2nd Gen buyer's guide

I did look through the stickies and found a few threads like this via search but they dead ended. If there is a 2nd gen buyer's guide that got stickied I missed it. If not, perhaps there's hope!

I don't want to manual or 4x4 swap my 1st gen Prerunner. Just not gonna do it. I might sell it to my work and still be able to be the only driver. That would free up space at home for a different Toyota. I'm not ready to part with the 1st gen and never drive it again

What I'd like to find: A well maintained 2nd gen 4.0 with 4x4 and a manual transmission. Ideally unmolested with mods, or at least molested appropriately and not with crap parts.

I know about certain things to be mindful of, like 2012 and the introduction of the secondary air pump. Most of my Toyota familiarity is around my 1st gen. Timing belt intervals, lower ball joints, etc. What are things to look for or verify have been kept up with on a 2nd gen? Talking outside of normal fluid changes and the like.

Thanks!!

 

For the most part they are just as solid as the 1st gens but there are some things to look out for.

No timing belt on a 4.0L it is a chain engine, with proper maintenance it can go well over 200k with no major issues.

05 and early 06 4.0L models had a slightly higher head gasket failure rate, later models had an updated gasket which fixed the issue.

Some 4.0L's had would develop an oil leak on the timing cover behind the power steering pump, not a super big deal but quite a bit of labor involved in resealing the timing cover.

6 spd manual transmissions have some issues with the throwout bearing chirping due to the design of the transmission input quill and it not using a pilot bearing, there are some aftermarket solutions that are fairly effective at fixing the issue.

The 4wd system (as with all electronic 4wd systems) needs to be engaged regularly to keep it functioning and also the vent hoses on the actuators need to be inspected regularly for cracks or being disconnected to prevent dirt and moisture from entering them.

Inspect the frame for rust.

If you find a TRD make sure it's a true TRD and not just stickers.

You already noted the 12's having more issues with the secondary air injection system, the 13 and up models had programming to correct the issues with the valves by running the pump a few seconds at shutdown to purge moisture from the lines. The later models still have a foam filter that tends to deteriorate and can cause issues so it would be a good idea to inspect it, some people (including myself) put a Uni crankcase breather filter on the pump and discard the foam one.

Mice like to live under the intake manifold and chew on the knock sensor wires which are a royal pain to get at so keep an eye out for evidence of critters.

If you wana compare features between year models links to brochures 01-18 can be found in the thread below.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/tacoma-ebrochures-2001-to-2017.486957/

That's about all I can think of off the top of my head, plenty knowledgeable people here should any issues arise.

 

Thanks for putting that list together. I remember seeing most of those on TW at some point or another in reading other posts.

Freakin rodents are one of the reasons I stopped looking at new 4Runners. It can happen to any vehicle but it sure would suck if it happened to a brand new one. Not to mention pandemic pricing has new 4Runners priced absurdly.

Time to check out that brochure link. Thanks again for the info! I’m going to start scanning the 2nd gen BST more often.

 

- Check the cabin air filter for rodent damage. The fresh air intake is wide open under the plastic cover out front and they can stroll right in. Takes 5 minutes.
- Confirm you can lower the spare tire
- Confirm all of the keys and remotes work. Big $$$ to replace.
- Try the horn
- Check under the carpeting for any signs of current or past water entry or damage if any. (Search: "Cabin Filter air intake water leaks" here)

- As mentioned previous: Follow the specific, correct proceedure(s) and try out all functions of the 4WD system: I'd add: both moving if you can and stationary. Repeat a few times. If it hasn't been exercised in a while it may make some loud clunking noises, be slow to engage, etc. Note: If you're not in "N" when you try and engage 4L, it will rapidly flash the light, make a big fuss, beep at you and won't engage, and won't stop until you do: (Normal).
- Have fun!!

 

Avoid one thats lived in the rust belt that's out of the extend frame warranty.

 

Adding: When/If you do purchase a 2nd Gen Tacoma: When you get it home, open the front doors, gently pull back the black rubber fender cavity seal strips in front of the doors (don't pull them out/remove them) on both sides and clean out all of the debris that is behind them. (leaves, pine needles, maple tree seeds/spinners, acorns, those tiny evergreen cones: name it. The bottom few inches with be black muck material. Pick a day when it hasn't been raining for a while. Don't be surprised if its filled all the way to the top. Flush the last of it out with a gentle water rinse. All the stuff makes it in there from the plastic cowl under the windshield, and through the openings behind the hood hinges.

 

Also, check the engine oil and coolant.

 

Does anyone know what's the build for the second gen?

So what I mean is I'm super interested in a 2nd gen single, cab, manual 4x4. Just wanna know what's the best trim and year for it.

I have a 1st gen but I realized it's a super nice truck for the misses and dog but would love to have a truck just for me to go to work with lol.

 

Some of the early models 2005-2006 4 cyl trucks had rear differential problems.
The problem usually showed up quick, so you likely won’t have to worry about it.

The later year trucks got an updated coolant bypass pipe.
@Jimmyh might know the exact year it started?

Honestly, just about all the 2.7 trucks are good.