2023 JBL Audio Upgrade

Hello TW,

2023 TRD Sport Advanced Technology Package

I have the misfortune of both having the JBL system and wanting to upgrade it. My goals for this upgrade are to replace door speakers, amp them, add some subs with their own amp and keep the head unit if possible. I will be more than willing to change the head unit out if necessary. Warranty is already voided so I'm not worried about that.

1) Anything maestro makes seems to be out of the question per this post. This leaves out the DSR1 solution as well as maestro rr for changing out the head unit. The CRUX SWRTY-61p seems to do everything I'd want out of a interface module if I had to change the head unit but who knows if that's compatible with the 2023s if the maestro isn't.

2) The PacAmp Pro would be a good solution but their website only lists compatibility up to the 2021 year model. At the same time Crutchfield website say It's compatible with my truck and that the necessary wiring harness is as well. I'm not sure how to truly verify this.

3) Full gut of the head unit and amp. This option seems to make the most sense but I'm not really sure how to go about it. Can I just use the speaker wiring that goes to the stock JBL amp and run them to my new door speaker amp? Wire in my sub and its amp then run the RCAs of both to the head unit and that would be it? Would I keep all the functionality of the stock head unit (360 view camera, steering wheel buttons) if I ripped out the stock system and put in a Pioneer 7600NEX?

I hope I'm not missing some really obvious solution. I have abused the search bar and have come up with what's above.

No real budget but I do want to keep the stock door wiring.

Any input on what the best way to go about this would be greatly appreciated.

Thank You!

 

The wiring will be in the back with the amp for the speakers . So yes you can use them . Stinger makes a product I think called speed wire that has all the speaker wires and the amp turn on in one jacket . So once you change the head unit you can run the speed wire to the back where the JBL amp is . There is a company called auto harness warehouse that may have plug so you don’t have to cut any wires by the jbl amp . I did a full gut with a Pioneer unit .
New speakers
Sub
4 channel amp
Sub / Mono amp
Nothing crazy about 600 ish watts total
And it sounds amazing , really a game changer

 

if you're going to be changing the speakers and amplifying them, you really should be running new wire. it's the same as if you entirely blueprinted a brand new motor capable of 600 horsepower, but then insist on running a single barrel low-flow carburetor off a 4 cylinder motor.

considering that no one currently makes a compatible take-over solution at the moment for 2023, it really only leaves you with a few options.

1. replace only the speakers, hope for the best. still add a sub, using the oem sub amp output as a high level input to the new sub setup.
2. hope/wait for someone to come up with a solution to replacing the oem amp to add power
3. gut the entire jbl system, and build an aftermarket system starting from scratch. most aftermarket radio's support steering wheel controls(the 2023 issue might arise here, all steering wheel controls require an adapter, this needs research as to which adapters support 2023), but the 360 degree camera is going to be the major question mark here-- it will be head unit dependent if any support it.

personally, i always take option 3. but then, i'm also only here because the tacoma is one of the last available trucks i'm able to change the head unit out on, which is my first rule in vehicles.

 

Soundman... I chose the Infinity Reference series speakers for the doors. They're 3-ohm that supposedly run 4-ohm once the thin stock wires are connected in. Electrically, that makes perfect sense- to sense and drive an actual 4-ohm load from the amp... so I'm curious to see how it works out for me once everything is installed. I bought the JL Audio JD400 which is stated to run 75W RMS at 4-ohms. Like you, i prefer to do EVERYTHING from start to finish. Tie my own flies, load my own bullets... just OWN the process, right?? That's why I went the route of the Fosgate DSR1- to have control of all the audio that can be controlled. Hopefully Crutchfield heard me and picked out what I needed. I'm an analog guy and have had no problem building systems in the past- but this is an old guy system I just have to enjoy a bit on long rides, not piss off the neighbors and worse- the Wife. I also want to deploy the thing without removing every piece of trim, carpet, and upholstery mostly because I don't have the time, but also because the Taco has a B2B warranty, and I need to have zero eyeballs on an installation in case some other electronic gizmo gets squirrely. All this to say, there are speakers like Infinity that at least attempt to allow the use of the smaller guage stock wiring. I do have my doubts it will efficiently (w/o distortion, for example,) support 75W. I'm far more likely to not exceed 50-55W in the short term, so I'm hoping this will do the trick for what I personally need to accomplish.

 

i'm not really interested in owning the process, i just want it done RIGHT, and done ONCE. i'd rather tear the entire interior apart to do it all correctly the first time around. i've tried the shortcuts in the past, and nothing is more irritating than going back and re-doing what was already done because the shortcut doesn't work.

 

I used a JL Audio Fix86 when I knew it was time to get rid of the JBL system but I wanted to keep the factory head unit because I like things looking stock. It's been great. It removes all factory the equalization and time delays. It has front/rear/sub outputs and my favorite feature that I didn't know I was getting - an EQ. I use an external amp to run a set of front component speakers and my own sub. While not scientific, I used whitenoise and a sound analyzer on my phone to flatten out the response and it sounds great.

 

im. in the same boat as Wiseone. DO I keep the factory HU and change it all or do I swap out HU. Kenwood retains most of her features but I think it is minimal, you probably lose SOS (if you use it you still have to modify). PAC audio makes the T-harness and accessory to mate to amplifiers and has the wire to mute the system to retain the SOS feature, not. sure if you. have to still hide a speaker or the the new PAC AP4-TY13 (R.2) has the mute built in, but not sure if you still have to retain the factory amp or not (sill trying to clarify that).

 

if you get a device like the jl fix, or pac amp pro, you should not need to keep the factory amp.

the way i understand it, the factory amp is a 'dumb' amp, in that it takes signals from the factory radio, but doesn't send any information back to the radio. the radio sends a proprietary digital signal to the amp that the amp then decodes and splits up between the separate speaker outputs.

 

Soundman, from what I understand as well is for the 2023 model. There isnt a integration module like the PAC available as of yet. That is what my installer says (could be upsale to aftermarket radio). Also says that the 2023 is a transition to the 2024 wiring (who knows). I searched PAC and nothing available for 2023. Idatlimaestro stated they dont have a module to add amp other than the RR to replace radio.

 

i thought i read of one person here who installed it anyways in their '23, and it all worked according to 2022 specs. it's odd of toyota to alter wiring/controls beyond model year changes.

 

I haven't read anything on that as of yet, I have contacted PAC AUDIO and they say it does notwork and hasn't ben tested. So, that is where I am at, do I have my installer see if it works, and swap HU if it doesn't. Maybe PAC AUDIO is telling the end user it doesn't work? I would like to keep the factory HU and swap out the HU as the last option.

 

Hello all,
So I was back and forth with PAC and Crutchfield. They are both indicating that the AmpPro AP4-TY13 will work with the stock 2022 head unit (even though not listed) that has the 28 pin connector (Toyota uses 3 different head units I guess). This allows you to install aftermarket amps to power the door speakers (upgraded) and add a sub and amp. You do however need to keep the factory JBL amp in the car as it feeds data to the head unit. I still have my speakers, amps and sub from my 2009 that I will be installing along with the AmpPro AP4-TY13 in my 2022 Limited. I'm hoping that it all works like I have been told. I absolutely HATE the JBL system!

 

Yes there is an installer on YT MARKLAND DESIGNS that installed one on a 22 Tacoma, I have reached out to CF they say it works. I called PAC audio they said it dint work. Apparently, you called and PAC AUDIO says it works, I guess they don't want to be held accountable if something gets fried on the installers part.

 

What PAC actually said is that it works only on the "28 pin" head unit. I did all my communication with PAC and Crutchfield over email so I can refer back to it.

 

i have the 23 OR with JBL, so it should work.

 

Nothing will get fried, so don’t worry about that. It’s all data connections so the pieces either talk or they don’t talk.

i say buy it on Crutchfield, hook it up, see if it works, and if it doesn’t, return it

 

Yeah, im have a local shop do the install, 3 wya up front tube sound deadening etc.

Thanks

 

So I installed the PAC Amp Pro last weekend and it works perfectly in my 2022 Limited. You do need to keep the stock JBL amp hooked up but I have that hidden behind my amp board. Sounds great now!!

 

Good news, im having my install done next week.

 

I have a 2023 taco, currently standing here w alpinE ilx-F511, radio replacement interface(PAC), RP4.2-TY13, all new speakers amp(non JBL model), I might've panicked and not read everything but it sounded kinda like ppl w 2023 a sol? Or am I commenting on the wrong thread?