2016 OR 'check charging system' then dies

Has anyone else had an issue with their '16 OR dying? A few days ago my "check charging system" light turned on with the "ABS" light when I was getting off the highway. When I pulled over and tried to start it again there was just a clicking sound.
Yesterday we replaced the battery and alternator and the battery still slowly died. Today we are going to ensure that all of the connections are correct but from what we saw yesterday they are.
Has anyone else come across this issue as well?

 

You either have a bad alternator or a circuit short to ground somewhere. Did you test the alternator before replacing it?

 

Oem new alternator or remanufactured? If reman you usually have to buy five before you get one that actually works.

 

Remanufactured, and yikes. Okay thanks!!

 

No, we just replaced it figuring that was the problem after determining it wasn't the battery.

 

If you are not buying OEM or getting a quality rebuild, NAPA is probably the best place to buy an alternator. You will pay more, but the Autozone, Oriellys, etc. are mostly all junk at a 'cheap' price.

 

Has the "Check Charging System" light gone out?

 

Gotcha, okay I will try to see what they have in stock

 

It just comes on right before the battery dies, and then the truck won't start again

 

You could also possibly have damaged wires from rodents chewing through them, good idea to look everything over too.

 

Gotcha, we're going check the wires over again just to make sure it all looks okay. Thank you!

 

Good luck, hope you can solve the problem.

 

Sure it isn't the recalled CPS?

 

I just checked and NHTSA says there are no recalls for my vehicle

 

Whenever I have had "battery " Issues .... the very first things I check are;

- Battery cable connections to battery - remove clean inspect.... see next.
-Check battery cables at battery end - acid can "wick" up the cables underneath the insulation and "rot" the cables. Check at Least a foot. Yank on the cable ends and run your fingers up can down the cable for soft spots, bumps, voids, etc.
- Check ALL the battery connections - Pos cable connection to Starter Solenoid, Negative to Engine/chassis ground, and ground cable between chassis and engine , etc, etc. REMOVE , clean, check and then replace - don't just "peek".
- Check the belt tension / idler pulley.
- Then check voltage at Battery posts. 12v Off and 2 + Min increase when the engine is running (just a gross check).


Then ! I'll start buying/changing/replacing stuff

JMO

 

If you determine it is the alternator, it’s way cheaper to just buy new brushes if you’re confident in soldering

 

Been a LONG time since I fix an ALt. But ... They didn't have brushes ... The failing parts usually were Bearings or 4 Way bridge rectifier (converts AC to DC with ripple). Brushes were used on Generators - long ago. Fixed a few of them too ... But I could be wrong ... It's usually the bridge if the connections and bearing are OK ... But things have changed soooo much since I took one apart .

 

I could be way off but that was how I fixed my 95 T4R. I haven’t had to do it since that truck

 

I will do these! Thanks for the tips

 

Lots of 3rd gens had faulty CPS while not recalled.

Might want to check to be sure.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/diy-check-replace-your-cps-sensor.497659