3.5 V6 ACIS plenum/manifold flap failure (2GR-FKS) SECOND UPDATE

Didn't previous iterations of ACIS use a vacuum switch valve(VSV) to control the door? Think the direct electric actuator has something to do with it?

 

Yeah, looking at catch can kits now, lol.

 

I just bumped a thread about a dual kit. I think the dual kit is 300-400 from radium (I think this is over kill but kill because the second can isn’t as useful but I’m waiting for that other thread to see) and then JLT, I think, does a single for much less and still quality. I’ll probably end up with the single as I don’t have room for the dual.


Edit. Scratch that. So far can’t find anyone that’ll ship a catch can to CA.

 

Yes they did use a VSV previously, at least on the V6 4.0L 1GR-FE.

I looked through the Toyota parts diagrams & can't find a separate flapper part for the 2nd gen/1GR-FE. I think (?) it's integrated completely into the unibody plastic intake manifold just like the 3rd gen. I wonder whether it's any more reliable than the 3rd gen iteration.

Apparently at least two 2nd gens have been damaged by flappers breaking off & debris going down into the engine -- but these were in trucks that were driven under racing conditions. (Possibly forced induction?)

 

Mother of God! What are the chances that the service department at the Stealership did not check for this loose bushing when they replaced my failed ACIS/intake plenum when I brought it in? Now I am wondering if I need to pop this plenum off myself and see if it's still bouncing around on the intake valves?

I've got over 6K on the engine now since they've replaced the Plenum. What are the chances that this bushing, if still in the intake tubes, is still there on one of the valves? Chewed up?

It's pointless to go back to that service department and ask the mechanic. He probably doesn't even remember the warranty repair details of my truck.

 

My ACIS shaft in the Plenum failed at only 19K on the motor...

 

Seriously...you should check. It's not hard. After pulling mine 3 times, I got it down to 20 minutes. Pull it and shine a light down each runner for the right bank (1,3,5).

I drove for 2 days with that inside the lower intake...it didn't make any odd noises or anything.

The only reason I even knew about that bushing was because I cut the old intake apart for shits and giggles. It turned into quite the learning experience.

I was always told by a few older guys that helped me build a few engines that you always want to see why a part failed, even if it means cutting it apart. Now I really understand why they said that.

 

That's crazy it failed that soon.

 

Wait a minute, you drove for two days with that in there!? Thats even more amazing. It doesnt look chewed up at all in the pictures - valve or bushing

Yes 2nd gen V6s were vacuum driven. And based on what Ive seen in Toyota literature, its more of a lever design that actuates the flapper (never seen it in person myself). Whereas 3rd gens are obviously direct drive rotation from the actuator.

 

Yes, two days....it actually is rounded off on the ends. After I cleaned all the oil off of it, it appeared to be "shot peened".... probably from bouncing around the steel valve. It's only aluminum or something very soft.

I towed a damn trailer with that damn thing in there....

 

Ahhh I thought it was rounded like that from factory. But that makes more sense.

Still good on ya for finding that!

 

Thanks...and that's why I immediately updated this thread....because other people need to know to check that if this happens to them.

 

There looks like a couple of days early next week that I can do this. Do I need to get another intake/plenum gasket or should I be able to reuse the current one, that they replaced during the last warranty work on this part (6K ago...)?

https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~gasket~air~surge~ta~17176-31130.html

Like I remarked earlier, I already have another 6K on this motor since they replaced the Plenum. In the grand scheme of things, driving it through the weekend should not matter at this point... if it's still in there.

This truck is the number 1 truck I've ever had, for the nights of sleeplessness I suffer over it. Two recalls (fuel pump - horror story in itself) (radar sensor), busted plenum ACIS door, loose spark plugs, burned out coils... all of my past Ford trucks are smiling from wherever they are now.

 

All gaskets are reusable.

Fastest way to remove the manifold.

Assuming vanity cover is already off, disconnect PCV hose on rear left side, vacuum hose off valve on left front side, pop out hoses from retainers and pop wiring retainers from the manifold.

Loosen boot clamp on throttle body, (8mm) and remove vent tube off intake tube.

Undo air cleaner lid latches and unplug MAF sensor, then pop wiring clips off intake tube and air cleaner lid.

Remove the air cleaner lid and the entire intake tube from throttle body and set aside.

On the back, top of the manifold, middle bolt (10 mm) remove bracket for coolant hoses. On the backside of the manifold, under the coolant hoses, unplug the ACIS actuator.

On the front (1) and left side (2) of the the manifold, remove the bolts that hold the manifold to the support brackets (12mm).

Take all 4 bolts out of the throttle body (10mm) and lay throttle body off to the side, you do not need to disconnect the coolant hoses off the throttle body.

Then remove the two nuts (12 mm), and 4 bolts (12 mm) from the intake.
Lift carefully, but firmly and it will lift off. Do not lay the manifold on the ground with the gaskets on the ground.

Reverse the process to install. The manifold bolts call for a very small torque spec, but you just need to snug them up by hand firmly. I did everything with a 1/4" ratchet set. Tighten down the intake starting in the center and working outwards in both directions.

 

Thank you JohnnyTRD06, and very helpful with your details in the above post.

 

You're welcome!

I did it 3 times in less than 3 days...I kinda figured out all the quick ways of removing it, lol. So I have no issue sharing that with others to help them out.

 

I have the JLT single in my rough truck. Works flawlessly. As for why CA won't allow it (even though technically it helps keep the emissions cleaner....) Meh. Silliness.

 

Had a P0305 code 2 months back, but not had the same described issues. My Taco sounds like a diesel.
Tldr: driving through -40c to -28c temps over 8 days, loud bang happened, CEL came on, turned off truck, CEL was gone. Did the same thing with plugs, coils, swapped them around but it still sounds rought but otherwise the engine is fine.
Brought it to stealership and had a new Tech take a look. Kid doesn't know what the engine is suppose to sound like and tells me it's normal.

 

The preventative maintenance answer is simple. Buy the Magnusson Supercharger.

I wasn’t considering one but now seriously am as I get closer to warranty expiration.

 

This has got me thinking - I wonder if you can monitor the ACIS commanded status from a OBDII reader? What the ECM is telling the actuator to do.

Not seeing anything on Google