2014 TRD Sport Tacoma Access Cab v6 6-speed

Aw yeah....just picked up my 2014 TRD Sport Tacoma Access Cab v6 6-speed manual today.

Used (obviously) with 96K but new to me! I checked it out pretty good from top to bottom. A couple of minor issues which they resolved before I took delivery which included: low coolant, missing locking lug nut, new wipers. Only thing missing is a 2nd key dang it.

Going to be using it for hauling firewood/rounds most of the time.

Super stoked as this car had 1 owner, no "reported" accidents, and was looking pretty schweeeeeeeeeeeeet! Minimal surface rust on the welds mostly, frame looks great, a few minor dings and scratches, and newish tires.

The truck was definitely used by an electrician as there was an electrician's union sticker on it and the bed was full of electrical wire bits and connectors. You'd think the used car dealer would have at least vacuumed and swept all that stuff away but no.........Interior was pretty much spotless though.

I had to go to town the minute I got it home on the one bolt near the cab holding the tonneau cover in. That thing is a piece of junk. I finally got it cut out, removed the rails that came with the cover, and now have a nice clean bed. Will take the pressure washer out tomorrow most likely.

Took a wire wheel to the torx bed bolts, a little spritz of wd-40, and now they look new. Going to hit the bottom of the truck with Krown antirust spray (bought a case of 12 for the 4 cars). Already hit all the hinges and exposed metal with Krown as well.

It's raining hard now so I'll have to do that some other time. Have to check the tire pressures as well since the car seems to be pulling slightly to the left.

I have a few questions for y'all.

1. Should I change the transfer, tranny, clutch, front and rear diff oils? I think I should. Never had a 4wd vehicle before. I've changed the tranny (manual) oil in my 2006 Mini Cooper S (have 2 of them) with MTL. Will check the forum for fluid recommendations but feel free to opine. Will have to do my research on the transfer and diffs.

2. Brake pedal feels weird to me as it goes all the way to the floor with the car on. Driving wise it felt ok but since it was raining today I didn't feel like slamming on them. Maybe they need a bleed. Will check the pads in better weather. Just went through BOTH of my MINIs having their steel lines burst on me due to rust. Mine is the GP which has the underbodypanels for better aerodynamics and of course the one spot where the shield exposes the brake lines is where it rusted.

3. Anyone get the Sony XAV-AX5000 head unit besides the one poster? I want Android Auto because using the phone going back home from the dealer was not pleasant with the phone in the stock cupholders near the shifter.

4. Used my OBDII scanner and got a P1604 "Startability Malfunction" error. Did a quick search and it seems to be a weird code to pinpoint the cause. I'm guessing it's because the vehicle ran out of fuel at the dealer.

5. Going to be putting running boards/nerf bars for the kids (7, 10, and 12) so they need help getting in. More research needed there as well.

 

Sweet truck!

I’ll answer questions 1, 4 and 5

1. Yes, all of them.
4. Clear the code an Go. See what happens.
5. I got OEM. Niece and Nephew never complained about them.
I myself don’t use them, unless I stand on them to wash the top of the truck.

And welcome to TW!

 

Thanks!

I'm not 100% sure but does Toyota make the predator for the access cab or only the double cab?

 

I'd definitely change all the fluids. Who knows when or if they were ever done,. and have someone you trust look at the brakes.

Sounds like the dealer you bought it from isn't exactly too concerned with how their vehicles appear, even though they are in the business of selling them.

 

congrats!!
Too bad it's black...ask me how I know...

 

Yeah I think I shall. Must.......watch.......more......youtube.....videos...... heh heh

Hey, it's black just like Marty's Tacoma in BTTF! SEXY!

 

Today I went to town on the rust on the hitch receiver. Hit it with a wirebrush, wire wheel on a drill and some wd-40. Then I sprayed some Mar-hide rust reformer on it. After that I went over the entire underbody with Krown in a spray can and hit every metal spot I could see. Taking off the spare tire was key for two reasons - one I could get to spots hidden by the tire (i.e. the lowering mechanism was rusted pretty badly but broke free with a little force) and two the damn spare tire was only at 20 psi.

Cleaned up the bed, used Krown on all the door hinges and hooks, used the wire wheel on the tailpipe and got it decent looking compared to before, and also checked the breather foam filter. The filter turned out to be just fine. I wiped off a few pieces of debris but overall, for a 6-year old car with 96K, it was in almost perfect condition. I ordered the unifilter already so no harm in slapping that in.

Oh yeah spent 2 hours trying to remove some crazy adhesive on the back of the cab above the windows. Tried goo gone with a rag. No luck. WD-40 with a rag. No luck. Clay bar turned out to be the key. Still required a bunch of elbow grease but out it came.









Checked the air filter, looked clean. Checked cabin filter, tapped it a bunch to get rid of very little debris. Sprayed some 3m fabric protector all over the seats.

It was a good day. Looking forward to tomorrow. Going to be getting a bunch o' goodies including new headlight and fog light bulbs (led 6500K), led wedge bulbs for the license plate, interior lights, led map light bulb, license plate frames, weathertech floormats, and oil filter.

 

Oh and here's a video of me lowering the spare tire. A quick youtube video showed me how to do it. I just recorded the video to show the spots I hit with Krown under the spare.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/kpg6c9x0aguwgzg/2020-03-04 16.07.51.mp4?dl=0

 

I watch every Tacoma YouTube video that l can find

 

Welcome! I just did much of this last year on my 2012. Valvoline ATF Full Synthetic works just fine for Tranny. I used Mobil 1 synthetic for diffs. I still have yet to do anything with the bulbs or radio though. Still need to research the bulbs on this sight and the radio as well. Just not sure it's worth making the change when everything can be done with a phone connected to the amp anyway these days. I have an iPhone.

Anyone have suggestions on a wire wheel? I've gone through all my inherited ones and they are pretty trashed.

Is Krown similar to Fluid film or does it have different properties/uses? I'm not familiar with the product.

 

Thanks! I'm leaning towards Amsoil severe gear 75w90. When I lookup the 2014 v6 4wd Tacoma on their site it recommends their "Manual Transmission & Transaxle Gear Lube 75W-90" instead of the severe gear version. Anyone tried that in the tranny?

For wire wheels I just use the el cheapo ones that fit into a drill from HarborFreight. It $5 for the set here:

 

Changed the oil today. Mobil 1 5W-30.

Installed a fumoto valve.

Replaced reverse wedge bulbs with leds.

Replaced map light bulbs as well as the license plate bulbs too.

Replaced main hi/lo beam bulb (H4/HB2). Man that was a little tight. Did the passenger side first and unbolted the windshield washer fluid. The bulbs I got fit perfectly and I was still able to use the spring clip. I also used some dykes and snipped the dust cover to allow for the heatsink/fan which was quite a bit wider than the stock bulb. The fog lights bulbs arrive tomorrow.

I also ran over my brand new oil drain pan because I thought I had it..........and I didn't.

Another boo boo (a bit more major) is that when trying to get the damn wedge bulb out of the map lights, I took out the microphone panel in between the two maplights.....and Toyota of course decided to give about 2mm of slack......I ended up pulling the damn wires out of the little white harness that clips into the mic. And of course they don't sell that - they only sell the entire overhead console for $350. So I ended up ordering a Sony XAV-AX5000 headunit because it wasn't even worth it to pay about $80 for a used console.......$425 and I get hands free Android Auto right on the display.











Here you can see what it looks like when the taillight is off. And this is how a car starts to rust from the inside out. I hit both sides with the Krown as well.

 

How are you getting hands free for $425? I’m looking at the AX5000 as well with the wheel kit at Crutchfield $350+$100 for the kit.

 

$350 for the Sony. $75 for the metra kit and Crux adapters, free shipping, and I had $35 worth of gift card balance due to my previous 3 stereo purchases.... Which happened to cover the tax of $35.60!

 

And I bought it from Crutchfield as well....

 

The $35 gift card explains it. Congrats!
Please post pics of your install for the radio. I can't seem to find any on this particular radio and will be doing the same thing but on a 2012.

 

That adhesive above the back window, Almost looks like one of those visor things were on there at one time and probably started to fall off. Original owner probably took it off but didnt take the time to clean up.

Sweet looking truck though. Black TRD Sports were always my favorite ones!

 

Thanks! I will definitely post pics. I got these awesome shrink wrap connectors for all the wiring that you heat up with a heat gun/hair dryer and it melts a tiny ring of solder on the bare wire. No fuss no muss!

Thanks! I'm research side steps for the kiddies and I'm pretty sure I'm going to go with the Go Rhino Dominator D2 in black powder coat. I'm a little miffed that they don't offer the powder coat with an underlying stainless construction as it's only mild steel. Being that I'm in the worst part of the country for roads (just outside of NYC), these bars are going to get hit with debris and get rusty in no time at all. I had happen almost immediately on my old '97 Rav4. Also, they don't provide stainless hardware. Since these aren't meant to function as rock sliders I don't know why they don't include stainless hardware. That said, I'm going to spray some Rustoleum Bed Liner on it before putting it on the car and then I'll hit the bolts after installing with more Krown anti-rust. I really hope this Krown stuff works. I'd like to keep this vehicle (and my other 3) for a very long time.

 

Nice truck i wish mine was a 6 speed.if you want to bring the paint up invest in a DA polisher you will get amazing results in afternoon. Good luck with it

 

Nice truck! And since you asked, here's a couple of thoughts.

First, you seem to have a lot of faith in WD-40 and Krown to prevent corrosion. WD-40 does almost nothing to prevent corrosion other than displacing water. The solvent carrier evaporates pretty quickly and the oil that's left disappears shortly afterwards. Krown is much better, but both products work far better with a good layer of something more permanent - like primer and paint - beneath them. Many folks make the mistake of removing rust with a wire wheel, not knowing that they're also removing any remaining surface finish with the rust. This just insures faster future corrosion. So if you do use a wire wheel, make sure you remove / neutralize all of the rust, then re-apply a permanent surface coating. After that, you can apply something like Fluid Film or Crown as an extra layer of protection.

As for LED headlight and fog light bulbs, beware. Truth be told, they're more hype than performance. Although many folks take pictures that appear to show "brighter" lights after installing LED bulbs, much of what is showing up is nothing more than glare that will just bother oncoming drivers to no end. And cutting the rubber seal for your headlights will eventually lead to moisture getting into the housings and running them. I've been through all of this with my son on his car - may times. Here's a post from our Lighting sub-forum on LED bulbs:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/why-leds-should-not-be-run-in-halogen-reflectors.454371/

Good luck with your new truck!