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2nd Gen. Door Panel Removal (manual windows) + Speaker Upgrade

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by ready2dodamage, Jul 17, 2012.

  1. Jul 17, 2012 at 9:18 AM
    #1
    ready2dodamage

    ready2dodamage [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jul 12, 2012
    Member:
    #82466
    Messages:
    84
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Shawn
    Nashville, TN
    Vehicle:
    2006 Reg Cab 4x4 - 4 Banger
    Hey all. I recently purchased a 2006 Tacoma and I'm new to the forum. This site has been super helpful for performing a few basic mods and product reviews. So firstly, huge thanks, this is a great resource.

    I was a bit dissatisfied by the sound generated by the stock audio system in my Tacoma and after some surfing, I stumbled upon these fantastic write-ups. I decided upgrading seemed simple and worthwhile.

    Stereo installation:
    http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/audio-video/571-stereo-upgrade-basic-how-2nd-gen.html

    Speaker installation:
    http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/audio-video/3198-diy-basic-speaker-upgrade-2nd-gen-access-cab.html

    System
    I wasn't looking for an amazing system and there are probably better options out there that I missed or overlooked, however, my criteria was a double-din setup that: would last, produce substantially better sound than the stock setup, was iPhone compatible and had Blutooth. I set an all-inclusive budget of $450.00 and after some googleing, I found tons of solid feedback about the Clarion CX501 head-unit and the Image Dynamics CTX65CS. I used the stereo installation DIY for the head-unit installation. Super-duper easy.

    I went ahead and purchased the head-unit from Crutchfield and the component speaker kit from Taco-Tunes. Again, I know there were/are better prices to be had out there, however, I placed a value on completeness of package and didn't mind dropping a few extra bucks with the hope it would save me some running around/arms akimbo standing/pacing angrily in my backyard.

    Disclaimer/Purpose
    I've never installed a car audio system before. My purpose for writing is to document removing 2nd. gen tacoma door panels with manual windows and my solution for wiring a component system using the factory wiring and mounting crossovers in the doors. Maybe, hopefully, someone with exponentially more experience than me might feel compelled to chime in and drastically improve my installation :)

    Install
    I chose to splice/crimp instead of soldering. I was primarily inspired by the fact I had recently invested in this nice wire stripper/crimper for doing some network cabling in my house. A quick, $3.00 trip to the hardware store for some splice connectors and I was in business.

    [​IMG]


    Door Panel w/ Manual Windows Removal
    I would highly recommend reading the speakers installation DIY and watching the video below. They are both more extensive than this write-up.

    http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/audio-video/3198-diy-basic-speaker-upgrade-2nd-gen-access-cab.html

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h9pHl9Co_38

    1) Remove the window handle. I tried, valiantly, to photo document and failed. For general concept, here is the service manual documenting door panel disassembly: I wrapped a t-shirt around the handle, pulled outward and worked the metal clip up-and-out using the hook of a metal coat-hanger. Below, I posted a few photos of the handle; this might provide a better idea of what you're dealing with during removal and reassembly

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    2) Remove the plastic cover above the door panel and behind the side view mirror, pops off easily with light finger pressure. See this DIY for photos: http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/au...mplete-audio-install-tutorial.html#post208382

    3) There is a plastic plug (not shown in photo) located on the upper portion of the door panel closest to the door hinge. Insert a small screwdriver into the middle of the plug to pop it free. See this DIY for photos: http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/au...mplete-audio-install-tutorial.html#post208382

    4) Remove the cover on the interior door handle. Insert and slowly turn a large flat-head screwdriver in the notch. The cover will pop free. Slowly work around the cover to remove it.

    [​IMG]

    5) Using a large Phillips head screwdriver, remove the three screws securing the door panel. The three screws are located: (1) next to door lock switch, (2) (3) on the interior door handle. I'm sorry the photo is a bit out of order with this write-up, it was taken after the installation. I highlighted the areas that need to be removed for the panel to come off.

    [​IMG]

    6) Finally, remove the entire door panel. I began by lightly prying the panel away from the door on the lower edge of the panel, closest to the door hinge. Once all the plastic retainer pins have been pulled free of the door, slightly tilt the panel and lift, up-and-out.

    Speaker Installation
    Don’t forget to disconnect your battery!

    Removing the factory speakers and mounting the aftermarkets was a cinch. Again, I simply followed this DIY: http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/audio-video/3198-diy-basic-speaker-upgrade-2nd-gen-access-cab.html

    Wiring
    Here’s where I got a bit confused, however, I settled on the following solution. For ease of connecting wires, I temporarily stuck the crossover to the door using industrial strength velcro.

    First, I cut the old line running to the lower door speaker and spliced the cut-end to the line coming from the head-unit (1).

    Second, I wired the adapter from ********* to the inputs on the crossover and connected the plastic plugs (3).

    Next, I extended the length of the tweeter wire using some speaker wire that came in the kit (2).

    Finally, I electrical taped all my connections; zip tied all the lines together (4) and connected the wires to the crossover.

    [​IMG]

    I decided to stick the crossover to the top of the foam block in the door using some industrial strength Velcro. Due to wire length, the crossover slightly overhangs the foam block, however, once stuck down it was very sturdy and difficult to move. It probably won’t survive a nuclear blast, however, that sucker isn’t going anywhere soon.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Be sure to reconnect the battery and test the system to make sure everything works BEFORE reassembling the door panel!

    If it's not midnight by this point, crank up the volume and enjoy those new speakers :bananadance:
     
  2. Feb 28, 2014 at 9:51 PM
    #2
    trktwo

    trktwo Nagger

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2012
    Member:
    #73282
    Messages:
    288
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    Male
    First Name:
    tommy
    biloxi
    Vehicle:
    2015 MGM DCLB TRD Sport 4x4
    thankyou, nice write up
     
  3. May 19, 2016 at 8:27 PM
    #3
    Wren

    Wren Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 28, 2008
    Member:
    #9537
    Messages:
    589
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Josh
    Williamsburg, Ky
    Vehicle:
    11 White Reg. Cab 4x4
    Thank you for writing this. I could not find anything showing the same panel except for this and helped a ton for me trying to replace my passenger side mirror.
     
  4. May 23, 2016 at 7:08 PM
    #4
    ready2dodamage

    ready2dodamage [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jul 12, 2012
    Member:
    #82466
    Messages:
    84
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Shawn
    Nashville, TN
    Vehicle:
    2006 Reg Cab 4x4 - 4 Banger
    Glad it helped!
     
  5. Dec 13, 2019 at 11:42 PM
    #5
    traviskx

    traviskx Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Aug 22, 2019
    Member:
    #303007
    Messages:
    74
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Travis
    Apple Valley , CA
    Vehicle:
    2008 Toyota Tacoma Pre-Runner 2WD 5SPD
    n/a
    Thank you, helped with my door panel removal in order to get it placed correctly. It had a pretty big gap in the door panel / window. now its pretty close to flush, as close as i can get.. :/
     

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