3.4 superchargers, injectors, and EGRs. Lots of conflicting info, could I get some clarification?

I've searched extensively for an answer on this, and there's a LOT of conflicting information out there. I'm hoping someone here can shed some light on this, preferably with official documents of some kind of they exist (doubtful).

I was able to source a 1st gen 3.4 SC for my 1997 Tacoma. I know that the 7th injector is actually legal per CARB EO d-425-13, but my 1997 being a 1997 means I have the dreaded EGR valve. Now, that EO states that an EGR adapter of sorts is included in the approved supercharger kit, but it mentions nothing explicitly about the EGR for the 7th injector which would require an EGR delete. The exact wording is "same components as the Standard Kit with the
addition of an extra injector". I do have a carb sticker that references this EO, but my question is if anyone here knows whether or not the the EGR delete is legal to install the 7th injector? I've read that it's the best way to get rid of low rpm engine ping, and that you still have to be careful with the 6 injector + ECU kit.


On a side note: if anyone here can recommend a good Toyota mechanic in the Monterey area, I would appreciate it.

 

@1997tacomav6 might be able to answer your question.

Have you posted on any of the supercharger threads in the first gen sub forum?

 

You can’t run the 7th injector with the EGR setup that I know of.
If your on the stock pulley and your injectors have been cleaned and the fuel pump is a larger flow rate you should be ok.
IF you have the original FMU that come with the trd supercharger that would be best to use it.
The TRD FMU will give you a 4:1 ratio for fuel pressure and help more to get rid of ping.
If you do the free FMU ITS A 1:1 ratio and needs to me connected off the boost side of the supercharger
Not all 97 have the EGR, Just the ones made in California.
If you delete the EGR you will get an engine light.
You can put a resistor to counter that light.
But the ECU is programmed to runs differently with the EGR.

The EGR when in use will actually start your intake temperature at 150 degrees because of the exhaust going into the supercharger regardless of outside temperatures. If it’s deleted or closed off your intake temperatures start off lower.

I’m running a haltech and deleted the EGR from working ( plugged off the vacuum line so it’s in the closed position) but is still installed and don’t need a 7th injector

 

Thanks for the replies.

Yeah, I get that 7th injector + EGR doesn't work. I was just curious about the legality of doing an EGR delete in CA so I could install the 7th injector, but my hopes aren't high.
Are you also saying that I should be ok to run without any injector upgrades if the fuel pump flows higher?

I don't have the TRD fmu, unfortunately. Is it worth sourcing one over the free fmu mod (this is the first I'm hearing about either of these, it seems like there's always more to learn when going down the supercharger rabbit hole).

Isn't a lower temperature better for the supercharger anyways? Just another reason to do the delete if I can!

Unfortunately, California just banned any ECU tuning. There's a legally grey area for ECU piggybacks, but if they're seen or detected on an OBDII scan, you might fail smog. This makes me hesitant to get the 6 injector upgrade kit as well.

 

Check these guys out also. www.urdusa.com

 

That's where I was planning on getting the injector kit from, actually. They recommend the 6 injector kit for CA residents since their 7th injector kit hasn't been CARB approved, but with the new ECU law, their 6 injector upgrade is no longer street legal either.

 

The path you decide to go depends on if you are ok with going over the speed limit or staying under the speed limit as an example.

Some of the supercharger mods are not technically legal anymore in a lot of states and California is the worst.
Technically you can NOT remove the EGR or run the 7th injector, or run methanol or stand-alone.
But You can remove the EGR and install the 7th injector and when it comes time to do your state testing you can put it back to stock if your ok with that like going over the speed limit.
You can’t run a lot of these mods when doing a smog test regardless.

It also depends if you are going to run just the stock pulley,
If you want more power you have to do more work,
With the stock pulley there’s a 50/50 chance you won’t have issues.
If you go to a smaller pulley you will need to do more,
The supercharger is a rabbit hole and stops depending how far down you want to go.
The more power you want the more money it will cost and more things have to be done.

So ask yourself what are your end goals for power,
You want 200hp some rear wheel or 300hp rear wheel?
If you more then you turbo it.

The stock ECU you will NEVER get the potential out of the engine and supercharger and that’s the haltech road that goes deeper into the rabbit hole.

 

I'm not trying to max out hp, I just want to eliminate timing issues and make sure the supercharger doesn't destroy my engine. If there's a CA legal way to do that, then that's what I want to do. Otherwise, I'll go with whatever the most legal option is.

Side note I'm planning on getting the valve body mod done as well so that my transmission won't get obliterated either.

 

To do it correctly start off with a new fuel pump higher flow and have fuel injectors cleaned by motor west in California for 125 and new fuel filter

 

Thanks for the help, I'll give them a call