2nd gen manual transmission fix

Please pm code! Just replaced entire clutch with oem aisin and chirp was back in a week!

 

I can get whatever measurements you need. I have a spare R155 from when i replaced mine

Could you please provide a little more detail on the #s we need? I can get them tomorrow afternoon, out of town at the moment

Im guessing the diameter of the quill that the TOB rides on and maybe the length from the front of the input shaft to the edge of the bell housing?

 

Heres one ive got on my phone, can get a better one tomorrow though

 

Sounds great man, just keep me posted and we will proceed

 

From what I can see the R154 and R155 use slightly different pivot fork setups. The R154 kit from Clutch Masters' uses a simple metal L bracket to fix the hydraulic bearing housing to the bellhousing. But yeah if you can get Clutch Masters some simple measurements they should be able to make it happen with out too much hassle hopefully.

I think the main measurements you'll need are the input shaft quill or snout diameter and probably the stack height of the clutch. I'd recomened checking out the hydro bearing install instructions to get an idea of some of the measurements needed. http://www.clutchmasters.com/press-release/hydro-bearing-install/

Keep in mind with the RA60/61 kit though, you won't need to take those measurements since the kit was designed specifically for the heights found in an OEM or similar aftermarket clutch setup.

 

oh cool, so you dont have to worry about shims or anything?

 

Correct. The shims are really for applications where you are adapting one of the hydraulic release bearings Clutch Masters offers and putting it into an application they don't have a developed kit for.

The big thing to watch out for though is adjusting the clutch pedal release point and just making sure you're not overthrowing the release bearing. This would be super hard to do in the RA60 application I think and I'm honestly not sure there is enough throw adjustment in the master cylinder to make that happen. I just adjusted my master cylinder to the point where the clutch releases about mid throw in the clutch pedal travel. That info will all be in the instructions though so it should all be super straight forward.

 

sweetness. just waiting for mine to ship. probably will install columbus day weekend since i get 4 days off that weekend

 

Awesome! I know they are getting really close to having everything wrapped up, they said by end of next week everything should be shipping out. A lot of people have actually joined in on the group buy in the last week so there's actually quite a few people getting setup with these kits! Takes a little bit of time to machine all the parts to the kit but Clutch Masters said they are full steam ahead with everything!

Also just to reiterate for anyone on the fence, this group buy is going to wrap up on Monday so get your orders in over the weekend! Clutch Masters agreed to Monday just in case anyone had an issue placing an order over the website or wanted to call in with any questions. Also if you've placed an order and haven't sent me a PM with your info for the oil cap you'd like definitely do that! Here's who I have so far from Tacoma World, if your name isn't on the list and you ordered a kit you probably haven't sent me a PM!

wreathes - Red, TRD Logo
jhaykane - Black, TRD Logo
livpool14 - Black, TRD Logo
garciav - Clear Anodize, TRD Logo
TodayWasTHeDaY - Bronze, Headlight Fluid
rheath08 - Black, TRD Logo
Bluebaron7 - Blue, TRD Logo
Canadian_Shooter - Red, TRD Logo
6 gearT444E - Clear Anodize, TRD Logo
StumpyJoe - Blue, TRD Logo
Bruciep07 - Black, Standard Oil Fill logo

 

This one should be X2, we ordered ours together.

 

Yep I got you and 6 gearT444E noted for two of the same!

 

Ordered

Kevin asked me a few questions and then told me that I want the: FX400: 16078-HDCL with the 8 puck Lined ceramic sprung disc and the fancy T/O bearing of course.




Tacomaworld strikes my wallet once again!

 

Unbelievable! TW Strikes Again!

I'm on my 2nd clutch now, and I've been listening to my TO make such a racket I'm expecting the pressure plate to explode any day now like my first one did. I've been running an OEM EXEDY replacement for the last ~100k and it's time. That said I've been so interested in concentric bearing/slave cylinders and have watched every you-tube video on the subject since seeing the URD replacement a few years ago. I kept saying to myself "why did Gadget eliminate the product, it seems so simple???". These have a reputation for better feel, more accurate application and the ability to support stiffer clutches.

I've been considering fabricating my own solution, having taken measurements now from several OEM (Ford Mustang after 2005, Camaro 2007) and after market (Tilton,RAM, Quarter Master) and others. Many of them seem to fit the diameter of our input shaft, but they all would need a bracket and proper spacing. The other concern was fluid volume from our master cylinder. I've been hoping to put it together for less than $300, but then I stumble upon a few videos from ClutchMasters featuring Toyotas.

Not seeing the Tacoma I was preparing to email them but decided to check here. LMAO There really is no original thought!

Send me to the group buy, I'm ready, willing and able!

 

Glad I stumbled across this thread! How much is installation of this thing costing at a shop? I don't have a way to lift my truck and drop the trans.

 

It is, but this one is a billet piece that should last the life of the truck. A replacement seal and o-ring package is available for a cheap overhaul.

 

Prices are all over the planet, I'd find a reputable shop and start calling. Expect at least 3 hours of labor, as many as 6 depending on the shop's capabilities. Things to look out for during the swap is the exhaust comes down (new doughnut ring seals), flywheel resurface (or replacement) and while you are at it new lube for the transmission and transfer case.

For those who do this on your own, be sure to mark your O2 sensor wires to make sure the left is connected to left and right is connected to right. Sounds obvious, but once the transmission is down there is no way to tell the difference until the engine light is on. (ask me how I know)

 

Nice, I think you'll like the FX400. Have ran that clutch in a few cars in the past and it always worked great and the pedal pressure for such a high clamping force still felt like an OEM pedal feel. Add the hydro release bearing to it and it will be a very nice driving setup!

Group buy info sent! Yeah I was in your same boat. I wasn't satisfied with putting in the stock setup and after doing all the research I did I was honestly a little bit scared to do so with the amount of failures that had been reported by people. I too was curious why URD discontinued their internal hydro setup. It certainly wasn't ideal that you had to cut the quill down to fit the kit. No going back from that if you wanted to go back to an OEM setup. Which is nice with the Clutch Masters kit, easily revert back to the factory setup if you ever needed to for some reason.

The install is very straight forward as mentioned by @Dragons Taco but prices will range. Any capable transmission shop should be able to have the transmission in and out in about 3 hours with the kit installed. If you're doing it yourself in your garage expect a good long afternoon to complete the whole install depending on what you plan to do. I replaced my rear main while I was in there as well since my rig has 175k miles I figured it was just good preventative maintenance at that point. My rig was down for a couple of days since I didn't plan on doing the rear main until I had the trans out and had to wait on my local dealership to get the seal in.

 

Hey Derek!

I goy in on this too.

 

I'm happy to hear you say that. I've been a bit concerned that I may have gone too aggressive.

When talking with Kevin @ CM; I filled him in on the sorts of hp/tq numbers that we're looking at. He then asked if I plan to tow with the truck. When I told him that I did, He went right to the FX400 and we began to discuss which disk.

My wife drives the truck on occasion. I don't want a setup that she's not going to be able to drive smoothly. Nor do I want to have to be super careful with every shift. Stop and go traffic, although rare for me, happens.

 

From what I've been reading full face sprung clutches generally have decent manners. Non full face and/or unsprung (puck style) and/or lightweight freewheels (especially aluminum) are where things start to get more difficult.