cus he did It faster than the book said. Super good braddah.

I was going ask him to do mine when the time came. Now I know he can.

Hope you're on the right side of the lava flow. I'd love to see your truck sometime if you get time.

 

hahah

 

I Wanna see som of dem rollers with 6ench lif and 2ench body lif ya heard?

 

I would go 35's if it was me but 6 inch for sure

 

People are hating probably because the geometry in the front suspension is thrown way out and you’re going to be loading the balljoints more and risk binding. Most other problems, like drivetrain angles, can be worked around somewhat, but the inherent limitations of the Toyota IFS are exaggerated when you go above 3” of lift. Keep it lower and you can extend the droop, have better articulation, and still have proper strut travel and suspension geometry. Jack it up 6” and all that goes to shit. This is why people say a 6” lift is for mall crawling or people who don’t care about fucking up the off road capabilities. Approach angle is great and all, but if your articulation is shot then you aren’t going to efficiently move over obstacles. Period.

Edit: I’m an idiot and didn’t read/understand about this lift, so ignore me

 

How do you figure all the geometry is gone to shit? Please explain how anything above 3 inches equates to ball join bindage and poor strut travel and geometry.

 

What you put your tire over and what I put my tire over are completely different things. And I’m not talking about mall pavement.
Ever heard of lava? That molten shit that comes out of the earth? If you’ve never been on true lava trails (and not the type that you tourist drive on when you visit) then you would understand.

Guys with DB lifts get hassled, even guys with 3” lifts and STOCK UCA’s get hassled. There’s no win on TW.

Do good, get talked bad. Do bad, still get talked bad about. Moral = don’t give a fuck.

I second this

 

JoeRacer, what you said would be correct if it were not a drop bracket lift. Basically this type of lift uses a bracket that bolts onto the bottom of the front end that is 3.5 or more inches lower that the arms bolt to. They then use a longer spindle that connects to the upper control arm keeping the suspension geometry correct. Essentially it lowers the front suspension rather than just cranking the A arms down for more height. These kits give a more height under the belly where it actually matters off road as well as better approach and departure angles. There are trade offs for having the higher center of gravity but they are very capable and better in a lot of situations. This is why I don't get the hate, I've seen them perform well on the trail. They're no comparison to a SAS obviously but neither is my OME kit.

Edit: Hindsight, doing it again I'd go 4" Rough Country up front and Chevy's out back. I'd weld up the chopped crossmember like Diablo169 did for additional strength. Match that up with some 285/75R17 if the rims fit and call it a day. I spent too much money for not enough clearance although the road manners of my OME kit are great.

 

I applaud you sir

 

Totally agree. It's funny that you mentioned that lift combo, I'm using the 4 inch RC up front although I didn't have enough time to get to box it like Diablo169 did. That was a brilliant build and one of the most entertaining ones to read by far. I haven't gotten around to the 63s in the back yet but have my Archive Garage hangers sitting in the house waiting to be put to use. I did install the 63s on my '96 Tacoma in my avatar pic and they rode fantastic so it's a definite must do for me on my '16.
I think JoeRacer just reinforced the theory that I go by, people that don't have much experience with suspensions parrot what they hear the "cool guys" say. They hear that DB lifts are created by Satan to cruise the Church parking lot while the manly men drive their 2 inch lifted with 37s Tacomas on the actual path that Jesus traveled over 2000 years ago and the only time their truck ever touches a foot of pavement is when Whole Foods is running a sale on granola. My truck has a drop bracket lift and a 1" body lift *gasp* which is enough ammo to be the object of hate by 75% of the people on TW. I have front end geometry that is close to stock in every aspect except the driveshaft angle and caster. I needed the extra caster to fit the 35s without cutting too much out of the fenderwell. Now I have 35s with minimal fenderwell cutting and LESS CV angles and ball joint wear then a 3" lift, quite the opposite of what JoeRacer suggests.
AlwaysHI, we always gonna get the hate from people that think their way is the only way

 

sweet set up.

 

Hey, thanks for explaining why I’m wrong about this lift. I totally understand now. I’m okay admitting I didn’t fully understand how this lift worked, and that I have some more studying to do about this stuff. Thanks again for taking time to explain about it so I could learn some.