2013 P2440 & P2442 Options to Fix

I have a 2013 TX Pro I bought used two weeks ago that started throwing P2440 and P2442 codes. They're described as "AIR System Switching Valve Stuck Open Bank 1/2" This seems to limit throttle position so I took it to my local independent mechanic for a $100 diagnostic and I'm currently waiting on the results.

From my research, the AIR system is also called the secondary air injection system (SAIS) and it runs during cold starts to improve emissions. It consists of an air pump on the passenger side of the engine bay that sends pressurized air through two valves bolted to the engine and then to the exhaust upstream of the cat.

It looks like there are three options to solve this problem. Luckily for me, I don't live in an emissions-regulated area, not that it would matter since "I only use the vehicle off-road."

1. Shell out $1500+ for a replacement valve or pump depending on the diagnostic results. (DIY thread: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-air-injection-system-p2440-and-p2442.480436/)
   
2. Buy a kit from Hewitt-Tech.com that emulates the SAIS (https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...pass-kit-2012-4-0-updated-21-oct-2016.394629/)
   
3. Buy an HP Tuner and some block-off plates (https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/secondary-air-injection-system-removal-diy-sais.655470/)

I am a novice mechanic and doing any of these jobs myself would be pushing my skills, but if it saves me $1000, I'll consider it for sure. So I have a few questions:

1. If my valves are truly stuck open as the codes say and I do not delete them in options 2 or 3, will that risk breaking anything or result in poor performance?
2. For option 2, how do I know if the pressure sensors on my valves are damaged and I need the $200 pressure sensor add-on?
3. For option 3, would I need to buy anything other than their MPVI2+ interface tool? It's not clear to me how their credit system works and if I need that to just disable a few specific CEL codes.

Thanks!

 

...or if you can stomach taking it to a dealership, the Customer Support Program ZHA has been elevated to Special Service Campaign 20TC01 as outlined in this thread: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/secondary-air-injection-system-p2440-and-p2442.370792/

The topics get buried quickly - this is an active forum! I'm in the middle of this process and originally planned on a ~$1500 repair. Now Toyota is replacing the air switching valves at no cost on any affected Tacoma (with the exact same components, though).

 

Thanks, but it looks like that Special Service Campaign 20TC01 is only for 2012 Tacomas (link) and I have a 2013. You say it applies to "any affected Tacoma"... have you heard of Toyota applying this service campaign to other model years?

 

Oh dang, you're right! Mah bad. I have not heard of other model years being covered. If they're replacing a faulty component that is also installed on different model years, it may be worth contacting Toyota about a repair allowance for a 2013? My "any affected Tacoma" was an imprecise choice of words.

 

I ran this in my Tundra previously with good results once I started getting codes for emissions. I'd imagine their kit for the Tacoma would work similarly as well.

https://hewitt-tech.com/store/index.php?l=product_detail&p=82

 

I heard back from the mechanic this morning and they initially quoted me $2,800 to replace the SAIS pump and valves! They said the valves were definitely stuck open but they could not determine whether the pump was bad too, so they recommended replacing them both (which is stupid, just replace the valves and then see if the pump works, but whatever. Wth was the $100 diag for??). Also, the labor was two hours on the valves and one on the pump, which indicated that their part prices were obscene - I can get the valves for $550 through the local dealer and they were quoting me $880. Unfortunately, they would not allow me to purchase the part and let them install it, so I'll have to take my truck somewhere else. Shame.

 

Yes, that is definitely an option I'm considering. Do you know if I could leave my SAIS valves in place even though they're stuck open, or would I have to remove them?

EDIT: I am thinking that if the valves are stuck open, then they should be either replaced or removed. This is because the SAIS valves are check valves, which should allow pressurized air to enter the exhaust but not allow exhaust gases to enter the SAIS system. If these valves are stuck, then exhaust gases will enter the SAIS system. Since exhaust gases are very hot, they could damage the rest of the SAIS system or leak into the engine bay.

 

You can certainly disable the whole system with HPTuners, but you'd still want blockoff plates once removed.
I currently have the Hewitt bypass kit on my truck, but I don't have the stock manifold to worry about blocking off. I still have the electronics connected, because allegedly you can't disconnect anything or you'll get the CEL. With HPTuners you can set the monitors for those specific codes to always be ready, and toss the whole SAIS in the trash where it belongs.

TL;DR- go with HPTuners.

 

I pulled all of that crap out of my truck and installed block off plates and retuned with HP. Mine is a 2013 so I didn’t want to deal with that as a reliability issue

 

I decided to keep the truck stock and replace the SAIS valve. Since my usual shop won’t let me supply the part myself and the dealer estimated $900 labor to install it, I purchased the valve (and two gaskets) from the dealer then scheduled a mobile mechanic for 8/19 who estimates $200 labor.

Also ordered a unifilter for the pump on Amazon.

 

Update: the mobile mechanic came a few days after my last post and installed the valve for $100 which was great. Also installed the Unifilter. However, the same p2440 and p2442 codes showed up again less than a month later, on 9/7/21, while I was on a trip. (Luckily I had my scan tool with me so I could clear the codes and not be forced to limp home on 25% throttle.)

Does anyone know if that SAIS valve relies on pressure from the SAIS pump to close? Maybe it's the pump that broke and is not shutting the valve after the engine heats up. Does anyone know of a way to test the SAIS pump?

 

Just following up on this, I have lived with the intermittent CEL for several months and looking into taking action on it again. The Hewitt Tech option seems easy enough to do and I didn't realize before that it comes with block-off plates that you can just slide in without even disconnecting the air pipes from the valves.

 

Ive been running the Hewitt unit on my 2.7L for about a year now and it has been great for me. I would recommend if you’re on the fence

 

Reviving my old thread with an update - I had the Hewitt module installed by a mobile mechanic in February 2022 and disappointingly it did not resolve the issue. I had been living with the problem and clearing codes when necessary until recently when the CEL started turning on more frequently (like every trip).

So I contacted Hewitt Tech about it and they've been very responsive. They sent out another module for me to try but unfortunately that didn't resolve the issue either. Now they're saying that the pressure sensors might be damaged and I should buy two of their pressure sensor replacements at $225 a piece which I'm not excited about. However, reading closer at the product description of the pressure sensor add-on page (link) says:
"Damage to these sensors can happen when the vehicle is operated with the air switching valves stuck open which lets the hot exhaust to reach the pressure sensors. It is more common for this sort of damage to cause the pressure sensor to read as a valve stuck open code incorrectly instead of being damaged bad enough to cause a Pressure Sensor Circuit Code. This can cause valve stuck open codes even after installing the bypass kit and block off plates."

This seems to describe my situation pretty well so I'll give it a shot. This has cost me over $1200 already plus I haven't been able to lend my truck out to friends & family so I feel pretty annoyed at this problem.

 

Was thinking of Hewitt unit but, the thought of having to buy the sensor for another 200$, just turned me on to the HPtuner route for the same price.

 

@FreudianSip I wanted to follow up on this thread and see if you installed the Pressure Sensor addon. As you mentioned, any time you clear the codes and continue driving with "Valve Stuck Open" fault codes you run the risk of exposing the Pressure Sensor inside the Air Switching Valve to exhaust. The heat from the exhaust can damage the sensor and then our Bypass Kit would require the Pressure Sensor Kit addon. Below I have provided a link to a recent thread for anyone coming across this in the future. Looking forward to hearing from you.

What Do My Secondary Air Injection Error Codes Mean?
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/what-do-my-secondary-air-injection-error-codes-mean.780848/

How to Fix Secondary Air Injection System?
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-do-you-fix-the-secondary-air-injection-system.780849/